B16 Failed etest - New o2 Sensor??
06-Oct-2010, 01:41 PM
#1
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B16 Failed etest - New o2 Sensor??
Hey guys!
So I failed my e-test in the Idle with:
HCppm - Limit 200, I got 455.
I was told the problem could be most likely the Cat or o2 Sensor.
My cat was replaced just over a year ago, So Im leaning towards a new o2 sensor, so my question is:
My B16 in a 1993 Civic has only 1 o2 sensor, just before the Cat. When I lookup parts for '99 SiR, it says there are 2 o2 sensors.
Which o2 Sensor will work?
Thanks!
So I failed my e-test in the Idle with:
HCppm - Limit 200, I got 455.
I was told the problem could be most likely the Cat or o2 Sensor.
My cat was replaced just over a year ago, So Im leaning towards a new o2 sensor, so my question is:
My B16 in a 1993 Civic has only 1 o2 sensor, just before the Cat. When I lookup parts for '99 SiR, it says there are 2 o2 sensors.
Which o2 Sensor will work?
Thanks!
06-Oct-2010, 02:16 PM
#2
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Location: Where my car is.
Posts: 5,460
Which b16 do you have? A, A1, A2???
What cat are you running? My b16 with magnaflow high flow cat (1 year old) failed etest horribly. It was basically doing next to nothing...lol.
The primary O2 sensor is the one you'd want (the one before the cat in the collector of the header).
Next time you re-test it, turn the timing back as far as it goes and manually adjust the throttle stop screw to bring the idle up to 1000rpm. It will have no power, but it will help it pass etest.
What cat are you running? My b16 with magnaflow high flow cat (1 year old) failed etest horribly. It was basically doing next to nothing...lol.
The primary O2 sensor is the one you'd want (the one before the cat in the collector of the header).
Next time you re-test it, turn the timing back as far as it goes and manually adjust the throttle stop screw to bring the idle up to 1000rpm. It will have no power, but it will help it pass etest.
07-Oct-2010, 12:42 PM
#3
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Its a B16a2. The Cat is aftermarket but not Hi-flow. And Id rather not mess with the timing as it wont 'fix' the problem.
What I need to know is: what car/engine do I buy the o2 sensor for, if there's only one running on my car?
What I need to know is: what car/engine do I buy the o2 sensor for, if there's only one running on my car?
07-Oct-2010, 01:46 PM
#4
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Buy a primary O2 for a 99-00 civic SiR (b16a2).
The timing won't harm anything. All you're doing is retarding the ignition timing by turning the dizzy. You can change it back after the test. It takes literally 1 min to do and could be what helps you pass or fail. It'll have a significant lack of power, but who cares? As long as it passes the test.
High HC's are caused by high combustion temps. This can be significantly reduced by retarding the timing. (retarding the timing reduces compustion temps)
If the O2 is not reading slow enough to throw a CEL, then replacing the O2 will not do much to help you pass.
Making the adjustments I mentioned will only reduce all emissions and increase your chances of passing everything, especially HC's. By retarding the timing and manually bumping up the idle to 1000rpm, I would almost put money on it that it would pass. If it fails, I'd be very surprised. honestly, it should fix the problem.
I just went through all this back in january. It ended up the cat was the main problem. Even after replacing the cat with an aftermarket (non-high flow) it still failed with the timing to the stock advancement. And guess what it failed? Curb idle HC.
I had it re-tested with the timing fully retarded and idle increased to 1000 and it then passed no problem. You can check out the thread I made about it here: http://www.torontocivics.com/f56/war...e-read-165066/ All the readings from the tests are there for comparison.
Imho, it's worth a try before spending the money on an O2 and having it fail again...
Your call.
The timing won't harm anything. All you're doing is retarding the ignition timing by turning the dizzy. You can change it back after the test. It takes literally 1 min to do and could be what helps you pass or fail. It'll have a significant lack of power, but who cares? As long as it passes the test.
