B series clutch
#1
B series clutch
Hai guys,
What is the best clutch on the market? I'm not looking for a high performance clutch to hold 250+ hp, just something that will get me from point A to B and every once in a while out on the track without having a premature death. Also, What Flywheel do u guys recommend. Thanks
What is the best clutch on the market? I'm not looking for a high performance clutch to hold 250+ hp, just something that will get me from point A to B and every once in a while out on the track without having a premature death. Also, What Flywheel do u guys recommend. Thanks
#3
Stock clutch would be fine for your application. I've tracked with a stock clutch before and I know tons of people that have been tracking for 5+ years with zero problems on theirs. MPR, from what I've heard, Exedy performance clutches go bad very early because their springs give out...I don't know for sure - just what I've heard. Couple of my friends went with Bully clutch because of this. Exedy OEM replacements I've heard are fine though.
I'm personally using a Competition Stage 1 and it feels more like a Stage 2 or higher. It grabs insanely hard and isn't too daily friendly sometimes. Occasionally I get pissed off and wish I used a stock clutch, lol!
I've driven on Clutchmasters as well, and they are really nice units. Pedal feel is great, easy to modulate, and extremely smooth. However, they are pricier.
No real experiences with flywheels here sorry.
I would go with Exedy 11lb flywheel and an OEM replacement clutch, or Stage 1 Bully (or Exedy if they are going to last). Will be plenty good.
I'm personally using a Competition Stage 1 and it feels more like a Stage 2 or higher. It grabs insanely hard and isn't too daily friendly sometimes. Occasionally I get pissed off and wish I used a stock clutch, lol!
I've driven on Clutchmasters as well, and they are really nice units. Pedal feel is great, easy to modulate, and extremely smooth. However, they are pricier.
No real experiences with flywheels here sorry.
I would go with Exedy 11lb flywheel and an OEM replacement clutch, or Stage 1 Bully (or Exedy if they are going to last). Will be plenty good.
#4
i've used an exedy stage1 on my car for about 4 years (1 of them was boosted) until I started making over 250whp the clutch was fine, but over 250whp it slipped. I stepped it up to an exedy stage2 and it was fine, it held the 285whp I was making for years until I sold the car.
I know a lot of people who use exedy clutches without any problems. I have however seen my fair share of bully clutches explode after only a VERY short period of time, mind you, these were high WHP cars and/or drift cars.
I know a lot of people who use exedy clutches without any problems. I have however seen my fair share of bully clutches explode after only a VERY short period of time, mind you, these were high WHP cars and/or drift cars.
#6
You also must be careful of where you get your information from. Many times people will post up saying their clutch sucks and it blew up or broke or whatever, way pre-maturely. And in many of these cases you'll find that these people actually didn't properly break-in their clutches.
Proper clutch break-in is VERY important and can have a huge impact on the life of your clutch.
I'm currently running an exedy stage 2 three-puck ceramic clutch with an 8lb exedy flywheel. I took it VERY easy for the first 1000kms as required and specified by exedy in the instructions (allow for 750mi for proper break-in...bla bla bla). No dumping, no quick shifting, no excessive slipping, no full-throttle shifts etc... I have 100% confidence that it will last as long as it was intended and desgined to last. It's a fantastic clutch. Takes some getting used to at first, especially with the 8lb flywheel. The pedal is significantly heavier but you get used to it. And damn it grabs hard and fast...lol. Entire drive-train takes quite a shock everytime you unload your foot quickly, haha.
The exedy stage 1 or similar type from other brands will be a good match for the OP's application.
Proper clutch break-in is VERY important and can have a huge impact on the life of your clutch.
I'm currently running an exedy stage 2 three-puck ceramic clutch with an 8lb exedy flywheel. I took it VERY easy for the first 1000kms as required and specified by exedy in the instructions (allow for 750mi for proper break-in...bla bla bla). No dumping, no quick shifting, no excessive slipping, no full-throttle shifts etc... I have 100% confidence that it will last as long as it was intended and desgined to last. It's a fantastic clutch. Takes some getting used to at first, especially with the 8lb flywheel. The pedal is significantly heavier but you get used to it. And damn it grabs hard and fast...lol. Entire drive-train takes quite a shock everytime you unload your foot quickly, haha.
The exedy stage 1 or similar type from other brands will be a good match for the OP's application.
#7
I had stage 1 exedy back in the day, and it was awesome, i loved that thing.
Also had competition clutch stage 1 on my last car and though it was a good clutch, i liked the exedy a bit better.
Both of those felt close to stock, don't understand why people say its not street friendly. Try a 3puck stage 2 exedy clutch it actually feels like a proper performance clutch [MPR can verify lol]
But overall, a stock clutch will do just fine for you, If you have a stock engine, there is no need to go with a stage 1 clutch. Save some $ and don't worry about it. Stock clutch can withstand quite a bit of power over what it comes stock, so minor/mild mods will still be safe.
Also had competition clutch stage 1 on my last car and though it was a good clutch, i liked the exedy a bit better.
Both of those felt close to stock, don't understand why people say its not street friendly. Try a 3puck stage 2 exedy clutch it actually feels like a proper performance clutch [MPR can verify lol]
But overall, a stock clutch will do just fine for you, If you have a stock engine, there is no need to go with a stage 1 clutch. Save some $ and don't worry about it. Stock clutch can withstand quite a bit of power over what it comes stock, so minor/mild mods will still be safe.
#10
i wouldn't buy anything yonaka. I had a bad experience with their seats, and will never buy anything from their product line again. I would buy something that has a name to it. I've found out, after many years, the name matters. Buy an exedy or competition or etc. Anything close to knock off or knock off will cost you in the long run and not worth it. Just because the price is lower than the other names out there, doesn't mean it's the same thing as the one higher priced. Check out our vendors for some good quality clutches (i got my competition stg1 from option, one of my favorite stores out there!). Also, "dyna pack" clutches are oem standard clutches, from partsource.
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