What type of impact gun??
17-Dec-2003, 01:29 PM
#1
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What type of impact gun??
For axles? I tried my 380 ft/lb yesterday and it didn't even budge the axle nut. We got it off but after some serious surgery to the axle nut with my grinder 
Im wondering what is reccomended?
Im wondering what is reccomended?
17-Dec-2003, 01:38 PM
#2
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while we are on this topic ... what sort of compressor should I get and what sort of CFM should it have and what PSI should it have...
(loudsubz, not trying to hyjack your thread just trying to keep like topics in one easy to find place)
(loudsubz, not trying to hyjack your thread just trying to keep like topics in one easy to find place)
17-Dec-2003, 01:48 PM
#3
I had a Goodyear tire shop hit mine, and I drove it home on loose axle nuts, and then when home I used a 3 foot Snap-On ratchet with the 32mm nut on it. BUT BUT BUT, you HAVE to make sure you grind off that tab that is punched into the keyway of the axle. Sounds like you already took care of that. BTW, as a reference, the torque specs on that nut are nowhere near 380 ft/lbs... I don't remember exactly, but I torqued mine with a regular ol' click type 1 ft torque wrench.
Jay, each tool has it's rating that's writen right on it, usually either at 40 psi and/or 90 psi. In my experience, the paint gun takes the most CFM and is the most demanding tool out there, esp if you plan to run a HPLV gun. However, for most tools 6-7 CFM at 90 psi is more then plenty.
Jay, each tool has it's rating that's writen right on it, usually either at 40 psi and/or 90 psi. In my experience, the paint gun takes the most CFM and is the most demanding tool out there, esp if you plan to run a HPLV gun. However, for most tools 6-7 CFM at 90 psi is more then plenty.
17-Dec-2003, 01:57 PM
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Originally posted by bbarbulo
I had a Goodyear tire shop hit mine, and I drove it home on loose axle nuts, and then when home I used a 3 foot Snap-On ratchet with the 32mm nut on it. BUT BUT BUT, you HAVE to make sure you grind off that tab that is punched into the keyway of the axle. Sounds like you already took care of that. BTW, as a reference, the torque specs on that nut are nowhere near 380 ft/lbs... I don't remember exactly, but I torqued mine with a regular ol' click type 1 ft torque wrench.
Jay, each tool has it's rating that's writen right on it, usually either at 40 psi and/or 90 psi. In my experience, the paint gun takes the most CFM and is the most demanding tool out there, esp if you plan to run a HPLV gun. However, for most tools 6-7 CFM at 90 psi is more then plenty.
I had a Goodyear tire shop hit mine, and I drove it home on loose axle nuts, and then when home I used a 3 foot Snap-On ratchet with the 32mm nut on it. BUT BUT BUT, you HAVE to make sure you grind off that tab that is punched into the keyway of the axle. Sounds like you already took care of that. BTW, as a reference, the torque specs on that nut are nowhere near 380 ft/lbs... I don't remember exactly, but I torqued mine with a regular ol' click type 1 ft torque wrench.
Jay, each tool has it's rating that's writen right on it, usually either at 40 psi and/or 90 psi. In my experience, the paint gun takes the most CFM and is the most demanding tool out there, esp if you plan to run a HPLV gun. However, for most tools 6-7 CFM at 90 psi is more then plenty.
17-Dec-2003, 02:05 PM
#5
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17-Dec-2003, 02:08 PM
#6
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Originally posted by bbarbulo
I had a Goodyear tire shop hit mine, and I drove it home on loose axle nuts, and then when home I used a 3 foot Snap-On ratchet with the 32mm nut on it. BUT BUT BUT, you HAVE to make sure you grind off that tab that is punched into the keyway of the axle. Sounds like you already took care of that. BTW, as a reference, the torque specs on that nut are nowhere near 380 ft/lbs... I don't remember exactly, but I torqued mine with a regular ol' click type 1 ft torque wrench.
Jay, each tool has it's rating that's writen right on it, usually either at 40 psi and/or 90 psi. In my experience, the paint gun takes the most CFM and is the most demanding tool out there, esp if you plan to run a HPLV gun. However, for most tools 6-7 CFM at 90 psi is more then plenty.
I had a Goodyear tire shop hit mine, and I drove it home on loose axle nuts, and then when home I used a 3 foot Snap-On ratchet with the 32mm nut on it. BUT BUT BUT, you HAVE to make sure you grind off that tab that is punched into the keyway of the axle. Sounds like you already took care of that. BTW, as a reference, the torque specs on that nut are nowhere near 380 ft/lbs... I don't remember exactly, but I torqued mine with a regular ol' click type 1 ft torque wrench.
Jay, each tool has it's rating that's writen right on it, usually either at 40 psi and/or 90 psi. In my experience, the paint gun takes the most CFM and is the most demanding tool out there, esp if you plan to run a HPLV gun. However, for most tools 6-7 CFM at 90 psi is more then plenty.
