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Oil Pan change on 95 cx hatch

Old 29-Nov-2004, 09:00 PM
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Oil Pan change on 95 cx hatch

Well unlike my old American cars my Honda doesn't have the auto-engine-rust-check feature by leaking at 60,000 kms.

So, the oil pan has rusted quite a bit and needs replacing.

Any tips from those with experience with this type of repair?

Thanks

b
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Old 29-Nov-2004, 11:01 PM
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dont forget to drain the oil b4 u remove it
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Old 30-Nov-2004, 08:28 AM
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he he

thanks

b
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Old 30-Nov-2004, 08:31 AM
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its pretty straight forward, make sure u buy an new gasket.
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Old 30-Nov-2004, 09:44 AM
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drain oil

buy new gasket and new oil pan... new drain bolt too

loosen each nut only 1/2 way working your way out from the middle. then tap the oil pan with a rubber mallet. this will make the pan drop onto the 1/2 way removed nuts... without falling on your face. then proceed to remove it the rest of the way without fear of a face-smashing.

good luck.
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Old 30-Nov-2004, 03:46 PM
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I did mine twice.. Long story.

Okay.. THese are instructions for my car yours may differ.

Jack up the car,
Drain the oil
Drop the front crossmember
Disconnect the exhaust header from cat,
Losen exhaust manifold bolts
Lower exhaust
Remove dust cover from tranny
Remove all oil pan bolts being carefull not to lose any,
Pull down the pan

Now you can restore you pan, or you can get a new one, new ones are very pricy. A gasket cost me 45$ cnd. If its just rust, clean it with rags and break cleaner real well. Sand the outside, and pound out any dents by laying the pan on cement (sidewalk is good) and using a 2x4 as a hammer. That way you wont warp it. After you have straightened it out and sanded it, paint it with heat resistant paint... Crappy tire sells a good brand, Cant remember the name, its about 9 bucks a can, you will need 1 can.

Then clean the old gasket/sealer off the block really well. Then set your NEW gasekt on your pan, and figure out which way it goes on, it will only fit 1 way, so dont ally gasekt sealer first. Once youve figured it out, put a thin bead around the oil pan, set the gasket on, now a thing bead around the gasket.

Put the gasket up onto the studs, try to go straight up so you dont smudge gasket sealer all over. I used a friend.

On each corner finger tight a nut over a stud. Then put on all the nuts and all the bolts in with a hand driver so they wont be too tight, start from the middle out.

Then go back and snug them up with a 3/8" rachet from the middle out. (to avoid warpage)

Now let it dry for 24hrs, and then fill with oil, reasemble exhaust and start, check for leaks. If your lucky (i wasnt, it wont leak the first try around)

While you have the pan off it may be a good idea to inspect the bottomend, look at the screen on the pickup see whats in there. If the pickup is damaged in any way,shape, or form. REPLACE IT!
and use a new oil pickup gasket.

Sorry if its a bit choppy, i dont spellcheck.

Any quesitons post.
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Old 30-Nov-2004, 03:48 PM
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Originally posted by bbarbulo
[B]drain oil

buy new gasket and new oil pan... new drain bolt too


No. You do not need a new drain bolt. You need a new drian bolt washer that comes with the oil filter that im sure he will replace to kill 2 birds with 1 stone.
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Old 30-Nov-2004, 04:02 PM
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yeah, you don't need it, but why not spare the $2 and just get a new drain pan bolt? might as well...
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Old 30-Nov-2004, 08:46 PM
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I'm pretty sure I don't have to remove the cross member, but I 'll check.

I got a used pan from a wrecker.

The old pan is almost rusted through, like I said no american style rust proofing, so I have to replace it.

I always replace all o-rings, gaskets, etc. thanks for the tip.

Anyone have the torque specs for the nuts?
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Old 01-Dec-2004, 09:31 AM
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9 lb-ft is the torque as per helms manual
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