Wheres the cheapest place to get an alignment?
21-Jun-2004, 02:14 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Markham
Posts: 123
Wheres the cheapest place to get an alignment?
I just got new front skunk2 camber kit. The passenger front wheel is way off. Where is the cheapest place to do 2 wheel alignemnt?
btw: is it possible to adjust alignment yourself?
btw: is it possible to adjust alignment yourself?
21-Jun-2004, 04:02 PM
#4
you'll prolly just have to pay for 1.5 hours of labour @ $80/hr. I believe that's the going rate for an alignment, which is rediculous b/c if u watch them it really only takes 30-45 minutes.
Booourns to the flat rate system of charging for labour.
Booourns to the flat rate system of charging for labour.
21-Jun-2004, 06:08 PM
#8
Luka
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 14,319
I wouldn't go to Honda unless they specifically say they can do lowered vehicles or have experience doing them. Honda will also probably just put it to factory specs wheras wheel and tire zone will adjust it to whatever settings you want them to. And if you're in markham go to...uhh **** i forget what its called...something with a G. PM Buddah he'll tell you. A place in scarborough does 4 wheel for $75.
21-Jun-2004, 09:45 PM
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Aurora
Posts: 360
Invest in a good camber gauge if you're going to adjust camber. You need a level surface for adjusting camber, and then bounce and roll the car each time you make an adjustment to settle everything. Camber affects toe, toe doesn't affect camber, so do that first.
As for setting toe, it's fairly simple with a few things you must keep in mind to do it right.The steering must be centered. NOT the steering wheel persay, but the steering rack itself. Rolling the car back and forth a few times should accomplish this and once it's done, find a way to lock it in place. (Princess Auto sells steering wheel locks for around 40 bucks... Using the club or any other theft deterant device will not work) Next, we BOX/SQUARE the car.
A level surface is not as important for toe as it is for camber.
As you can see in that pic, the string is attached to the bar. The important thing is the distance BETWEEN the string on each side of the bar. That DISTANCE must be the same on both bars. The following exaggerated example shows that it doesn't even matter how long the bars are. What is important is the DISTANCE BETWEEN the strings on each bar respectively to ensure they are running parallel to each other and eventually to the centreline of the vehicle.
# - represents the string placement on the bar.
12345 - represents the distance between the string on the bar.
Example:
-----#12345#----------------- (BAR 1)
-------------#12345#-- (BAR 2)
Now that you effectively have a parallelogram of bar and string surrounding your vehicle, you have to square it. This is where the ruler comes in. Starting at the front of the car ( it doesn't matter where you start actually ) you measure the distance from the string to a point on the CENTRE of the wheel. (or very close to centre... let's say the centre cap)...
Measure to that same CENTRE point on the other side of the vehicle. Let's say the LEFT front measurement is 100 units, and the RIGHT front measurement is 50 units, then you move the front bar to centre the string at 75 units per side. Now do the same thing for the rear wheels and adjust the rear bar accordingly. Double check your measurements and you're done. You've squared/boxed your car and are now ready to measure toes.
Starting with the front of the vehicle (it doesn't matter actually) measure from the string to a flat surface on the forward and the rearward sides of that wheel. The difference in units is your toe value.
Let's say you measured 2" from the string to the rear side of the wheel and 3" from the string to the forward side of that wheel, you have 1" of toe in. Adjust accordingly to get your toe to preferred spec. Follow this pattern on all the other wheels and you're done. No bouncing and rolling is required to settle the car as opposed to camber adjustments.
Putting something with a low coefficient of friction under the tire will make it easier when you adjust toe. Also, putting the vehicle up with the tires sitting on blocks of some sort will make it easier for you when trying to get under the string and vehicle.
As for setting toe, it's fairly simple with a few things you must keep in mind to do it right.The steering must be centered. NOT the steering wheel persay, but the steering rack itself. Rolling the car back and forth a few times should accomplish this and once it's done, find a way to lock it in place. (Princess Auto sells steering wheel locks for around 40 bucks... Using the club or any other theft deterant device will not work) Next, we BOX/SQUARE the car.
A level surface is not as important for toe as it is for camber.
