Alternator Rebuilding HELP WANTED
 

Should i have my alternator Rebuilt or should i buy an alternator that produces 150amps.

do you know anyone.

is anyone on this forum selling one.

where can i buy one from?

how much am i looking for 135 a and how much for 150a?

help guys. i need this for my audio setup.

Thanks

Russ

Russ

depends what you want.

If you get yours rewound it could work out fine or it could die prematurely.

How much are the 150a? are they new or rebuilt?

I've always been a fan of keeping the Nippon Denso alternator, and as such I believe in rebuilding. However, rewound ones... that's a whole new game. What are you running that you would need 150A alternator? Do you have an on-board welder? :p

what info do you require...
not too sure if this is what you were asking as i'm not a huge fan of audio but i do love my music crisp.
Here is my setup:
2 12 infinity kappa 12.1 d series
1 farad capacitor and the huge cables i believe its the 8 gauge
1500 watt amp MTX
and from what i remember there is a fuse near my battery positive terminal that says 120 amp or watts and the guy that did the install said i needed to juice up my alternator to atleast 120 to get the best pounding results and also change a battery to an optima one with the yellow cap.

thats all i know..

here are problems i'm facing right now when music is loud...
lights dim on every BOOM
its only pounding 60 % as i was told by the install bay guys..and they are friends of my brother so i know for a fact that they will not bull**** me....

if anyone can throw in more advice that will be great

[QUOTE]Originally posted by meateater
[B]
1 farad capacitor and the huge cables i believe its the 8 gauge

lol huge cables are 8 gauge!!! I love it, huge calbes are anything with a kcm rating (its the circular millimetres) 8AWG isn't big, i have a not so large system in my car and im running 4AWG twice the size of you... maybe you need to upgrade your cable size...

^^^ yup and also all the ground wires including battery to chassis. Add another cap... otherwise I think the the upgraded alternator is a good idea. Ive thougfht about it myslef.. I heard there are highoutput rebuild kits for the OEM alternator. Ive seen them for GMs but yet to see a honda one... somone must make it. 60amps at idle i think

8 gauge is small wiring, only ususally good for about 500 watts or so. Usually if you have a decent system you should have 4 gauge, if not 1/0 gauge wiring. If you really only have 8 gauge wiring, then there' no way you're getting enough power through to really have 1500 watts, and in that case you have some serious problems if your car is dimming.

It's only pounding 60%, juice up alternator to get the best pounding? lol ok... I guess that's what they told you, but that makes no sense.

You have a fuse near your battery. The 120 is the amount of amps the fuse is rated for. If your current draw is larger than 120, then the fuse blows. That has nothing to do with your alternator.

If you have a really small alternator, then generally speaking you'd want to upgrade, mainly because your alternotor is what's powering the car while it's running. A bigger battery also usually helps, but is not so much of a factor while the car is on, more so while the car is off, or while idleing.
Also, I'd suggest you take out the capacitor. Yes capacitors do have a fuction, but at only one farad, it usually adds more resistance than anything. Don't think it's true? My car was slighty louder after taking it out. (Mind you it was basically an inaudible amount, but enough to show up on a meter)

whoever is your installer doesnt have any idea what there talking about. Im guessing a 1500watt MTX amp is only truly putting out 500-750wrms. Why do you want to upgrade your alt? DO you have dimming problems ?

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Brett
[B]like i said i'm not that good with names of cables and audio setup.

but my cable is pretty huge man. i'm not sure how it works but i'm guessing bigger the number smaller the cables?

i woudl say the diameter of my cable is slightly near an inch.

its from stinger i believe.... but i will find out for sure.

sorry for the confusion.

Russ oh i think i have a picture of it

i need atleast 100 at idle or was it somehting like 80 at idle. but i'm sure i need my alternator when running need to make 120 +

yes i do experience dimming.

i'm running on stock alternator and battery from honda

upgrade your grounds in the engine bay and the wire from the alt to the positive battery terminal. Also I woudl get a new battery before you get a new alt.

Also getting an alt rewound is pretty much worthless as it just raises your peak amps output and lowers your idle output.

This may be a question where its not possible but also could be one thats sort of an idea but i was thinking can you have one battery connected for your subs and one for you car?

is this anyway possible if you connect or extend the battery terminals from under the hood?

i think this could be possible.

Let me know

Thanks

Russ

yes, most guys run a second inline battery in the trunk, soemtimes 2 or 3:D Im pretty sur u just have to splice into the power wire and ground it to the chassis

Regardless, your alternator still has to charge the batteries, so the alt output must be > total power consumption.

How about installing another alternator, have you considered that? I mean a 2nd alternator in addition to the original one. I've seen many Honda stereo cars run this setup.

You just have to use a battery isolator so that the alternator only charges one battery at a time. It would work, but it would also put more strain on your factory alternator. I am still suggesting to just upgrade your factory engine bay grounds and the power wire from the alt to the battery. Then if you still dim id look into a new battery because a new alternator can be quite costly. I am getting a 220A alt for $354US shipped and thats a good price compared to other places.

where is that alt from?

Dominik Iraggi

company or person?

He owns Iraggi Alternators