well, its that time....FINALLY!
here is my dilema. I have a stock bumper on my 97 civic coupe with a carbon fibre mugen lip....i also have an intercooler that is 24x12 (2 ft wide by 1 ft high)
The problem i have is I have no idea how to mount it. Like I wanted to have a pretty agressive look so I was planning on cutting out the bumper to whatever size it needs for the intercooler to be showing completely. secondly there is another option. I was also thinking about just cutting out the bottom area where the fog lights are and having it only show half the intercooler......... let me say before everyone says hide it cuz of cops i don't care about what cops will have to say cuz a. I sure as hell wont get caught speeding cuz i rarely speed anyways. b. i insured my car as a civic 1.8 t...lol.....so insurance knows about it, and c. i don't care if its flashy and gets stolen cuz once again its all insured...lol...but i don;t want it stolen btw cuz that would suck but those are just my conditions before everyone tells me its bait...hahaha so, does anyone have any good pics of civics with a cut out bumper to show the intercooler and for the pros, whats the best way to cut out a bumper? thanks:thumbup: |
JIG SAW PNEUMATIC AIR TOOL FTW
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www.cardomain.com
you might be able to find what you are looking for. (i.e. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/733556 ) |
it's not that it's bait, its just gay. Why show off an intercooler, so your friends will go "nice intercooler, looks sick" and everyone else will go, wow look at that hacked up bumper, oh good for him he's got a turbo and then go on with their lives. If I went turbo I'd hide the intercooler and paint it black. Sleeper ftw.
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i had to cut the CRAP out of my bumper cover for my intercooler to fit (95 civic coupe, all stock body parts), its not a huge intercooler either, its just the stock bumper has LOTS of plastic in there that needs to be trimmed/removed to make room. I'm just glad that i didn't need to cut the crap out of the actual bumper (metal part attached to the car), i actually didn't need to cut that at all.
So i left the grille in (in the middle) the 2 outside ones needed to be cut completely out to make room for the charge pipes. So sometimes you don't always have an choice. Even with the grille in there you can clearly see the intercooler. Even if its black, someone that knows what they're doing will be able to recognize a FMIC. A big FMIC looks sexy IMO, but sleeper for the win....lol. I'll post pics of what mine looks like tomorrow. |
ew you homo.. it probably looks so zeepos
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it looked better for the 2 seconds while it was zip tied up...that's before it fell and smoked my legs.
FUG....empty your PM box, its full and i can't respond to your PM and your email addy on file here isn't vaild anymore. |
hahahahahaha.. man im sorry i kept on laughing..... it was just so funny hahhahahahahahaha
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Originally posted by zeeman it looked better for the 2 seconds while it was zip tied up...that's before it fell and smoked my legs. FUG....empty your PM box, its full and i can't respond to your PM and your email addy on file here isn't vaild anymore. its all clear now man...:thumbup: |
no pics eh?:notfair:
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i just got home, after i eat some dinner i'll take some pics.
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http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...insky/FMIC.jpg
You can clearly see the intercooler, even with the grille still in there. I HAD to cut out all of the smaller (side) grilles to make room for the charge pipes, and up close you can see the bumper buldging out from where its resting against the charge pipes. I would've liked to keep those grilles in tact, but they just took up too much space and there was no way it would work. I didn't have to do any cutting of the actual bumper (or re-bar if you wanna call it that) to make the FMIC fit, i just drilled holes throuh it and bolted the FMIC up (the FMIC already had brackets welded on with holes in it from the CRX it was on). I could've made the charge pipes fit through the side grilles and look all hawt...but that would've required cutting the crap out of the re-bar and IMO thats not the best idea.....function over fashing in my eyes. |
well, all the new parts should be in within 5-7 days so this car is turning out to take way more dollars than i thought i would spend but i thought i might as well go all out and make it proper...=D
new parts coming in...=D Code Product Quantity Price/Ea. Total SBC Turbo XS Boost Controller $79.37 $79.37 arp-208-4302 ARP Head Stud Kit $121.78 $121.78 sk-311-05-0370 Skunk2 Racing Valve Spring Set $186.20 $186.20 CRS5394A3D Eagle ESP H-Beam Connecting Rods $330.00 $330.00 FD00004 Brembo Sport Cross Drilled Brake Rotors $149.00 $149.00 26-135 AEM Front High Performance Brake Pads $44.83 $44.83 405-A011 APEXi Electronics $98.00 $98.00 AC-MM-007 Avid Racing Engine Mount $431.98 $431.98 Total: $1,441.16 lol......so expensive~! |
i see you've got eagle rods, but what pistons are you going to be using?
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Originally posted by zeeman i see you've got eagle rods, but what pistons are you going to be using? |
i've had good sucess with both JE and wiseco....but i've used JE a few more times than wiseco
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Originally posted by Fug lol......so expensive~! |
Originally posted by m power ur joking, right? |
I'm sorry but $1500 is penuts when it comes to building an engine, nevermind building an engine and boosting your car.
If you are complaining about spending $1500 STOP RIGHT NOW and sell all of your stuff, b/c it will only get worse from here. You don't need to build an engine for boost to have a fast, reliable car....its more in the setup and tuning. |
Originally posted by Fug so yes, it "technically" is expensive since there are so many better ways to spend money, like saving even.....does that answer your clever question? |
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