Y8 build up
12-Dec-2003, 01:49 PM
#1
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Y8 build up
after trying to decide what head to use on my d16z6, I have decided to go with the Y8. After reading many comparisons it seems that the 2 very identicle heads make the same amount of power when looking at very high #'s except the y8 head made the power lower on the rpm range and the z6 made it high on the rpm range.
Now you can apply this to your set up, whether you want high or low. Mr perspective is that since i will only be doing a mild street set up. involving light head work and bolt ons, a Y8 head would be better since the power is slightly lower. Not to mention the Y8 head is less likely for detonation then the Z6 head.
My question to you guys is now, how is the best and most cost effective way to go about building up my Y8 head.
Now you can apply this to your set up, whether you want high or low. Mr perspective is that since i will only be doing a mild street set up. involving light head work and bolt ons, a Y8 head would be better since the power is slightly lower. Not to mention the Y8 head is less likely for detonation then the Z6 head.
My question to you guys is now, how is the best and most cost effective way to go about building up my Y8 head.
12-Dec-2003, 02:16 PM
#3
great question... solid background research indicates real interest and committment to acting on it rather than dreaming about it.
you say "mild street" setup. it's important you understand the only way an engine with 1597 cc of displacement makes power is through RPM, it's the only way it can move enough air for 150-160 normally aspirated hp. This is by no means a MILD street setup you are looking at.
The way to go is dual springs from JUN or Comp, also a cam that you like - mild or wild it's up to you, Ti retainers, and a Leitner P&P job on the head. Slight milling of the head to make it level and sqaure it with the valves, then oversized SS valves with the stems machined can be put in, and a three angle valve job. On a NA motor of this displacement and this geometry, I think you should look to also rebuild the bottom end with a micropolished crank (maybe a D15 crank?) that's knifedged and balanced, new Honda bearings and a modded (ported) oil pump (or like a Spoon one). Pistons can have the skirts coated to reduce friction and channel away heat from combustion. Finally, I'm not sure if it's got this like the b-series, but oil squirters would be REALLY nice. Compression for pump gas should be about 10.5 or so to be really safe, but I'm no expert, talk to Leitner about that. You can spin this engine to prolly well over 8000, maybe into 9000 rpm, and you can look for about a good 160 hp flywheel.... maybe more maybe less... I'm just giving a +/- 10 hp guestimate. BUT your torque will remain at about 110 or so
so at low rpm it'll drive like a regular Civic.
you say "mild street" setup. it's important you understand the only way an engine with 1597 cc of displacement makes power is through RPM, it's the only way it can move enough air for 150-160 normally aspirated hp. This is by no means a MILD street setup you are looking at.
The way to go is dual springs from JUN or Comp, also a cam that you like - mild or wild it's up to you, Ti retainers, and a Leitner P&P job on the head. Slight milling of the head to make it level and sqaure it with the valves, then oversized SS valves with the stems machined can be put in, and a three angle valve job. On a NA motor of this displacement and this geometry, I think you should look to also rebuild the bottom end with a micropolished crank (maybe a D15 crank?) that's knifedged and balanced, new Honda bearings and a modded (ported) oil pump (or like a Spoon one). Pistons can have the skirts coated to reduce friction and channel away heat from combustion. Finally, I'm not sure if it's got this like the b-series, but oil squirters would be REALLY nice. Compression for pump gas should be about 10.5 or so to be really safe, but I'm no expert, talk to Leitner about that. You can spin this engine to prolly well over 8000, maybe into 9000 rpm, and you can look for about a good 160 hp flywheel.... maybe more maybe less... I'm just giving a +/- 10 hp guestimate. BUT your torque will remain at about 110 or so
so at low rpm it'll drive like a regular Civic.
12-Dec-2003, 02:30 PM
#4
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the reason i consider my build up mild is that im leaving the bottem end stock, i dont have the time to have car offline nor the money to work on the bottem end, although i will put in lightened flywheel for sure.
at this time I know i will put a cam with retainers and springs in, GSR throttle body. I may or may not as of yet get it P&P, 3 angle valve job.