High HC's are caused by high combustion temps. This can be significantly reduced by retarding the timing. (retarding the timing reduces compustion temps)
If the O2 is not reading slow enough to throw a CEL, then replacing the O2 will not do much to help you pass.
Making the adjustments I mentioned will only reduce all emissions and increase your chances of passing everything, especially HC's. By retarding the timing and manually bumping up the idle to 1000rpm, I would almost put money on it that it would pass. If it fails, I'd be very surprised. honestly, it should fix the problem.
I just went through all this back in january. It ended up the cat was the main problem. Even after replacing the cat with an aftermarket (non-high flow) it still failed with the timing to the stock advancement. And guess what it failed? Curb idle HC.
I had it re-tested with the timing fully retarded and idle increased to 1000 and it then passed no problem. You can check out the thread I made about it here: http://www.torontocivics.com/f56/war...e-read-165066/ All the readings from the tests are there for comparison.Imho, it's worth a try before spending the money on an O2 and having it fail again...
Your call.
01-Nov-2010, 12:49 PM
#5
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Posts: 78
I have a B16A1 which I will need to etest soon. My ECU is chipped. Can I still pass by retarding the timing and maybe lowering the fuel pressure? What should I set fuel pressure to? Do you turn the distributor counter clockwise to retard? Should I swap a stock SI computer? Any other tricks necessary? I have a CAT but not sure if it still functions properly.
Thanks for the help
Thanks for the help
01-Nov-2010, 02:57 PM
#6
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Leave the tune(ecu) as is and fuel pressure at stock pressure (shouldn't change it otherwise).
Retard the timing all the way (turn the dizzy towards the exhaust) and manually bump the idle up to about 1000rpm (with the throttle stop adjuster screw).
It'll be pretty gutless but will definitely reduce all emission measurements.
No way to tell of you're cat is good until you test it. If it's a high-flow like a magnaflow, it may not pass regardless.
Best thing to do also, is run it HARD before you take it in. Get the cat as hot as you can to ensure it's best function.
Good luck.
Retard the timing all the way (turn the dizzy towards the exhaust) and manually bump the idle up to about 1000rpm (with the throttle stop adjuster screw).
It'll be pretty gutless but will definitely reduce all emission measurements.
No way to tell of you're cat is good until you test it. If it's a high-flow like a magnaflow, it may not pass regardless.
Best thing to do also, is run it HARD before you take it in. Get the cat as hot as you can to ensure it's best function.
Good luck.
Last edited by MPR; 01-Nov-2010 at 02:58 PM.
01-Nov-2010, 03:04 PM
#7
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Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 78
Thanks man. What's stock fuel pressure? I ask because the car was tuned years ago and I believe they upped the pressure a bit and advanced the timing. I have an adjustable regulator and a gauge so it wouldn't be too much of a hassle to adjust it, I don't think. The car smells like it runs on the rich side. Any experience with Methyl Hydrate or octane boost? I run 91 octane right now.
01-Nov-2010, 03:59 PM
#8
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Octane booster will not help you pass, netiher will running 94.
I don't know why they would have upped the fuel pressure. There's no real benefit. Stock fuel pressure should be set to about 36-38psi with the vacuum line connected to the regulator and with the engine running idling at about 900-1000rpm.
I don't know why they would have upped the fuel pressure. There's no real benefit. Stock fuel pressure should be set to about 36-38psi with the vacuum line connected to the regulator and with the engine running idling at about 900-1000rpm.
Last edited by MPR; 01-Nov-2010 at 04:00 PM.
01-Nov-2010, 04:08 PM
#9
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Posts: 78
I have a friend who swears by octane boost. His mustang failed 7 times and he said the only thing he did different was put in the octane additive. I personally used methyl hydrate in my mustang and the numbers didn't even budge!! I put 1 litre in a half a tank of gas and nothing. Retarding the timing is what worked on that car, but that car was a very marginal fail. I have a feeling this car will fail miserably in it's current setup. Should I run 87 octane after I retard the timing all the way? I'll check the fuel pressure and confirm where it's at. I have a feeling that running a bit rich all these years probably killed my CAT. I guess we'll see.
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