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Deep cycle battery vs Marine battery

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Old 11-Oct-2007, 02:43 AM
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Deep cycle battery vs Marine battery

Whats up people,
I am currently drivin a 95 honda civic..and its time to change my battery, (alternator is next summer). so ive decided to go with either deep cycle or marine battery or marine (deep cycle battery).. all i have is a system, nothin special. i would like to know if any one has any experiences with these types of batteries, or any suggestions???

thanks in advance
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Old 11-Oct-2007, 09:34 AM
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maybe a deep cycle marine battery lol
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Old 11-Oct-2007, 09:39 AM
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Generally, for any modified sound system it is suggested you use a deep cycle battery. But i suggest you change your altenator before you change your battery because if your altenator is bad and you change your battery your just gon make your new battery worse even if you change your altenator after. So my suggestion, first get a high output altenator then change your battery to a deep cycle one.
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Old 12-Oct-2007, 02:18 AM
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hmmm
ive been told that before..
well i know when i plug in a converter, and plug in my laptop to it, it measures the voltage being put out and it does not stay at a consistent 14V, it fluxuates and drops below 11V, then gives an error and resets, so i cannot even charge the laptop.. could this be battery, or alternator.. both are stock might i add..
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Old 12-Oct-2007, 11:04 AM
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You might want to look into doing the big 3 before buying something expensive like a new battery.
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Old 12-Oct-2007, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by SilverSleeper
You might want to look into doing the big 3 before buying something expensive like a new battery.
Big 3 I friggin hate that term. I would at least just upgrade your main ground wire from the battery NEG to Body. IMO one of the best upgrades you can do. Plus if you still have the OEM Honda ring battery terminals toss those and get something better ie. NAPA, or you can go fancy streetwires, stinger, etc.


You can get a decent deep cycle battery for about $200 or so out the door. IMO a INEXPENSIVE upgrade. If you can't afford that amount then you shouldn't have a system.
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Old 12-Oct-2007, 09:56 PM
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big 3????.... i have already upgraded my grounds in the car.. but for the NEG of the battery do you think 4 gauge wire would be sufficient?...
..
well would a deep cycle be better than a marine? this is what ive understood so far...
  • Deep cycle batteries are designed to be discharged down as much as 80% time after time, and have much thicker plates. The major difference between a true deep cycle battery and others is that the plates are SOLID Lead plates - not sponge. Unfortunately, it is often impossible to tell what you are really buying in some of the discount stores or places that specialize in automotive batteries. The popular golf cart battery is generally a "semi" deep cycle - better than any starting battery, better than most marine, but not as good as a true deep cycle solid Lead plate, such the L-16 or industrial type. However, because the golf cart (T-105, US-2200, GC-4 etc) batteries are so common, they are usually quite economical for small to medium systems.
  • Marine batteries are usually actually a "hybrid", and fall between the starting and deep-cycle batteries,though a few (Rolls-Surrette and Concorde, for example) are true deep cycle. In the hybrid, the plates may be composed of Lead sponge, but it is coarser and heavier than that used in starting batteries. It is often hard to tell what you are getting in a "marine" battery, but most are a hybrid. "Hybrid" types should not be discharged more than 50%. Starting batteries are usually rated at "CCA", or cold cranking amps, or "MCA", Marine cranking amps - the same as "CA". Any battery with the capacity shown in CA or MCA may not be a true deep-cycle battery. It is sometimes hard to tell, as the term deep cycle is sometimes overused. CA and MCA ratings are at 32 degrees F, while CCA is at zero degree F. Unfortunately, the only positive way to tell with some batteries is to buy one and cut it open - not much of an option.
rebuttal?
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Old 12-Oct-2007, 10:45 PM
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4 gauge is fine. But if you can get 2 gauge or 0 gauge it's always better though it is a bit harder to find.
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Old 15-Oct-2007, 02:57 PM
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Hmm alright.. well the decision is still in the air.. still researching...
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Old 01-May-2008, 09:18 PM
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im right now debating on two deep cycle batteries

Optima 5100 yellow cap

&

Kinetik, model still pending( or if anyone knows of any good models)


Does anyone have any one of these, and if so how does it perform? Or any thoughts?

Last edited by iTaLiAn_vIrUs; 01-May-2008 at 09:29 PM.
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Old 01-May-2008, 10:03 PM
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I kept hearing a lot of great things about Kinetik
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Old 01-May-2008, 10:53 PM
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who sell's the yellow top?
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Old 02-May-2008, 12:14 AM
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Don't forget the measurements too. I moved my deep cycle from my Sunfire to the Civic and i had to change the ground from the battery because it was to big to fit in the stock location. The bracket that holds the original battert was N/A in my case.
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Old 03-May-2008, 01:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Sirberner
who sell's the yellow top?
Maxmotor sport in sauga...
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Old 04-May-2008, 10:24 AM
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Hmm alright so it looks like Kinetik is a positive choice so far
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Old 04-May-2008, 11:22 AM
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I personally would buy a battery new from a shop vs ebay or online somewhere. Why? Warranty FTW!!


Curious how big of a system are you building?
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Old 04-May-2008, 08:07 PM
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this is from a shop, thats why im curious,to see which brand is better

not sure yet, still acquiring all my parts.... put it this way.. im going as big as my wallet is.. and right now.. it isnt that big lol

BUT if im going to buy i might as well buy it once and buy it right
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Old 10-May-2008, 01:20 PM
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There's a person over on CCA selling

http://www.canadiancaraudio.com/onli...isonik-mb.html

I have 2 kinetik HC-2400's both are BNIB. One was removed for pictures.
Asking 240.00 EACH

User name is Brospeed and located in Orangeville. Might be worth the drive
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