Other then that i have I H E ecu chipped hi flow cat. I will be happy if i get like 130whp.
i heard of a similar set up around that whp, mayeb with tuning i can get more
at this time I know i will put a cam with retainers and springs in, GSR throttle body. I may or may not as of yet get it P&P, 3 angle valve job.
Other then that i have I H E ecu chipped hi flow cat. I will be happy if i get like 130whp.
i heard of a similar set up around that whp, mayeb with tuning i can get more
12-Dec-2003, 03:43 PM
#6
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ok I agree with bbarbulo's build there...
if you want some carapsion between cranks (for the bottom end) the D15 came with a 84.5 mm stroke and the D16z6 came with a 90 mm stroke.... the D17 came with the 94.4 mm stroke.... if your going for the high revs then I'd say keep the stroke short. if your looking for the low end "power' (and I quoted that because there ain't much there) then the D17 crank but I recommend the high reving engine as well.
on a side note though (since I don't have time to re-research this) I believe I read somewhere that the D15 crank won't work in the D16 block.... has to do with main journal size I believe.... but I recommend you speak to an engine builder and not take this word for it because like I said I'd have to look it up again... and I can't find it.
if you want some carapsion between cranks (for the bottom end) the D15 came with a 84.5 mm stroke and the D16z6 came with a 90 mm stroke.... the D17 came with the 94.4 mm stroke.... if your going for the high revs then I'd say keep the stroke short. if your looking for the low end "power' (and I quoted that because there ain't much there) then the D17 crank but I recommend the high reving engine as well.
on a side note though (since I don't have time to re-research this) I believe I read somewhere that the D15 crank won't work in the D16 block.... has to do with main journal size I believe.... but I recommend you speak to an engine builder and not take this word for it because like I said I'd have to look it up again... and I can't find it.
12-Dec-2003, 04:03 PM
#7
the main journal can be machined either way... if the MJ is too big on the block, it can be filled with aluminium alloy and welded into place similar to what's done when a motorcycle block cracks from a wipeout. Then, it can be machined to size. If you wanna see 9000+ rpm, this is the way to go. I'd love to build a little D15 screamer and toss it in a early 1/2G Civic or even a 1G integra.
14-Dec-2003, 06:35 PM
#11
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"The way to go is dual springs from JUN or Comp, also a cam that you like - mild or wild it's up to you, Ti retainers, and a Leitner P&P job on the head. Slight milling of the head to make it level and sqaure it with the valves......."
I didnt know that Leitner did good work.....and sqaure work...wow things have changed....hey bbarbulo have you gotten any work done at Leitner..? All my buddys who have had blocks sleeved there have had major problems...dropping a few mm is not a good thing
I didnt know that Leitner did good work.....and sqaure work...wow things have changed....hey bbarbulo have you gotten any work done at Leitner..? All my buddys who have had blocks sleeved there have had major problems...dropping a few mm is not a good thing
15-Dec-2003, 03:52 PM
#13
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it does not cost much. depending. The cam would be the most expensive mod. I dont know if im going to bother shaving the head and getting a P&P.
Y8 head. Y8 intake manifold, B-Series throttle body, Cam set up. these are the basics and very reliable. An engine swap would definitly be way more. Not to mention less reliable and you sure as hell wont get your money back on re sell. I dont care what you say.
Although a swap would leave me open to more tuning options in the future, but im just looking to tune what I have not to make a all out project on my civic.
Y8 head. Y8 intake manifold, B-Series throttle body, Cam set up. these are the basics and very reliable. An engine swap would definitly be way more. Not to mention less reliable and you sure as hell wont get your money back on re sell. I dont care what you say.
Although a swap would leave me open to more tuning options in the future, but im just looking to tune what I have not to make a all out project on my civic.
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