cold air or short ram
#2
Cold air intake goes from your intake mani down into your bumper vs short ram is same pipe but ends in the engine bay. In theory cai should be better since its sucking colder air but then by the time it travels down the pipe it heats up unless you spray the piping with high heat paint to keep the inside colder. Now ram air sucks in hot air from the engine bay.
In the end they are both the same and neither of them you will notice when you drive other than the extra sound. Short ram will sound louder vs cold air.
Just buy a kit of ebay. All it is, is a pipe with a filter in the end. Or you could even just pull the airbox out and put a filter in the end of the pipe.
In the end they are both the same and neither of them you will notice when you drive other than the extra sound. Short ram will sound louder vs cold air.
Just buy a kit of ebay. All it is, is a pipe with a filter in the end. Or you could even just pull the airbox out and put a filter in the end of the pipe.
#3
Cold air intake goes from your intake mani down into your bumper vs short ram is same pipe but ends in the engine bay. In theory cai should be better since its sucking colder air but then by the time it travels down the pipe it heats up unless you spray the piping with high heat paint to keep the inside colder. Now ram air sucks in hot air from the engine bay.
In the end they are both the same and neither of them you will notice when you drive other than the extra sound. Short ram will sound louder vs cold air.
Just buy a kit of ebay. All it is, is a pipe with a filter in the end. Or you could even just pull the airbox out and put a filter in the end of the pipe.
In the end they are both the same and neither of them you will notice when you drive other than the extra sound. Short ram will sound louder vs cold air.
Just buy a kit of ebay. All it is, is a pipe with a filter in the end. Or you could even just pull the airbox out and put a filter in the end of the pipe.
Thats the other concern with CAI intakes. They can suck up water and hydrolock ur engine. Many ppl will say this is will never happen, and i somewhat agree, it would be fairly rare in the summer if there are no big puddles areound, but i know a few people who have hydrolocked their engines cause of the CAI before.
#5
The truth is, there won't be that much of a difference. When ur car is moving, it'll have cooled air moving into the engine bay anyways. I've also read dyno tests on the two, and the hp gain is negligiable.
#8
of course you notice a difference with CAI or SRI!!! i have an Injen SRI, and it def helps!!! def has a nice sound and greater pull when you hit the high rpm's!! its not a huge difference in terms of HP, maybe 2-3 more but it def picks up better
#9
i dought u would even get 7hp 2-3 i had 2 install a cover 4 my cai i was sucking up water u would have 2 drive through a river 2 make the motor lock tho iv had my filter fall off and then it was an open pipe with the tire soaking the end with crap
#10
OP short ram would be better in my opinion since it would be less danger of water entering the intake. but again if you look in the engine bay...your intake will sit above your transmission [1.5ft or so higher] and there is a lot of empty space. so if you hit a puddle/river hard enough your bay will get washed and your filter will get wet. I would get a filter cover just to be safe.
Painting the tube should work in theory, i think i saw a thread on here a long while ago about it [could have been a different forum] and appearntly it does help a bit but again the difference is so minor, you will not feel it.
my advice would be to get an ebay kit for cheap and enjoy the extra sound. And also please dont buy those crazy brand name intakes for $150-$200 because when you get it you realize that all it is, is a pipe with a filter
#11
heres a comparison of a short ram intake vs a aem intake both on a stock SiR vs with the intakes.
K&N short ram intake: http://www.kandn.com/dynocharts/57-3512_dyno.pdf
AEM Cold Air Intake: http://aempower.com/images/products/...h%2021-417.pdf
I personally have an AEM short ram. I did feel a difference both in low rpms and high rpms (no im not talkin about sound) im talkin acceleration wise (torque?). believe me or not...
For arguements sake.. my mechanic (ken from IPC) told me that CAI actually causes you to lose hp after a certain amount of mods (like crazy mods) i think it was like 300 whp? not sure...cant remember exactly. but CAI does cause you to lose hp at the lower end of the rpm range...but provides higher gains in the higher range than sri. the AEM V2 intake supposedly fixes this with better lower end gains and higher end gains. (not sure bout the whole 300+ hp thing but the lower gains will b better)
supposedly it is also pretty hard to fully submerge your filter in water.
its ur choice.
K&N short ram intake: http://www.kandn.com/dynocharts/57-3512_dyno.pdf
AEM Cold Air Intake: http://aempower.com/images/products/...h%2021-417.pdf
I personally have an AEM short ram. I did feel a difference both in low rpms and high rpms (no im not talkin about sound) im talkin acceleration wise (torque?). believe me or not...
