guitardude_15

So I creeped around on here picking up info here and there as well as many other honda websites without ever really contributing.

I have a 1997 Si D16y8 with 290 000km DIY sir style grill and SIR rims I bought in horrible shape and cleaned up. other then that the car is bone stock.

Power everything works and most of the work I've done to the car is little things to keep it that way, fixing the interior fan, replacing a rad after running over a deer, clutch change, yesterday the hood wouldn't unlatch so that was a fun couple hours figuring that one out lol.

I have a play car as well, 2004 WRX its where most of my time, energy and money have went.

Now I appear to be at a cross roads, my civic is burning/leaking oil and not getting as good of mileage as it used to. while being very clean still its got its dings and scratches and the very first hint of rust is showing up on the rear wheel well.

I'm debating whether to sell the civic, buy a newer (2004) civic, RSX or a 2001 RS 2.5 coupe.

I need another car to be good on gas because its my DD, the premium fuel 18psi of the subaru gets expensive at $150L gas prices!

My question to you the TCC'ers is do I bail and get something newer now after this civic has served me so well for so many years, or do I show it some love?

How much money and where is a shop I can talk to about having the rusted metal cut out and new piece welded in?

I would need to run new fuel and brake lines (inexpensive and I can do it myself)

Swap another motor in, easiest would obviously be pick up a d16y8 rebuild it (shop to do the machine work and again how much money?)

But if I'm going to undertake a swap why not upgrade to something b16 or b18 (I've done a hell of a lot of reading and there is some contradicting information on these swaps but the only questions I'd have are wiring/ecu related)

And then I'd want to replace the suspension with something very similar to stock maybe a touch lower (opinions/options)

So do you guys think its worth the effort to restore a 97 civic to "like new" daily driver standards?

I have a shop with full air tools and a full car hoist and while I am not a great mechanic or anything I have yet to come across something I couldn't do, it just takes me 3 hours longer then an actual mechanic to do the same job lol

Sorry for this getting so long winded any answers to my questions would be greatly appreciated.

here is a couple pics of the cars

miss_jess

iTrader: (2)

welcome

should most definitely get an rsx

miss_jess

iTrader: (2)

p.s. nice subi

guitardude_15

Thanks! Ya I'd probably go non type S tho to save on fuel/insurance...

That is a very intense avatar you got there lol

miss_jess

iTrader: (2)

I have a base

Depending on your record, insurance on a type s is not that much more then a base model... when I quoted myself, 2005 base vs. 2005 type s the increase was like $12.50 or so a month.

and yes my avatar is full of win, I know

ol Dusty

iTrader: (2)

I say keep the EK, I don't like 01+ cars though and I think my current stable reflects that. I'd leave it as it is since really you have a subie that I'm sure is lots of fun and got all the speed you need. Pull the motor out and send the head out for a rebuild if you don't feel up to it your self. Check the compression and change rings/pistons and bearing in the bottom end as needed. If you really wanna get a little more get up and go from it, maybe a mini-me swap or a B16 swap, but remember the more power you add, the more gas you'll use, both from the demand the motor needs and the fact that for some odd reason it seems the more power the engine makes the heavier ones foot seems to become. One thing that is good though is the simple I/H/E mods can make you car more efficient though.

Toss some decent suspension in there, maybe spend the extra coin on either coil overs or keep the stock stuff and swap them back in for winter mode.

Keep the car and save your money, after a few months of driving a new car you won't really feel any different then if you make the one you have better anyway.

guitardude_15

Thanks for the input, I do love my little ek. I think rebuilding it may be the most sensible option great gas mileage and low cost... But I need to see how much the rust fix will cost.

MPR

I agree with Dusty, keep the EK and keep it d-series. If you swap to a b-series engine you'll also have to swap the transmission.

For a dd with reliability and fuel economy as the main goals, get another d16z6/y8 with either low mileage and swap it in, or rebuild/refresh it and swap it in. Going to a larger diameter exhaust can harm fuel mileage (it will decrease volumetric efficiency at lower-mid rpms), so keep it as close to stock as possible.

Keep it stock, keep it maintained and you'll save money and have many more years of trouble-free service. Keep the suby for modifications.

k_r_a_c_k_e_r

iTrader: (3)

Welcome!

miss_jess

iTrader: (2)

don't listen to anyone! buy an rsx!

guitardude_15

How's the fuel economy on the rsx base?
It would be nice to have something a bit newer to work on, and I've always loved how rsx' looked.

Also what is a base Rsx going for these days ?

I figure I could restore the ek to 'like new' for 3 grand

miss_jess

iTrader: (2)

Fuel is 'ok' I drive alot.. I'm always at a gas station

Depending on year, can go from like $8000-$15000

guitardude_15

Well looks like I'm gonna hold off on the rsx for now, I just don't need 2 sporty cars right now.

Anyone know any good body shops to handle new metal on my ek?
Machine shops for block work?

Mugenn.civic.09

iTrader: (1)

Indy's 101 Customs for the body repair & Gord Bush to re surface the head and block it should run you $120 (based on the quote they gave me for my d16y8 3 months ago.... that is of course you disassemble everything yourself, and hand them bare head/block)

Oh, and btw i have a BNIB OEM d16y8 headgasket that i bought from Honda cause I thought mine was blown... if you need lmk and we'll work something out..

Sumol15

Welcome!

D.T.P

Welcome.

As many people say, keep the ek. Money well spent in fixing her up and driving it for another 5-7years trouble free.

For machine shop, as said above, gord bush...well I used to support him and had work done by him, but after few experiences of my own and of my friends, I would not go back there again. Canadian Cylinder Head all the way. Guy does all the work himself and he is very knowledgeable.

For what work to get done, well if I was in your place, I'd definitely replace valve seals, rings, hone the block, grind valves and depending on how bearings look, replace them accordingly. New head studs and rod bolts would also be recommended. Labour wise, can pull the engine out yourself. If you need any help, I'm always willing to help pull an engine out.

Suspension wise, tokico (sp?) Struts with something like tein s-tech or eiboch springs. Coilovers will be damn tight and wouldn't really want to daily a car on coils again after my last car.

guitardude_15

You guys are awesome, I'll give canadian cylinder head a call, Mr Bush is always so booked up in the summer.

As far as help I think I should be good.
Will have more questions along the way I'm sure

Thanks for the input

Mugenn.civic.09

iTrader: (1)

^yeah tein s-techs or eibach sportlines would give you a manageable drop so you can still drive over speed bumps and tackle potholes without cringing lol. pair them with Tokico blue hp struts (or illumina if you desire dampening adjustment) and you'll have a smooth setup.

& same as long as corona is supplied I'm willing to lend a hand

miss_jess

iTrader: (2)

i have tein stechs.. its a pretty big drop fyi

Mugenn.civic.09

iTrader: (1)

^
http://www.tein.com/products/s_tech_price_list.html

(rsx, straight from their website) 1.5f / 1.7r drop too much..?

Anyways, for an ek the website lists their s.techs to give on avg. a 1.9f/1.7r inch drop, should get rid of wheel gap but still give you plenty clearance for a DD

Imo, i'd go with eibach sportlines, thats what im running on.. the front half of my car, and it looks great.