Clutch is slipping...need advice
02-Nov-2007, 12:14 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 173
Clutch is slipping...need advice
Hey guys, well my clutch just started slipping, barely. It's perfectly fine when I start off, it doesn't slip then, but if say I was in second at 3k RPM and then I gave a good amount of gas, at around 3.5k rpm it would just slip.
1) I know you can't tell for sure, but any APPROXIMATE idea of how long it will last? week? month? 3 months?
2) Does anyone know how much it would cost to get everything done at the mechanic? I'm estimating $150 for OEM clutch, $50 to resurface flywheel, and around 3 hours labor, so 65x3 = 195. So basically 400 plus tax. Does this sound right? Please post here if you have any hookups or know of a good shop that can do it for a good price......
3) I was told that it's good practice to always resurface the flywheels when doing a clutch, is this true? Anything else I should do while getting a clutch done?
4) Should I go OEM? I don't want to spend a lot of money and I don't drive the car hard at all, I baby it, so I don't need a performance clutch but I want it to last..
5) Any cheaper ways to do this? The car is basically an A-B car and not by "baby" where I want everything 100% mint and brand new. Someone told me it's much cheaper to get a rebuilt clutch than a new one and it's basically the same thing, what do u think of that?
6) Can someone post a link to a DIY guide on how to do a clutch on a Civic? I have friends who are good with cars who can help me with it I just want to have a look at a step by step to see if it's worth doing yourself or not.
6) b) If you have experience doing a clutch job on a Civic please post your experience about whether it's worth it or not!
It's a 92 stock civic 4 door with the 1.5L.
PS. I'm just curious, the car has 230k on it (bought it with 200k last december), do you guys think it's the stock clutch in it still?
Thank yoU!!!!!!!
1) I know you can't tell for sure, but any APPROXIMATE idea of how long it will last? week? month? 3 months?
2) Does anyone know how much it would cost to get everything done at the mechanic? I'm estimating $150 for OEM clutch, $50 to resurface flywheel, and around 3 hours labor, so 65x3 = 195. So basically 400 plus tax. Does this sound right? Please post here if you have any hookups or know of a good shop that can do it for a good price......
3) I was told that it's good practice to always resurface the flywheels when doing a clutch, is this true? Anything else I should do while getting a clutch done?
4) Should I go OEM? I don't want to spend a lot of money and I don't drive the car hard at all, I baby it, so I don't need a performance clutch but I want it to last..
5) Any cheaper ways to do this? The car is basically an A-B car and not by "baby" where I want everything 100% mint and brand new. Someone told me it's much cheaper to get a rebuilt clutch than a new one and it's basically the same thing, what do u think of that?
6) Can someone post a link to a DIY guide on how to do a clutch on a Civic? I have friends who are good with cars who can help me with it I just want to have a look at a step by step to see if it's worth doing yourself or not.
6) b) If you have experience doing a clutch job on a Civic please post your experience about whether it's worth it or not!
It's a 92 stock civic 4 door with the 1.5L.
PS. I'm just curious, the car has 230k on it (bought it with 200k last december), do you guys think it's the stock clutch in it still?
Thank yoU!!!!!!!
02-Nov-2007, 12:59 AM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 173
Can you really blame me with the way the site is set up?
From the home page you only see "Performance/Suspension"... I didn't even know that that section had sub forums as I didn't click on it because "Performance/Suspension" doesn't seem like a section that has anything to do with a slipping OEM clutch and advice on it.
If the "transmission" sub forum was visible form the homepage then I would see it and post there, but I'm sure most will agree that someone looking to post a problem regarding routine maintenance of a clutch does not assume the "Performance/Suspension" section will have what he's looking for in it, and it's unreasonable for someone to look under every section in case there is a random "Transmission" sub forum somewhere....
Even the description doesn't mention anything about trannys there: Engine tech, forced induction, springs, shocks, brakes, tires, etc.
Maybe label the section "Engine/Drivetrain" so make it more general rather than just Performance and Suspension..
From the home page you only see "Performance/Suspension"... I didn't even know that that section had sub forums as I didn't click on it because "Performance/Suspension" doesn't seem like a section that has anything to do with a slipping OEM clutch and advice on it.
