BPI Velocity Stack
#2
BPi - Performance Velocity Stack
i believe they ship to canada
i believe they ship to canada
#3
We usually just make ram airs out of an old headlight just smash out the glass drill out the back where the bulb goes in as big as it can go and put a coupler on the back and run a pipe to the intake we have mad 1psi of boost using this method
#4
Due to the shape of the reflector in the back of a head light (which was designed to...um...reflect light...) is not as efficient at allowing air to be drawn in as the BPi velocity stack is (which was designed for air flow). Interesting method though...lol.
To the O.P.; I have a bpi velocity stack. It works great, I recommend it. Just make sure you buy the K&N filter they specify for it.
#5
Interesting enough that you say that due to the fact that an eg or ek headlight are due to popular disbeliefe round inside if you have ever had one apart you would know this and it all drains down to the headlight socket they infact work very well if they didn't shops would not sell carbonfiber versions of this for headlights and fog lights. This is just a more cost effective way thanks for the input
#6
Interesting enough that you say that due to the fact that an eg or ek headlight are due to popular disbeliefe round inside if you have ever had one apart you would know this and it all drains down to the headlight socket they infact work very well if they didn't shops would not sell carbonfiber versions of this for headlights and fog lights. This is just a more cost effective way thanks for the input
Yes, I know what an eg/ek head light reflector looks like, I had mine apart when I blacked them out. They are round. But that's not necessarily the most efficient way to get air into a tube.
If you look at it, they curve inwards to where the bulb used to be, then there is a sharp transition for the air to travel past where the reflector stops and the tube begins. This will cause turbulence and bottleneck the air trying to come in.
I'm not arguing it doesn't work well. I'm sure it does, and I've seen a lot of people do it. I'm saying there is a better way.
One of those ways is the carbon fiber head light ram air units. Now if you look closely at one of these, you'll notice the shape of the inlet is not the same as the reflector in the stock unit, and the point of transition from 'scoop' to tube, is much smoother, creating pretty much zero turbulence.
The carbon fiber units I'm sure are quite pricey and it costs basically nothing to make your own from a stock head light assembly, so yeah it makes sense to do so on a very tight budget. If you can shape the transition very smoothly, I bet it would work just fine. Do you have any pics of your setup? Would like to see it.
Back to the O.P., What is this car used for? Racing, daily driving, or both?
#7
I'm understand what you are trying to say but you are wrong ram air works like a turbo so a certain extent people waste money on buying bigger throttlebodys and intake manifolds for there turbo cars when at 8psi persay then engine is forceing psi in regardless of the runners and throttle body size. The headlight at 114mph works the same way as a velocity stack yah the stack is round and smoother but forced air is forced air it be forced no matter the shape it's being forced in
#8
I'm understand what you are trying to say but you are wrong ram air works like a turbo so a certain extent people waste money on buying bigger throttlebodys and intake manifolds for there turbo cars when at 8psi persay then engine is forceing psi in regardless of the runners and throttle body size. The headlight at 114mph works the same way as a velocity stack yah the stack is round and smoother but forced air is forced air it be forced no matter the shape it's being forced in
Also, ok wow, so at or above 114mph, you've got 1psi. And how much time is spent at those speeds on a given race track, especially in an NA civic?....not very long. So it's still an NA engine powered car. AN engines benefit well from more efficient intake manifolds and larger throttle bodies (to an extent and depending on other modifications done to the engine). All the time spent below that speed, it's still essentially an NA motor and should be treated as so.
Also if you re-read what I mentioned before, the carbon fiber units are not 'cupped' but more 'trumpet' like or in other words, convex instead of concave. This is because it flows better, period.
For the original poster, I'm pretty sure he won't be going over 114mph all the time and it would benefit from using a velocity stack like the BPi unit.
I never said you were wrong or your setup didn't work well. I'm sure it works just fine. Post up some pics! I love seeing home made stuff like this.
#9
BPi - Performance Velocity Stack
i believe they ship to canada
i believe they ship to canada
#11
lol, dont listen to this dude. Zman and i have documented dynojet proof that they work and make power when accompanied with the appropriate dryflow/k&n filter. where's ur proof, el?
#12
How are velocity Stacks garbage where did you get that wonderful piece of info.... I'm pretty shure you can get one off anyone with a keystone account if not try JRP I'm shure they have them in stock any size that's probably your best bet
#14
+1. My car gained 5whp on the dyno by adding the BPi velocity stack and k&n filter to my short ram with no other mods.
#15
The only reason I even considered trying out the velocity stack was because of my buddy picking one up when he was down south in the states. He works with sheet metal and made himself a custom heat shield eliminating a lot of the heat soak . He ran the car on a dyno a few weeks ago and the damn thing made like 5whp!! So he spent like $70 between the velocity stack and the k&n filter ......I would say that's money well spent !
#18
I now have it directly on the throttle body (with no piping at all) and I believe it works very well like that as well.
Try it with different configurations and see what you like best. You will probably find more bottom-end to mid range with a long cold air intake tract and less bottom/more mid-top-end with a short ram pipe or directly on the tb.
#20