EF.Hatch

I did an engine swap on my EF and my stock cat is stalling out/ sputtering my engine. Either way I need a new cat. I searched many different sites but I'm still not sure on what to get. I need a cat that will pass e-test and be a 2.5" diameter. I don't care about performance as my car passes and last time I barely passed under hotrod. I have read a lot about "spun" cats and was wondering if anyone is using them and how they do on e-test. Or if you peoples are using something else with success I would like to know.

MPR

Spun cats do nothing. Their meant to just "be there" basically. I would also suggest anything other than magna-flow.

Try to get an oem style universal cat. They usually flow a little better than stock but still have core that is robust enough to function properly.

D.T.P

Wait, was the cat "stalling" out your car before the swap?

Because it seems silly to change a cat because engine sputters right after a swap...

MPR

^lol I totally missed that part of his post.

Yeah, fix the sputter first and then worry about the cat. Make sure you're running the correct ecu with a proper tune.

EF.Hatch

The swap is over a year old, I've just been running with no exhaust. Since I want to drive it legallly on the road I have to etest but the car runs like a bag with my 2 year old cat and when I accelerate more than 25% throttle the car sputters and if I keep it there long enough it'll choke out. Here's the odd thing. I take out my cat and the car runs fine with no issues whatsoever. I have a chipped p28 with a modified p30 map. I have o2 disabled along with knock sensor I believe. I am throwing codes though. I have a traction control code, cyp,ckp. When I fix it so the light turns off, except for TC, the car won't start. I know this is off topic but does anyone know how to fix the TC code? Back on topic, What do you guys think of walker cats? I just want to pass etest. I'll post previous numbers when I find them.

EF.Hatch

I etested twice. Had to pass to be completely legally registered.
This is my fail:
40km/h
Type......Limit....Reading....Result
HC ppm...382.....221..........Pass
CO%.......3.01....0.12.........Pass
NO ppm...3838...3462.........Pass
RPM 2232........................Valid
Dilution 12.50....................Valid

Curb Idle
HC ppm...300......341.........Fail
CO%.......1.5......0.06........Pass
RPM 1069........................Valid
Dilution 12.75..................Valid

This is my Pass after retarding timing 2 degrees and lowering idle
HC ppm.....382.....90..........Pass
CO%.........3.01....0.02.......Pass
NO ppm.....3838...3750.......Pass
RPM..........2187................Valid
Dilution......13.32...............Valid

Curb Idle
HC ppm.......300......176.......Pass
CO%...........1.5.......0.00.....Pass
RPM......816.......................Valid
Dilution...12.10...................Valid

I've been told etest number tell how the engine is running and I figured since I was talking about etest I would post my numbers. Back on topic, during this period of time I was using my cat without any issues except being gutless which is why I took it off. I had it off for about a year and now I'm having issues with it on. It is oem with 1 inch inside diameter.

MPR

^You would have passed as-is if you retarded the timing all the way and manually bumped up the idle to 1000rpm.

Aside from that, sounds like the cat you had on their is plugged. Any universal replacement cat will be fine. Stay away from mangaflow high flow cats. All they are good for looking like a cat...lol.

EF.Hatch

Which universal brand should I get? I can get a walker off of summit for $55, are they any good?

mrmarkus

There's nothing wrong with magnaflow, just people who use them in the wrong sense. When buying a cat, you need to know your CID and GVW. Buying a 2.5 inch cat for your civic that's meant to go on a truck won't help you at all. Yes, that's a very common mistake when people go to fartsource and buy the magnaflow 531xx series and 941xx series. If it's a regular 1.6-1.8 civic check out magnaflow #53006.

D.T.P

The traction control cel...ignore it. It is caused by your chip. Zeeman verified that for a project i helped a friend out with.

EF.Hatch

Do you have this cat? Did you pass etest? All I want is is to pass etest so I can drive my car. I do not care about performance gains at this point as there will enough gained by going to a 2.5" vs a stock 1".

EF.Hatch

OFF TOPIC WARNING:


Maybe you can help me by explaining why I have the ckp and cyp code as well. At first I figured I wired the distributor plug wrong so I rewired it so the light turned off but the car just cranks. I switch the wires so light is on and the car runs without a hiccup. I used my stock OBD-0 harness, the OBD-0 harness that came on the engine and a spare OBD-1 harness to make my one complete harness. All these are under hood harness, for inside the cat I bought a boomslang.