New and seeking info.
13-Dec-2007, 07:32 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 4
New and seeking info.
I was trying to get some info on B16a2 Motors.
I wanted to know
1. What head is best for them (performance wise)
2. Will this motor handle a turbo if it has less than 100,000km's on it?
3. Would a turbo b16 make my Civic or a Crx Quick ( under 14's )?
Thanks
I wanted to know
1. What head is best for them (performance wise)
2. Will this motor handle a turbo if it has less than 100,000km's on it?
3. Would a turbo b16 make my Civic or a Crx Quick ( under 14's )?
Thanks
14-Dec-2007, 12:26 PM
#6
Inactive
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Where my car is.
Posts: 5,460
Search the forums for new/used/rebuilt turbos for good prices.
For your other questions about cost etc...To do it right, your looking at a few grand when all said and done for a decent street setup with a stock b16.
It depend of course, are you planning on going for huge power (500hp+) or a more streetable setup (200-300hp)?
And just so you know, a crx with a stock b16 with SiR tranny would probably dip you into the 14's with simple bolt on's
For your other questions about cost etc...To do it right, your looking at a few grand when all said and done for a decent street setup with a stock b16.
It depend of course, are you planning on going for huge power (500hp+) or a more streetable setup (200-300hp)?
And just so you know, a crx with a stock b16 with SiR tranny would probably dip you into the 14's with simple bolt on's
Last edited by MPR; 14-Dec-2007 at 12:31 PM.
14-Dec-2007, 11:31 PM
#8
the head is great. the B16A2 is a great engine.
however, for a turbo application, and given your 350 hp goals and your highway runner application ... it might make more sense to go B18B or B20.
when you force air into an engine (under compression rather than atmospheric pressure) the head becomes less of a concern since volumetric efficiency is directly affected externally.
at 350 whp it's hard to imagine a stock internal anything holding up regardless of how great it is. you're proposing to more than double the horsepower of a normally aspirated engine. this will not sit well with the pistons and connecting rods in the long run.
what I recommend is a larger displacement nonvtec engine. you're probably going to be looking at rougly one bar of boost, possibly even more... a lower compression engine might be better to get you off to a good start. in addition, the initial cost of the engine will be cheaper, freeing up some money for a 3 bar map and tuning which will be crucial to the long term success of your project. you'll also most likely need to seek out some Eagle rods and forged pistons, plus ARP hardware (head and conn rod bolts). down the line (on the exit side) spend good money on a really great turbo manifold, don't cheap out on the manifold and turbo. also at that power level, the combustion chamber conditions will be such that the ignition will need upgrading with an MSD setup. You will also need a minimum of 550cc injectors.
the whole project properly done will end up costing roughly $6000-7000 by the time you figure price of the swap, mounts, clutch/flywheel, new axles, machine shop time, assembly, internal parts, ignition, turbo and manifold, injectors, intercooler and piping, exhaust work, blow off valve, wastegate, oil feed setup and drain, and various bits to freshen up the engine (waterpump, tbelt, bearings, seals, possibly oilpump depending on mileage of the engine)... etc. also at that power level the open differential will become a problem, but I do recommend either putting together a hybrid tranny or running an LS tranny (since you say you wanna build a highway terror). but given that you want this inside your 91 DX, all cable trannies will prolly need some freshening up, which is like an additional $1500-2000 for new synchros and ****.
however, for a turbo application, and given your 350 hp goals and your highway runner application ... it might make more sense to go B18B or B20.
when you force air into an engine (under compression rather than atmospheric pressure) the head becomes less of a concern since volumetric efficiency is directly affected externally.
at 350 whp it's hard to imagine a stock internal anything holding up regardless of how great it is. you're proposing to more than double the horsepower of a normally aspirated engine. this will not sit well with the pistons and connecting rods in the long run.
what I recommend is a larger displacement nonvtec engine. you're probably going to be looking at rougly one bar of boost, possibly even more... a lower compression engine might be better to get you off to a good start. in addition, the initial cost of the engine will be cheaper, freeing up some money for a 3 bar map and tuning which will be crucial to the long term success of your project. you'll also most likely need to seek out some Eagle rods and forged pistons, plus ARP hardware (head and conn rod bolts). down the line (on the exit side) spend good money on a really great turbo manifold, don't cheap out on the manifold and turbo. also at that power level, the combustion chamber conditions will be such that the ignition will need upgrading with an MSD setup. You will also need a minimum of 550cc injectors.
the whole project properly done will end up costing roughly $6000-7000 by the time you figure price of the swap, mounts, clutch/flywheel, new axles, machine shop time, assembly, internal parts, ignition, turbo and manifold, injectors, intercooler and piping, exhaust work, blow off valve, wastegate, oil feed setup and drain, and various bits to freshen up the engine (waterpump, tbelt, bearings, seals, possibly oilpump depending on mileage of the engine)... etc. also at that power level the open differential will become a problem, but I do recommend either putting together a hybrid tranny or running an LS tranny (since you say you wanna build a highway terror). but given that you want this inside your 91 DX, all cable trannies will prolly need some freshening up, which is like an additional $1500-2000 for new synchros and ****.
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