What's the difference between D16Y7 and Y8?
 

As the title suggested, what's the difference?

I know Y8 has an intake manifold, what else?

Y7 has an intake manifold, it's just a different shape... one has a much larger plenum.

One is VTEC, other is not, 107 hp vs 127 hp, about the same torque... trannies are geared diff'tly. They share fuel rails, injectors, pumps, all the accessories, but use a diff't head, and the c/r is also different, but I'm not sure if that's b/c of the pistons or the head. :shrugs: Intake manifold is diff't but interchangable... distributor is different. What exactly is it you wanna do?

I think my final goal is to turbo my D16. Everyone is doing swap and I don't mean to be a stand out, but I just like the idea of turbo (so do you Bruno).

I was browsing other American sites and some of the Apexi AX53 are sold with FMIC for around $2700 CDN (with shipping to other American cities, but need more for Canada and custom charges). I don't know if I have the time and energy to build a homemade turbo by myself. I am not buying the kit yet, but I want to set my goals ahead.

As for Y8, I was wondering if there is a way to make a Y7 perform closer to a Y8 then turbo it. Or do a Y8 swap then turbo. Some people talk about Y7 w/ Y8 head but I forgot what a head is... is that a header?

My car is pretty clean, I think I will just lower it a little, get some bars, turbo it, lighten the car and upgrade the breaks + a decent set of rims. Ya.. that's about it.

If I had a hatch, I'd have a stock B18C5 in it. It's just such a spectacular match...

4drs are best done with B18B turbo, cuz turbo motors make about 180 lb-ft of torque.

Coupes I like with GSR motors with some work on them... maybe even turbo.

I'm doing this turbo cuz I think of it as a $5000 school of tuning and turboing. If I scatter every part in that motor including the turbo, I'm looking at about a $5000 replacement value. The hope is that I won't put a rod through the block on my first drive, and that I can get it safely to a dyno facility where we can continue to tune it. However, once I do blow something, I'll transfer the turbo setup to a B18B maybe with a new equal length manifold and perhaps even bigger turbo. On the B18B I can prolly put down 260 wheel hp, about 310 flywheel. This is also on stock internals, but with ignition control. With this step I'll prolly end up going to a complete standalone unit. Once the block needs freshening, then Leitner will kindly build a boost baby block with sleeves and all... and I'll be looking for 400 flywheel hp at about 16-18 psi. By this point, the torque should be in the 300s range.

So hatch with a B18C5, is that base on your personal taste? Or hatch is too light for a turbo?

if you don't mind sitting in very fast light cars then a turbo hatch is good :thumbup:

Ask people with GSR turbo's in hatches, I'm sure you know who we're talking about :nods: See what they're response is like :)

But like Bruno said, Type R motor in a hatch would be amazing, provided you love the feel of NA power :nods:

The fastest car I have driven is only a GSR, and I didn't even floor it... I guess my goal is to reach the 200 hp range. As for whp, I guess something around 170 should be plenty for me.

Ray's T-GSR is one fast beast. People have been saying fast cars are hard to handle. I wouldn't know as I haven't driven one, yet.

As for the difference between N/A and turbo, I wouldn't know what's the different feel you guys are talking about. A turbo kit and a B18C-R might go around the same price (brand name turbo that is) and seems like turbo is the cheaper solution to go after.

Plus, turbo sounds nice.

Upgrade to Teg Gen2 LS rods.....D16 rods are puny. I also heard B16 rods can be machined to fit D16's.....dunno...i haven't physically seen them before....its what i read.

I have more respect for ppl w/ really fast NA (a certain JDM pimped out silver teg comes to mind lol)

Turbo is the next cheapest way to go fast other than NOS (but you have to fill the bottle like....after 10-15 shots?), plus you have that bling factor lol spppooooool.....ppssshhhhh

Torque is what turned me away from a swap.

Yes, Charles that's a personal preference, nothing to do with power delivery.

Really the only diff at 200 hp between your options is torque. Every B18 motor craps out at about 130... the D16 turbo makes about 180 torque. That's a number you can take to the bank. The around town feel will be AWESOME... it'll feel like you have a V6. It makes a large difference. Try to stay away from internals if you want to keep costs in check. Once you open the motor, you may as well just do everything, which is about $3 - 5000+ worth of work, in which case it would have been better to start off with a B18B swap for $3000 and then spend another $2000 in internal work on that... and the result would be closer to 300 hp. So these are intersecting curves of cost vs power, so you have to locate yourself on a curve that suits you best.

B, so you are suggesting turbo the sucker and leave the way it is right?

B18B is a DOHC or SOHC? (I am thinking it is the first), so that Apexi AX53 won't fit it then right? But I heard that AX53 can still fit B series block with a different head.

Is head = header?