If the "transmission" sub forum was visible form the homepage then I would see it and post there, but I'm sure most will agree that someone looking to post a problem regarding routine maintenance of a clutch does not assume the "Performance/Suspension" section will have what he's looking for in it, and it's unreasonable for someone to look under every section in case there is a random "Transmission" sub forum somewhere....
Even the description doesn't mention anything about trannys there: Engine tech, forced induction, springs, shocks, brakes, tires, etc.
Maybe label the section "Engine/Drivetrain" so make it more general rather than just Performance and Suspension..
02-Nov-2007, 09:41 AM
#4
Guest
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 580
Well I don t know how much time is left on the clutch but your estimate is a little low.... maybe more like 550 - 600 + taxs...
I did my myself and it was 210 tax in with mechanic discount for a napa performance clutch and 60 cash to resurface the flywheel again with mechanic discount... Im not a mech but luckily I know a few
whether or not it is the original clutch is hard to tell. it could be, but it would mean that it was beaten on. someone that goes easy on their car should be able to have a clutch last at least 400,000 KM. If it was replaced than it was either an ebay clutch or not installed properly.
if you do get an OEM Honda clutch installed for 400 please post the shop as I think we could all gain from that info.
I did my myself and it was 210 tax in with mechanic discount for a napa performance clutch and 60 cash to resurface the flywheel again with mechanic discount... Im not a mech but luckily I know a few
whether or not it is the original clutch is hard to tell. it could be, but it would mean that it was beaten on. someone that goes easy on their car should be able to have a clutch last at least 400,000 KM. If it was replaced than it was either an ebay clutch or not installed properly.
if you do get an OEM Honda clutch installed for 400 please post the shop as I think we could all gain from that info.
Last edited by Midori; 02-Nov-2007 at 09:51 AM.
02-Nov-2007, 10:08 AM
#5
Guest
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 580
oh wow you have a lot of questions. I m a big fan of the do it yourself attitude so here is the DIY clutch change.
to do your clutch all the work is on the pass side in these steps. remove the axle nut, jack up the car, remove tire, remove lower ball joint nut and pin, CRACK it away from the lower control arm, slide the knuckle away from the axle, drain the tranny fluid, pry out the axle then remove the starter, clutch slave cylinder and the one plug (i think) connected to the tranny, remove the Bi@tch pin and unbolt the shift linkage. put support under the engine like a jack and a 2x4 on the oil pan. unbolt the tranny mount(s) unbolt the bell housing, pry it off the engine, remove tranny from car. (you might have to remove both axels... i did mine during a swap so i don t know about this part...
Expect a good 5 hours, hard parts is the lower ball joint go to CT rent a ball joint tool free as long as you don t break it.
at this point the pressure plate, clutch, and flywheel will be revealed and they ll be attached to the motor. unbolt all three parts by jamming the fly wheel, get the flywheel resurfaced and reassemble.
installing the clutch is a little tricky you ll need a specially tool to make sure that it is perfectly centered with the splines otherwise it will wear a lot faster. (spline tool)
In total I would say its a one long day job 10 hours or two days at 5 hours and in the end will cost you about the same or more because you ll need tools and you might break parts doing it.
If I have missed a step please feel free to correct me.
to do your clutch all the work is on the pass side in these steps. remove the axle nut, jack up the car, remove tire, remove lower ball joint nut and pin, CRACK it away from the lower control arm, slide the knuckle away from the axle, drain the tranny fluid, pry out the axle then remove the starter, clutch slave cylinder and the one plug (i think) connected to the tranny, remove the Bi@tch pin and unbolt the shift linkage. put support under the engine like a jack and a 2x4 on the oil pan. unbolt the tranny mount(s) unbolt the bell housing, pry it off the engine, remove tranny from car. (you might have to remove both axels... i did mine during a swap so i don t know about this part...
Expect a good 5 hours, hard parts is the lower ball joint go to CT rent a ball joint tool free as long as you don t break it.
at this point the pressure plate, clutch, and flywheel will be revealed and they ll be attached to the motor. unbolt all three parts by jamming the fly wheel, get the flywheel resurfaced and reassemble.
installing the clutch is a little tricky you ll need a specially tool to make sure that it is perfectly centered with the splines otherwise it will wear a lot faster. (spline tool)
In total I would say its a one long day job 10 hours or two days at 5 hours and in the end will cost you about the same or more because you ll need tools and you might break parts doing it.