For arguements sake.. my mechanic (ken from IPC) told me that CAI actually causes you to lose hp after a certain amount of mods (like crazy mods) i think it was like 300 whp? not sure...cant remember exactly. but CAI does cause you to lose hp at the lower end of the rpm range...but provides higher gains in the higher range than sri. the AEM V2 intake supposedly fixes this with better lower end gains and higher end gains. (not sure bout the whole 300+ hp thing but the lower gains will b better)
supposedly it is also pretty hard to fully submerge your filter in water.
its ur choice.
#12
SRI also has better throttle response, and it feels more torquey to me.
Fully submerging the filter is hard, but hitting a BIG puddle isnt. if it splashes enough water up behind the filter of a CAI, it could suck up water. Ppl i know who have hydrolocked their engines, wasnt cause they went swimming with their civ's its cuase they hit BIG puddles.
Fully submerging the filter is hard, but hitting a BIG puddle isnt. if it splashes enough water up behind the filter of a CAI, it could suck up water. Ppl i know who have hydrolocked their engines, wasnt cause they went swimming with their civ's its cuase they hit BIG puddles.
#14
I saw this pictire before, it is a cross between the 2 (short ram and CAI)
What the person did is buy a cheap cia off ebay and just didn't make the bend down behind the bumper. You kinda get the ebst of both worlds. Colder air, and no chance of puddles. Just my 2 cents
What the person did is buy a cheap cia off ebay and just didn't make the bend down behind the bumper. You kinda get the ebst of both worlds. Colder air, and no chance of puddles. Just my 2 cents
#15
As those dyno graphs abaove showed, not a HUGE gain. 3-6hp at peak output gain. And that is on a B series dohc vtec motor. It will be not as noticable on a D series motor.
In all honesty, they are tubes with high flow filters on them. Don't be fooled into buying a big brand name kit for hundreds of dollars. If you do, your throwing your money away. I bought a $75 sri from performance improvements couple years back, worked great but the main difference is the filter was cheap.
So buy a cheap kit, throw away the filter and get a K&N cone filter for it. Will last you forever.
Heck, I don't even use the sri anymore. I use a Bpi velocity stack right on the throttle body (no tubing) with a very large K&N cone filter. It deffinitely helps in the mid to upper rpm range especially on the vtec cams at 5600-8200rpm (b16). Seriously I find this setup works best (in my application). You may say now it's sucking in hot air, but I've installed hood spacers to lift the rear of the hood by the hinges up about 3/4" to promote more air flow through the engine bay, keeping the temperatures down. Seems to be working well.
In all honesty, they are tubes with high flow filters on them. Don't be fooled into buying a big brand name kit for hundreds of dollars. If you do, your throwing your money away. I bought a $75 sri from performance improvements couple years back, worked great but the main difference is the filter was cheap.
So buy a cheap kit, throw away the filter and get a K&N cone filter for it. Will last you forever.
Heck, I don't even use the sri anymore. I use a Bpi velocity stack right on the throttle body (no tubing) with a very large K&N cone filter. It deffinitely helps in the mid to upper rpm range especially on the vtec cams at 5600-8200rpm (b16). Seriously I find this setup works best (in my application). You may say now it's sucking in hot air, but I've installed hood spacers to lift the rear of the hood by the hinges up about 3/4" to promote more air flow through the engine bay, keeping the temperatures down. Seems to be working well.
#17
I've seen a few people do this.. what did you do with your sensor? and i assume u just put a breather on the pcv?
now... the reason why i havent done this is because with a sri in theory any air that doesnt make it in to the throttle will bounce back and forth in the piping and hopefully bounce back at the intake stroke (may not be explaining this well..but im tired lol) but yea. this is the whole concept that the J's racing (whale *****) intakes were trying to utilize and enhance. but mayb it cud also bouce back and forth within the filter and this wud be at a shorter distance as well.. and the air would also have less distance to travel initially as well...i wudnt mind trying it if i cud do somethign about the sensor and if i had a breather.
also.. i'd say ebay intakes wud b the way to go in terms of price mayb a painted 1 to reduce heat.. and just get a K&N filter to put on the end. not sure how much that wud run you tho. I ended up getting the AEM cause i found a good deal on it on ebay it was 100 bucks all inclusive (taxes shipping and everything) theyre 150 regularly + taxes.