As you can see in that pic, the string is attached to the bar. The important thing is the distance BETWEEN the string on each side of the bar. That DISTANCE must be the same on both bars. The following exaggerated example shows that it doesn't even matter how long the bars are. What is important is the DISTANCE BETWEEN the strings on each bar respectively to ensure they are running parallel to each other and eventually to the centreline of the vehicle.
# - represents the string placement on the bar.
12345 - represents the distance between the string on the bar.
Example:
-----#12345#----------------- (BAR 1)
-------------#12345#-- (BAR 2)
Now that you effectively have a parallelogram of bar and string surrounding your vehicle, you have to square it. This is where the ruler comes in. Starting at the front of the car ( it doesn't matter where you start actually ) you measure the distance from the string to a point on the CENTRE of the wheel. (or very close to centre... let's say the centre cap)...
Measure to that same CENTRE point on the other side of the vehicle. Let's say the LEFT front measurement is 100 units, and the RIGHT front measurement is 50 units, then you move the front bar to centre the string at 75 units per side. Now do the same thing for the rear wheels and adjust the rear bar accordingly. Double check your measurements and you're done. You've squared/boxed your car and are now ready to measure toes.
Starting with the front of the vehicle (it doesn't matter actually) measure from the string to a flat surface on the forward and the rearward sides of that wheel. The difference in units is your toe value.
Let's say you measured 2" from the string to the rear side of the wheel and 3" from the string to the forward side of that wheel, you have 1" of toe in. Adjust accordingly to get your toe to preferred spec. Follow this pattern on all the other wheels and you're done. No bouncing and rolling is required to settle the car as opposed to camber adjustments.
Putting something with a low coefficient of friction under the tire will make it easier when you adjust toe. Also, putting the vehicle up with the tires sitting on blocks of some sort will make it easier for you when trying to get under the string and vehicle.
22-Jun-2004, 12:06 AM
#16
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 414
I wouldn't go to Gilman unless Raymond works on your car.
The last time I went for my alignment, his apprentice (some asian punk) went to buy tim horton's coffee in MY ****ing car.
I was like WTF???
To top it off, about a week after my alignment, while I was washing my car, I notice that the lug nuts were ****ing Loose.
How loose? I could have removed the lug nuts with my fingers.
In summary, if it isn't Raymond working on your car, I wouldn't bring it there.
Peace.
The last time I went for my alignment, his apprentice (some asian punk) went to buy tim horton's coffee in MY ****ing car.
I was like WTF???
To top it off, about a week after my alignment, while I was washing my car, I notice that the lug nuts were ****ing Loose.
How loose? I could have removed the lug nuts with my fingers.
In summary, if it isn't Raymond working on your car, I wouldn't bring it there.
Peace.
22-Jun-2004, 02:10 PM
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Markham
Posts: 123
[QUOTE]Originally posted by jason_alt
[B]Invest in a good camber gauge if you're going to adjust camber. You need a level surface for adjusting camber, and then bounce and roll the car each time you make an adjustment to settle everything. Camber affects toe, toe doesn't affect camber, so do that first..........
QUOTE]
Am I missing something? I read the whole thing and cant find how to adjust the toe...
ps. thanks for the heads up at Gilman
[B]Invest in a good camber gauge if you're going to adjust camber. You need a level surface for adjusting camber, and then bounce and roll the car each time you make an adjustment to settle everything. Camber affects toe, toe doesn't affect camber, so do that first..........
QUOTE]
Am I missing something? I read the whole thing and cant find how to adjust the toe...
ps. thanks for the heads up at Gilman
22-Jun-2004, 05:42 PM
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Aurora
Posts: 360
http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=647462
That link shows how to do it for a 4th/2nd gen civic/crx. Should be similar to your setup.
That link shows how to do it for a 4th/2nd gen civic/crx. Should be similar to your setup.
22-Jun-2004, 09:02 PM
#20
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Newmarket
Posts: 166
Got my allignment done today at Firestone on Yong St in Newmarket. It cost $89.99 for 4 wheel alignment. They wher fast and friendly.
(the pic in my sig is before i corrected my drop, its all good now)
(the pic in my sig is before i corrected my drop, its all good now)