The torque spec on the nut is 132ft/lbs I belive.
The prob with ours was the damn thing was so rusted on, no antiseize was applied to the threads so it was fused pretty bad.
Finally got it off after gridning off half the top part of the nut and part of the spline as well. What a night lol.
As for compressor, check out that link Jay, and also if you just plan to run common air tools like impact and ratchet and chisel no need for more than 6 or so.
But things like air grinders and sanders and files all take alot.
Most paint guns dont consume alot either.
17-Dec-2003, 03:21 PM
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yah ive came across a few axle nuts that wouldnt come off by impactgun, I also snaped a 1/2' drive socket extension (about an inch long, the short beefy ones) with a ratchet and my floor jacks pump bar as a ratchet handle extention... So out came the torch and liquid wrench...still took the 2 of us on the bar to crack it loose.. that was probably the bitchiest nut ive ever had the pleasure to deal with...
I think the solution is to make sure all of the staked part of the nut is compleatly bent back out, and if its really stuborn, then let it soak over night with some penetrateing lube, then last resort is heat...(dont want to much heat in there due to wheel bearings, ect)
I think the solution is to make sure all of the staked part of the nut is compleatly bent back out, and if its really stuborn, then let it soak over night with some penetrateing lube, then last resort is heat...(dont want to much heat in there due to wheel bearings, ect)
17-Dec-2003, 03:30 PM
#9
HEAT??? you do realize the HOT HOT brakes are right there.... up to 425 deg F.
I soaked that mother trucker for 3 days in liquid wrench, and I had a 32 mm impact gun socket just split open from the torque I was putting on it. That's when I decided to go to the shop for help.
After all that, I couldn't get the axles to slide out of the hub
That took another 3 days. At the end, I threaded on the old nut just a little bit, then I took a 2x4 and laid it overtop, and the applied the BFH to it until it gave way. Naturally, I had new axle nuts all ready to go in little cute Honda bags I also got new caslte nuts for the ball joints.
I soaked that mother trucker for 3 days in liquid wrench, and I had a 32 mm impact gun socket just split open from the torque I was putting on it. That's when I decided to go to the shop for help.
After all that, I couldn't get the axles to slide out of the hub
That took another 3 days. At the end, I threaded on the old nut just a little bit, then I took a 2x4 and laid it overtop, and the applied the BFH to it until it gave way. Naturally, I had new axle nuts all ready to go in little cute Honda bags I also got new caslte nuts for the ball joints.
17-Dec-2003, 03:37 PM
#10
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haha now that u put it that way tis is tru, I guess im just to cautious sometimes, i figured direct heat from a torch right on the axle might transfer to the bearings quicker, but i also didnt realize that brakes got up to "450" deg F, dam thats fookin hot... no holdin back next time, ill just melt the sscunt off into molten lava!! haha
dont you love those little honda bags expensive hardware tho
dont you love those little honda bags
expensive hardware tho
17-Dec-2003, 03:40 PM
#11
Well, the brake fluid is rated at 450 deg, so the bearings have to be good for at least that much... direct flame heat is diff't from transferred heat, so you still wanna be careful about where you apply the flame 
17-Dec-2003, 03:51 PM
#12
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yah, tru... but now that i think about it, a bit of torch heat on the axlenut probably doesnt pose any threat to the bearings.. as long as you dont hold the torch there for 5-10 mins or something stupid... I was joking about melting it off ...lol im sure u figured that 
18-Dec-2003, 01:12 AM
#13
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Originally posted by bbarbulo
HEAT??? you do realize the HOT HOT brakes are right there.... up to 425 deg F.
HEAT??? you do realize the HOT HOT brakes are right there.... up to 425 deg F.
18-Dec-2003, 06:09 PM
#18
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seems to be a lot of grinding going on eh? haha
they do sell heavy duty air guns which are used for tranport truck repairs etc.... those bad boys are heavy duty.... a friend of mine got his crank bolt off with one in a 4th gen
they do sell heavy duty air guns which are used for tranport truck repairs etc.... those bad boys are heavy duty.... a friend of mine got his crank bolt off with one in a 4th gen
18-Dec-2003, 06:10 PM
#19
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Originally posted by PunkInDrublic
seems to be a lot of grinding going on eh? haha
they do sell heavy duty air guns which are used for tranport truck repairs etc.... those bad boys are heavy duty.... a friend of mine got his crank bolt off with one in a 4th gen
seems to be a lot of grinding going on eh? haha
they do sell heavy duty air guns which are used for tranport truck repairs etc.... those bad boys are heavy duty.... a friend of mine got his crank bolt off with one in a 4th gen
yeh But I didnt feel like going out and paying $200 + for a 500 + lb/ft gun for one use