now... the reason why i havent done this is because with a sri in theory any air that doesnt make it in to the throttle will bounce back and forth in the piping and hopefully bounce back at the intake stroke (may not be explaining this well..but im tired lol) but yea. this is the whole concept that the J's racing (whale *****) intakes were trying to utilize and enhance. but mayb it cud also bouce back and forth within the filter and this wud be at a shorter distance as well.. and the air would also have less distance to travel initially as well...i wudnt mind trying it if i cud do somethign about the sensor and if i had a breather.
also.. i'd say ebay intakes wud b the way to go in terms of price mayb a painted 1 to reduce heat.. and just get a K&N filter to put on the end. not sure how much that wud run you tho. I ended up getting the AEM cause i found a good deal on it on ebay it was 100 bucks all inclusive (taxes shipping and everything) theyre 150 regularly + taxes.
As those dyno graphs abaove showed, not a HUGE gain. 3-6hp at peak output gain. And that is on a B series dohc vtec motor. It will be not as noticable on a D series motor.
In all honesty, they are tubes with high flow filters on them. Don't be fooled into buying a big brand name kit for hundreds of dollars. If you do, your throwing your money away. I bought a $75 sri from performance improvements couple years back, worked great but the main difference is the filter was cheap.
So buy a cheap kit, throw away the filter and get a K&N cone filter for it. Will last you forever.
Heck, I don't even use the sri anymore. I use a Bpi velocity stack right on the throttle body (no tubing) with a very large K&N cone filter. It deffinitely helps in the mid to upper rpm range especially on the vtec cams at 5600-8200rpm (b16). Seriously I find this setup works best (in my application). You may say now it's sucking in hot air, but I've installed hood spacers to lift the rear of the hood by the hinges up about 3/4" to promote more air flow through the engine bay, keeping the temperatures down. Seems to be working well.
In all honesty, they are tubes with high flow filters on them. Don't be fooled into buying a big brand name kit for hundreds of dollars. If you do, your throwing your money away. I bought a $75 sri from performance improvements couple years back, worked great but the main difference is the filter was cheap.
So buy a cheap kit, throw away the filter and get a K&N cone filter for it. Will last you forever.
Heck, I don't even use the sri anymore. I use a Bpi velocity stack right on the throttle body (no tubing) with a very large K&N cone filter. It deffinitely helps in the mid to upper rpm range especially on the vtec cams at 5600-8200rpm (b16). Seriously I find this setup works best (in my application). You may say now it's sucking in hot air, but I've installed hood spacers to lift the rear of the hood by the hinges up about 3/4" to promote more air flow through the engine bay, keeping the temperatures down. Seems to be working well.
#18
The whole "reducing heat" is a little bit hard for me to accept. For simplicity's sake, lets take a CAI. When i come back after a long drive (30+ mins) and i pop the hood, touch the intake near the bottom, its cold to the touch. i touch the midde of the pipe, its still cold. When i touch the very top of the intake next to the manifold, its a cool/warm, depending on how long the car sat there before i popped the hood. Now, air is moving thru this lil sucker (no pun intended) pretty fast. Would it really have enough time for THAT much heat to transfer from the inside of the warm pipe, to the air flowing thru it?
#20
I've actually found that SRI's make more power across the board, with the exception of down around 4000-4500rpms where CAI's produce a peaky torque curve.
I don't know how good of an idea putting a filter or velocity stack right on the throttle body is, since i'm sure you'll loose all sorts of torque doing that. Take intake manifold design into consideration. Longer runners are better for torque/low end/midrange power whereas shorter fatter runners are better for top end power (7000rpms and above). This is the whole design principal behind the GSR/h22's dual runner intake manifold.
I'd be interested seeing dyno results from putting a filter rigth on the throttle body compared to having an intake. I've only done a few cars with a filter right on the throttle body and let me tell you, the torque just wasn't there.
I don't know how good of an idea putting a filter or velocity stack right on the throttle body is, since i'm sure you'll loose all sorts of torque doing that. Take intake manifold design into consideration. Longer runners are better for torque/low end/midrange power whereas shorter fatter runners are better for top end power (7000rpms and above). This is the whole design principal behind the GSR/h22's dual runner intake manifold.
I'd be interested seeing dyno results from putting a filter rigth on the throttle body compared to having an intake. I've only done a few cars with a filter right on the throttle body and let me tell you, the torque just wasn't there.