gsr oil problemss
09-Jul-2009, 06:13 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Kitchener
Posts: 28
gsr oil problemss
hey so i have a 01 integra gsr original engine with 130k on it.. the motor doesnt leak any oil..from the seals or anything.. the only thing is when i hit vtec it shoots a bit of gas or oil i think and makes little black spots on my bumper?? ive been told thats becuase my car is running rich.. but my engine light came on today and it was a code 22.. so i look at my oil and it was below that 1st dot.. i got an oil change about 2 weeks ago and i dont beat on the car much.. i dont understand whats wrong.. and 2ndly what do i have to do to make my car not run as rich.. thanks.. and i know alot of people are going to say piston rings are fried for valve seals but with 130k i dont t think they should be messed already... but idunno i wana see if anyone else has this problem or if anyone can give me some tips.. thanks
10-Jul-2009, 11:50 AM
#4
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 242
My Old GSR used to do the exact same thing, and that was after a fresh rebuild but my rings didnt break in properly and I would literally shoot oil on to the cars behind me at 8k+rpm ..
If there are no leaks and you blew through a couple litres of oil in two weeks then I would say your rings are toast or your valve seals.
If there are no leaks and you blew through a couple litres of oil in two weeks then I would say your rings are toast or your valve seals.
10-Jul-2009, 12:00 PM
#5
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My Old GSR used to do the exact same thing, and that was after a fresh rebuild but my rings didnt break in properly and I would literally shoot oil on to the cars behind me at 8k+rpm ..
If there are no leaks and you blew through a couple litres of oil in two weeks then I would say your rings are toast or your valve seals.
If there are no leaks and you blew through a couple litres of oil in two weeks then I would say your rings are toast or your valve seals.
**** really.. well my one budy told me to run a thicker oil so im running 10w40 and see how that works out for a bit... and i know i have to rip apart the motor to do the rings and seals... but is it going to be an expensive job?
10-Jul-2009, 12:56 PM
#6
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Posts: 242
Thicker oil can help, I had to swap from Mobil1 synthetic as it was getting too expensive to dump out the tail pipe haha..
As for expensive, not really.. if you do it yourself, its the downtime that is killer. If I were you I would buy a Jspec B18C1 and swap that in while you rebuild your current engine. Or atleast thats what I did with my current K20 setup.. I blew a bearing in the bottom end and got rod knock so I tore that engine down to pieces and bought another K20 engine (with warranty lol) to drop in while I work on rebuilding my blown K20 to whatever specs I see fit. I picked up the K20a2 legit from a wreckers with 3 month warranty for $1700 so getting a B18C1 should not be that expensive.
As for expensive, not really.. if you do it yourself, its the downtime that is killer. If I were you I would buy a Jspec B18C1 and swap that in while you rebuild your current engine. Or atleast thats what I did with my current K20 setup.. I blew a bearing in the bottom end and got rod knock so I tore that engine down to pieces and bought another K20 engine (with warranty lol) to drop in while I work on rebuilding my blown K20 to whatever specs I see fit. I picked up the K20a2 legit from a wreckers with 3 month warranty for $1700 so getting a B18C1 should not be that expensive.
10-Jul-2009, 01:11 PM
#7
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Kitchener
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Thicker oil can help, I had to swap from Mobil1 synthetic as it was getting too expensive to dump out the tail pipe haha..
As for expensive, not really.. if you do it yourself, its the downtime that is killer. If I were you I would buy a Jspec B18C1 and swap that in while you rebuild your current engine. Or atleast thats what I did with my current K20 setup.. I blew a bearing in the bottom end and got rod knock so I tore that engine down to pieces and bought another K20 engine (with warranty lol) to drop in while I work on rebuilding my blown K20 to whatever specs I see fit. I picked up the K20a2 legit from a wreckers with 3 month warranty for $1700 so getting a B18C1 should not be that expensive.
As for expensive, not really.. if you do it yourself, its the downtime that is killer. If I were you I would buy a Jspec B18C1 and swap that in while you rebuild your current engine. Or atleast thats what I did with my current K20 setup.. I blew a bearing in the bottom end and got rod knock so I tore that engine down to pieces and bought another K20 engine (with warranty lol) to drop in while I work on rebuilding my blown K20 to whatever specs I see fit. I picked up the K20a2 legit from a wreckers with 3 month warranty for $1700 so getting a B18C1 should not be that expensive.
15-Jul-2009, 06:16 PM
#9
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 246
Welcome to the world of the GSR.. Very common for the B18C.
Running Rich, burning oil and low mileage. One of the things I read about a lot on GSRs is that clogged or malfunctioning PCV Values can cause a lot of un-necessary burning... May want to investigate that.
Also, for summer time - 20W50 is your friend. That plus if you're burning significant amounts between oil changes, you may want to swap to wal-mart brand oil.. Oil is oil, when it only lasts for like 1500KMs...
Running Rich, burning oil and low mileage. One of the things I read about a lot on GSRs is that clogged or malfunctioning PCV Values can cause a lot of un-necessary burning... May want to investigate that.
Also, for summer time - 20W50 is your friend. That plus if you're burning significant amounts between oil changes, you may want to swap to wal-mart brand oil.. Oil is oil, when it only lasts for like 1500KMs...
16-Jul-2009, 11:48 AM
#10
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Kitchener
Posts: 28
Welcome to the world of the GSR.. Very common for the B18C.
Running Rich, burning oil and low mileage. One of the things I read about a lot on GSRs is that clogged or malfunctioning PCV Values can cause a lot of un-necessary burning... May want to investigate that.
Also, for summer time - 20W50 is your friend. That plus if you're burning significant amounts between oil changes, you may want to swap to wal-mart brand oil.. Oil is oil, when it only lasts for like 1500KMs...
Running Rich, burning oil and low mileage. One of the things I read about a lot on GSRs is that clogged or malfunctioning PCV Values can cause a lot of un-necessary burning... May want to investigate that.
Also, for summer time - 20W50 is your friend. That plus if you're burning significant amounts between oil changes, you may want to swap to wal-mart brand oil.. Oil is oil, when it only lasts for like 1500KMs...
haha ya its doing a bit better now since i switched to 10w40.. im going to do the o2 sensor and sparkplugs too.. but i think im just going to upgrade to ctr pistons
20-Jul-2009, 12:41 PM
#13
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 246
honestly, if you go through the trouble of taking it out, you should replace it..
It's a tiny little plastic 1 way valve.. don't think it costs very much. When you do take it out, test it to see if it was working.. If it wasn't, then it will tell you that it was a contributor to the oil burning you had.. If it's mega dirty, then again it's a contributor.
It's a 1 way valve, so air should only be able to flow 1 direction..
Do you have a haynes manual, to see how to get it out?
It's a tiny little plastic 1 way valve.. don't think it costs very much. When you do take it out, test it to see if it was working.. If it wasn't, then it will tell you that it was a contributor to the oil burning you had.. If it's mega dirty, then again it's a contributor.
It's a 1 way valve, so air should only be able to flow 1 direction..
Do you have a haynes manual, to see how to get it out?
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