WrenchHead

Okay, so Basket Case needs new outer tie rod ends. Okay, check, got 'em. I know what needs to be done with this type of repair.

I've been reading up and it seems the "only" thing I really need to concern myself with is separating the end from the spindle, yes? That's the big deal hard part? I have a pickle fork kit and a 2.5-pound mini sledge which have served me well in the past (when my aim is good! ).

Is that it?!???!! I don't need to worry about half of the front end breaking apart or every bolt I touch with a wrench to break or ... ? (you know, like on the rear suspension)

Lookin' for that final heads-up here, ya'know?!?!?!

PATIA for any input.

kaval

That's pretty much it. Mark off the tie rod position so you can set it back reasonably close to where it was before so your alignment is insanely off while you drive to get it done after you do the repair (which you're planning to do, right? ), undo the castle nut, light tap and see if it comes out. If not, have a couple of words with stubborn basket case and give a couple of smacks with your mini sledge. It should pop out. Penetrating fluid helps a bit. When doing these types of repairs, always use a new castle nut, preferably from Honda. That's just me though.

And get an alignment after you're done, or say bye bye to your tires!

WrenchHead

The alignment will come soon enough. I need upper control arms, too (ball joints, really, but i'd rather just do the whole arm for sake of having the new bushings), so i'm not getting the alignment done until that happens. Thinking of putting the Skunk2 lowering springs back in (on stock shocks ... I know, I know!), but undecided yet. Doing a bit of research to see if I can get away with stock type units from PartSource or if I need something more fancy and adjustable.

I have learned one thing here so far - PB Blaster is a Civic owners best friend!

Thanks for the input!

D.T.P

As said above, remove castle nut, hit it with the pickle fork. Loosen the lock nut on inner tie rod, and count revolutions until the tie rod comes off. Then put on the new one and count the revolutions so its in the same length. Usually get really close to decent alignment.

For the upper control arms, remove the 17mm bolt/nut in the bottom of the strut. 14Mm holding the wishbone on the strut. Then the 3 14mm on top in the engine bay and remove the whole strut. then remove the castle nut on the upper control arm balljoint and seperate the joint the same way as tie rod. Remove the 2 nuts on the top in the engine compartment holding the control arm up, i believe they are 17mm or 19mm. Reassemble in same manner. Shouldnt take any more than 15mins per side. Front strut bolts usually are good and dont snap. Ive done a lot of work on these cars and only had one case where the 14mm snapped holding the wishbone to strut.