weight reduction
08-Jul-2007, 07:34 AM
#2
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Toronto
Posts: 1,530
I'm not so sure I would do that.
It might compromise the integrity of the chassis and or the safety in a rear end impact.
I'd first do this.
Remove the entire interior, everything except driver seat and dashbpard.
Then with a heat gun, meltout the tar sound dampening.
On the outside, remove all the plastic wheel well crap. (splash gards) and the one under the facia.
Remove the A/C unit and power steering if you have them.
Remove the glove box.
Remove the spare tire and jack (keep a can of that goop in case you get a flat)
remove every other screw in the facia.
Remove every other screw in the dashboard.
Remove the stereo and all the speakers and cables.
AND skip the choco bar, you can drop the 25 lb from your waist too.
TA DA! you and your fat girl just went on a diet.
Leave all the screws/ parts that are important for safety and chassis stiffness.
Don't remove bolts for sub-bumpers or the sub bumper itself.
Everything I suggested will cost you $0 and you can return it to stock if you want to sell the car later.
If you want to spend some money you can also CF the hood.
It might compromise the integrity of the chassis and or the safety in a rear end impact.
I'd first do this.
Remove the entire interior, everything except driver seat and dashbpard.
Then with a heat gun, meltout the tar sound dampening.
On the outside, remove all the plastic wheel well crap. (splash gards) and the one under the facia.
Remove the A/C unit and power steering if you have them.
Remove the glove box.
Remove the spare tire and jack (keep a can of that goop in case you get a flat)
remove every other screw in the facia.
Remove every other screw in the dashboard.
Remove the stereo and all the speakers and cables.
AND skip the choco bar, you can drop the 25 lb from your waist too.
TA DA! you and your fat girl just went on a diet.
Leave all the screws/ parts that are important for safety and chassis stiffness.
Don't remove bolts for sub-bumpers or the sub bumper itself.
Everything I suggested will cost you $0 and you can return it to stock if you want to sell the car later.
If you want to spend some money you can also CF the hood.
08-Jul-2007, 11:48 AM
#3
and enjoy the cop crushing your car b/c if you get pulled over they will assume you were street racing, or the car was built to street race since you've gutted the crap out of the car.
08-Jul-2007, 01:33 PM
#5
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Toronto
Posts: 1,530
Originally posted by zeeman
and enjoy the cop crushing your car b/c if you get pulled over they will assume you were street racing, or the car was built to street race since you've gutted the crap out of the car.
and enjoy the cop crushing your car b/c if you get pulled over they will assume you were street racing, or the car was built to street race since you've gutted the crap out of the car.
08-Jul-2007, 04:56 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Niagara Falls
Posts: 899
removing small tiny 1g screws from the dash reduces weight??
like, the whole 5 little bolts holding it in? you save 5g of weight! wow.
removing splash guards, what does that reduce? 1 lb? wow.
that's REALLY gonna help.
if you want speed. forget making your car look like crap. put a good WELL built engine in, and turbo.
the time and dollars is worth making your car a unstructurally safe heap of crap.
it's a honda. not a race car. reducing the car by 10lbs isnt gonna make you move faster. but engine work will.
like, the whole 5 little bolts holding it in? you save 5g of weight! wow.
removing splash guards, what does that reduce? 1 lb? wow.
that's REALLY gonna help.
if you want speed. forget making your car look like crap. put a good WELL built engine in, and turbo.
the time and dollars is worth making your car a unstructurally safe heap of crap.
it's a honda. not a race car. reducing the car by 10lbs isnt gonna make you move faster. but engine work will.
08-Jul-2007, 05:20 PM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Ontario
Posts: 18,367
Before you modify any structure, you need a cage in there first to hold things in the right geometry.
Last time I was at Shannonville, there was a RSX pretty much lightened to the max. The rear spare tire well was replaced with a aluminum panel. But the car was also completely caged out.
Last time I was at Shannonville, there was a RSX pretty much lightened to the max. The rear spare tire well was replaced with a aluminum panel. But the car was also completely caged out.
08-Jul-2007, 10:22 PM
#12
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: South West Scarborough
Posts: 146
If you change the body much, you will need a cage.
Depending on what car you are trying to mod, yer weight should be easily around 2000lbs with driver and roll cage. If you have an EF/CRX you can get them much lighter, but will have issues keeping them in one piece. EG is a good middle-ground, while EKs are heavier. No idea how DA or DC 'tegs compare, but i know for certain the ITR is heavier than my CX hatch.
DJM:>
Depending on what car you are trying to mod, yer weight should be easily around 2000lbs with driver and roll cage. If you have an EF/CRX you can get them much lighter, but will have issues keeping them in one piece. EG is a good middle-ground, while EKs are heavier. No idea how DA or DC 'tegs compare, but i know for certain the ITR is heavier than my CX hatch.
DJM:>
08-Jul-2007, 10:48 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Ontario
Posts: 18,367
Anthony, you remembered what I said 
If the DA is going to be off road use only, you will need the following things (and depending on what type of racing you do):
- lexan windows all around (except drive and passenger side)
- cage
- hollow doors (door skins only)
- keep the front and rear rebar if the cage doesn't extend to these two points
- cut out any panel you don't need and replace with aluminum ones
- hollow dash to no dash
- sans air condition + heater
I think that should get to the goal you want.
If the DA is going to be off road use only, you will need the following things (and depending on what type of racing you do):
- lexan windows all around (except drive and passenger side)
- cage
- hollow doors (door skins only)
- keep the front and rear rebar if the cage doesn't extend to these two points
- cut out any panel you don't need and replace with aluminum ones
- hollow dash to no dash
- sans air condition + heater
I think that should get to the goal you want.
08-Jul-2007, 11:36 PM
#15
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Scarborough
Posts: 1,061
Originally posted by Nova_Dust
Before you modify any structure, you need a cage in there first to hold things in the right geometry.
Last time I was at Shannonville, there was a RSX pretty much lightened to the max. The rear spare tire well was replaced with a aluminum panel. But the car was also completely caged out.
Before you modify any structure, you need a cage in there first to hold things in the right geometry.
Last time I was at Shannonville, there was a RSX pretty much lightened to the max. The rear spare tire well was replaced with a aluminum panel. But the car was also completely caged out.
yea henry's track only RSX is pretty crazy
so is andre's itr
09-Jul-2007, 12:11 AM
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 227
List of things out of car.
-ac.
-ps.
-spare tire, jack, tire iron.
-back seats.
-rear wiper / motor.
-front sub frame replace with traction bar.
-trunk liner and plastic around the trunk.
-back speakers and speaker holders.
-power atenna / motor.
might have missed one or two things.
Current Wegiht 1120Kg.
Before Weight 1390Kg
-ac.
-ps.
-spare tire, jack, tire iron.
-back seats.
-rear wiper / motor.
-front sub frame replace with traction bar.
-trunk liner and plastic around the trunk.
-back speakers and speaker holders.
-power atenna / motor.
might have missed one or two things.
Current Wegiht 1120Kg.
Before Weight 1390Kg
09-Jul-2007, 12:58 PM
#17
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 90
get some dry ice and chisel out all the sound deadener on the floor.
it also makes a difference WHERE the weight is in your car. is it drag, or time attack? for drag, put weight forward, for time attack you want it low and in the middle. this is where relocating your battery and fuel tank can make a difference.
it also makes a difference WHERE the weight is in your car. is it drag, or time attack? for drag, put weight forward, for time attack you want it low and in the middle. this is where relocating your battery and fuel tank can make a difference.
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