If I have missed a step please feel free to correct me.
Last edited by Midori; 06-Nov-2007 at 05:20 PM.
04-Nov-2007, 06:52 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Pfaff
Posts: 1,560
Hey guys, well my clutch just started slipping, barely. It's perfectly fine when I start off, it doesn't slip then, but if say I was in second at 3k RPM and then I gave a good amount of gas, at around 3.5k rpm it would just slip.
1) I know you can't tell for sure, but any APPROXIMATE idea of how long it will last? week? month? 3 months?
2) Does anyone know how much it would cost to get everything done at the mechanic? I'm estimating $150 for OEM clutch, $50 to resurface flywheel, and around 3 hours labor, so 65x3 = 195. So basically 400 plus tax. Does this sound right? Please post here if you have any hookups or know of a good shop that can do it for a good price......
3) I was told that it's good practice to always resurface the flywheels when doing a clutch, is this true? Anything else I should do while getting a clutch done?
4) Should I go OEM? I don't want to spend a lot of money and I don't drive the car hard at all, I baby it, so I don't need a performance clutch but I want it to last..
5) Any cheaper ways to do this? The car is basically an A-B car and not by "baby" where I want everything 100% mint and brand new. Someone told me it's much cheaper to get a rebuilt clutch than a new one and it's basically the same thing, what do u think of that?
6) Can someone post a link to a DIY guide on how to do a clutch on a Civic? I have friends who are good with cars who can help me with it I just want to have a look at a step by step to see if it's worth doing yourself or not.
6) b) If you have experience doing a clutch job on a Civic please post your experience about whether it's worth it or not!
It's a 92 stock civic 4 door with the 1.5L.
PS. I'm just curious, the car has 230k on it (bought it with 200k last december), do you guys think it's the stock clutch in it still?
Thank yoU!!!!!!!
1) I know you can't tell for sure, but any APPROXIMATE idea of how long it will last? week? month? 3 months?
2) Does anyone know how much it would cost to get everything done at the mechanic? I'm estimating $150 for OEM clutch, $50 to resurface flywheel, and around 3 hours labor, so 65x3 = 195. So basically 400 plus tax. Does this sound right? Please post here if you have any hookups or know of a good shop that can do it for a good price......
3) I was told that it's good practice to always resurface the flywheels when doing a clutch, is this true? Anything else I should do while getting a clutch done?
4) Should I go OEM? I don't want to spend a lot of money and I don't drive the car hard at all, I baby it, so I don't need a performance clutch but I want it to last..
5) Any cheaper ways to do this? The car is basically an A-B car and not by "baby" where I want everything 100% mint and brand new. Someone told me it's much cheaper to get a rebuilt clutch than a new one and it's basically the same thing, what do u think of that?
6) Can someone post a link to a DIY guide on how to do a clutch on a Civic? I have friends who are good with cars who can help me with it I just want to have a look at a step by step to see if it's worth doing yourself or not.
6) b) If you have experience doing a clutch job on a Civic please post your experience about whether it's worth it or not!
It's a 92 stock civic 4 door with the 1.5L.
PS. I'm just curious, the car has 230k on it (bought it with 200k last december), do you guys think it's the stock clutch in it still?
Thank yoU!!!!!!!
2. Your way off. If its a d-series LIST price is about $280 for a clutch kit, to resurface a flywheel, again list price is about $60, labour is 4.7. My shop is 83$ an hour so 5hr x 83 +340 x1.15= your answer. Plus fluid (20-35$)
3. Yes, change the pilot and throwout bearing, but that comes with the kit.
4. No need to go OEM..
5. I've never dealt with a rebuilt clutch before. Personally I would do it if its way cheaper..
6. Doing a clutch is not very easy. It involves atleast two SKILLED people, especially on the floor. Last clutch I did on the floor took forever because it wouldnt line up and we were both very tired. In the shop it takes me about 30 seconds to line up the tranny. So personally I would pay the labour if I wasnt a mechanic, but thats your call. From rusty axle nuts, stupid bitch pins, no air tools doing a clutch on the floor is not fun at all, especially if you've never done it before.
And if you do it, i recommend threadlocker on the flywheel and PP bolts and torque to spec. 87ft lbs for the flywheel, and 27? for the PP i believe.
