New rear brakes very noisy??
#1
New rear brakes very noisy??
I just installed a set of CMX drilled rotors and some Wagner pads on my 02 Sir. These are for the rear. After fighting and cursing for a couple of hours, rotor screws wouldn't budge ( trip to store for impact driver ) and then to get my brakes disassembled only to find that the suppler from Markham sent me pads 3 times to large for my setup. So put old pads on new rotor so I can get in the car once again and off to Parts Source for the Wagner pads, some disc brake quiet and the tool to screw in the caliper piston. Come back and get the whole setup installed. There was no real hardware on the old pads and none included with the new ones. I just sort of put the pads where the sit against the rotor face, after putting some blue sticky on back of pad beforehand and seated the caliper where it supposed to go. Looks way nicer than the setup that was on there previously. Functionality, not so great. Oh the car stops great with no vibration felt but noise all over the place. Mild scraping under cruise, increasing with speed and squeal under brake application that goes away just as you come to a stop. The old pads had some sort of disintegrating rubber crap on their backs, is that needed? Any Honda techs with some advice on a better way to install this setup. I need help, I can't drive around with brakes that sound like this. Should I try a different pad?
Pat.
Pat.
#2
Its making noise while cruising? Scraping noise?
Also which pads did you buy? The cheaper ones have a crappy mix of materials in it that will cause your brakes to be loud.
Did you tighten the caliper bracket well? Double check If nothing is loose.
Also which pads did you buy? The cheaper ones have a crappy mix of materials in it that will cause your brakes to be loud.
Did you tighten the caliper bracket well? Double check If nothing is loose.
#3
Yeah kind of like the brakes are dragging a bit under cruise conditions. Watching a video online it mentioned lubing up the area that the pad sits on the caliper mount. Didn't do that. Didn't know I had to position the X in the caliper piston to match some pin on the inboard pad either. I may disassemble in the morning and see if lubing those areas and making sure the pin is in the X helps the situation. How do I lubricate the slides? I don't want to harm the rubber covers.
Pat.
Pat.
#4
oh and yes wagner pads were the cheapies at 23 bucks...maybe I can get the supplier in markham to ship me some good ones for all my grief with having the wrong set delvered the first time.
Pat.
Pat.
#5
Almost sounds like you put a pad in backwards (backing plate against the rotor) but I highly doubt you did that.
Without hearing/seeing it in person it is difficult to diagnose.
I suggest you take it apart again and investigate. There might be something you overlooked.
Check to make sure you didn't accidentally bend one of the thin metal shields. Might be possible you bumped part of the shield and it is scrapping against the rotor. Did that myself once, back in the day. I've also seen stones get kicked up and stuck between the shield and rotor...makes a horrible sound...lol.
Without hearing/seeing it in person it is difficult to diagnose.
I suggest you take it apart again and investigate. There might be something you overlooked.
Check to make sure you didn't accidentally bend one of the thin metal shields. Might be possible you bumped part of the shield and it is scrapping against the rotor. Did that myself once, back in the day. I've also seen stones get kicked up and stuck between the shield and rotor...makes a horrible sound...lol.
#6
No shield is OK its not that loud...with windows up and radio on you can't hear it.. Pads are definitely friction side in...LOL... I am surprised there is no real hardware to secure these pads to the caliper. I am hoping some grease on the slide area and doing the slide pins will help. Do I really have to line the pin up on the back of the inboard pad with a slot in the piston? How does that work, doesn't that piston twist as it extends? Wouldn't that be impossible if one of the slots was affixed to a pin on the pad? Am I missing something here?
Pat.
Pat.
#7
Are you sure they gave you the correct pads? If the piston is the type that has to be turned to be fully retracted, then the pad shouldn't have a pin that lines up with the notch in the piston because the piston needs to be able to turn as the pad wears down. Otherwise if the piston can be just squeezed straight back into the caliper then yes, line up the notch with the pin on the pad.
Most pads come with a thin metal shim plate on the backing of the pad where the piston or caliper contacts the pad to reduce vibration and noise. If the pads you have don't have that, it could very well be why they are so noisy.
Most pads come with a thin metal shim plate on the backing of the pad where the piston or caliper contacts the pad to reduce vibration and noise. If the pads you have don't have that, it could very well be why they are so noisy.
#8
Took apart the whole assembly this morning... slides seemed good but I lubed them anyways. Removed caliper mount brackets and cleaned up the metal area that the pads sit on. Lubed that area.. put lots of blue brake goop on back of pads and reinstalled the whole thing. I don't see a pin on the inboard pad. I have to drive to school today so maybe a nice run to Hamilton will work out the kinks. Driver side does seem to drag a little more than the passenger. I hope no caliper problem there. Rubbers around the pistons look old and ugly but no leakage so I am hoping for the best.. Supplier is sending me some new pads to replace the wrong ones they sent me earlier. CMX power plus semi-metallic. If noise remains I may try those ones and see if any difference. Must say now that I have done this a couple of times, the time factor has gone way down. Thanks for all your help on this forum.
Pat.
Pat.
#9
I was going to say maybe you have a caliper on the way out. After a nice run touch the wheel lug nuts (be careful because they might be hot)...If they are really hot your brakes are dragging and you probably have a semi-seized caliper.
#14
No question is a dumb question.
Did a quick search on this and it says to loosen the e-brake adjuster when replacing the pads, then re-adjust after the new pads are installed.
#15
Redid whole operation today....took everything apart..sanded off all rust....emery clothed the hardware...anti-seize on everything...looks great..calipers went over pads without resorting to force...now lets see if it works!!!! I may loosen off the e-brake cable as well....but removing center console can be a PITA..
Thanks, Pat
Thanks, Pat
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