04-Nov-2007, 06:54 PM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Pfaff
Posts: 1,560
oh wow you have a lot of questions. I m a big fan of the do it yourself attitude so here is the DIY clutch change.
to do your clutch all the work is on the pass side in these steps. remove the axle nut, jack up the car, remove tire, remove lower ball joint, slide the knuckle away from the axle, drain the tranny fluid, pry out the axle then remove the starter, clutch slave cylinder and the one plug (i think) connected to the tranny, unbolt the bell housing, pry it off the engine, remove tranny from car. (you might have to remove both axels... i idd mine during a swap so i don t know about this part...
Expect a good 5 hours, hard parts is the lower ball joint go to CT rent a ball joint tool free as long as you don t break it.
at this point the pressure plate, clutch, and flywheel will be revealed and they ll be attached to the motor. unbolt all three parts, get the flywheel resurfaced and reassemble.
installing the clutch is a little tricky you ll need a specially tool to make sure that it is perfectly centered with the splines otherwise it will wear a lot faster. (spline tool)
In total I would say its a one long day job 10 hours or two days at 5 hours and in the end will cost you about the same or more because you ll need tools and you might break parts doing it.
If I have missed a step please feel free to correct me.
to do your clutch all the work is on the pass side in these steps. remove the axle nut, jack up the car, remove tire, remove lower ball joint, slide the knuckle away from the axle, drain the tranny fluid, pry out the axle then remove the starter, clutch slave cylinder and the one plug (i think) connected to the tranny, unbolt the bell housing, pry it off the engine, remove tranny from car. (you might have to remove both axels... i idd mine during a swap so i don t know about this part...
Expect a good 5 hours, hard parts is the lower ball joint go to CT rent a ball joint tool free as long as you don t break it.
at this point the pressure plate, clutch, and flywheel will be revealed and they ll be attached to the motor. unbolt all three parts, get the flywheel resurfaced and reassemble.
installing the clutch is a little tricky you ll need a specially tool to make sure that it is perfectly centered with the splines otherwise it will wear a lot faster. (spline tool)
In total I would say its a one long day job 10 hours or two days at 5 hours and in the end will cost you about the same or more because you ll need tools and you might break parts doing it.
If I have missed a step please feel free to correct me.
1) you dont have to remove the balljoint, just crack it free
2)That's probably one of the easiest parts.
And 10 hours? I'd say it takes 2 hours to get it out, 1.5-2 hours to patch it all up with two guys working on it.
05-Nov-2007, 10:15 AM
#8
Guest
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 580
The lower ball joint are difficult to separate (from the lower control arm) or CRACK them away. I have read countless threads about people just banging on the lower control arm with any without success. On honda-tech there is a sticky on the issue and several resolution but its still a common problem...
I know your a mech and all but Im not....2 hours... that give me enough time to jack the car up, drink a beer and get my tool
I know your a mech and all but Im not....2 hours... that give me enough time to jack the car up, drink a beer and get my tool
05-Nov-2007, 05:58 PM
#11
you need a nice mini sledge, about 4 lbs ought to do it. and you hit the steering knuckle, not the lca. usually works. if it doesn't work after 4-5 solid hits, then I resort to a 3 jaw puller, 100% success rate just a lil tricky to set up. guaranteed no damage.
05-Nov-2007, 11:21 PM
#15
I use a 4 inch puller, not the 7 inch. i loosen the LBJ nut and almost get it off all the way, then I thread it back on a little. the nut now helps center the screw part of the puller so it doesn't slip off when you start ratcheting. now comes the tricky part, you gotta get the puller jaws onto the lower part of the LCA, it helps if the hinges of the puller are a little loose so you have some play. hook two of the jaws on either side of where the LCA continues to the subframe, and the third to the end of the LCA. use one hand to help keep all three jaws on the LCA, while with the other hand you ratchet the screw part. pop goes the LBJ. takes 3 minutes tops if done correctly, no ripped boot.
don't feel bad that you've never seen anyone use this method, I pioneered it
haha really.... it was out of sheer need, and it worked really well. I'm one of those clowns that always rips the boot... and orignally I used this method for a pitman arm on my badly rusted suzuki samurai, it worked so well I continued to use it.
11-Nov-2007, 12:58 PM
#19
haha it's not that. i still like working on cars, prolly because it's still a hobby, not a job. i know what you're saying though. I'm just nowhere near my garage now.
