Vafc question....
#7
Download the install manual, rip it out and re-install it by the manual. That's the only way you'll know for sure it's installed right. Plus you'll learn to do some things for yourself, step by step. That's how I started... I used to take parts off, clean them, grease up any moving parts, and put it back together. Just for fun.
#10
Originally posted by bbarbulo
This is why I said to download it... apexi's usa site in pretty good engrish
This is why I said to download it... apexi's usa site in pretty good engrish
:working: yah i'm pretty stupid but i'm really busy, why cant everything just work properly ? :fustrated
#12
i was never once f-ing around but the battery did run down and it needed a new battery, the old one couldn't hold anything (I kept the alarm on for a night, and it wouldn't start).
#14
I would quite disagree, about the tach being off by THAT much... that's not normal by any means. 2 rice 4 u, since Happy brought up the point about losing your settings, maybe the default reads a 6 cyl motor..... which would make your tach readings fucked. You have to tell it how many cyls it's reading for.
About the tach, when mine says the ************ is spinning at 7200 RPM, it really is cuz the fuel cutoff kicks in. So the tach and the ECU agree... honestly, I think you need to retune your VAFC cuz all the settings went to default. I can see it being off by like 50 rpm just cuz of the angle at which you look at it... but like 500 rpm, that's ridiculous. Honda would never put something like that in a car.... Ford maybe though... LOL I don't know if you guys remember the 90s Mustangs, at low speed their speedos would vary pretty widely.... they surged up instead of being a nice smooth curve Ooopps, I got off topic
About the tach, when mine says the ************ is spinning at 7200 RPM, it really is cuz the fuel cutoff kicks in. So the tach and the ECU agree... honestly, I think you need to retune your VAFC cuz all the settings went to default. I can see it being off by like 50 rpm just cuz of the angle at which you look at it... but like 500 rpm, that's ridiculous. Honda would never put something like that in a car.... Ford maybe though... LOL I don't know if you guys remember the 90s Mustangs, at low speed their speedos would vary pretty widely.... they surged up instead of being a nice smooth curve Ooopps, I got off topic
#16
Really rice... that's why there is an instructional manual you can download off the web... lemme put it to you this way... you car is fucked as it is, it's lost it's setting. Normally, someone *ahem* should have documented the settings at which he squeezed an extra 5 whp out of the B16, but he didn't so it's off to the dyno regardless. You ******* with it won't change anything.... worse comes to worse, you disconnect the battery again, and the settings go back to default and it runs just like it does right now. You will be no worse off by trying out a few things. Do you buy a magazine and then not read it cuz the pages might crinkle???? NO!!!! So use what you bought!!! :fustrated
#17
Originally posted by bbarbulo
Really rice... that's why there is an instructional manual you can download off the web... lemme put it to you this way... you car is fucked as it is, it's lost it's setting. Normally, someone *ahem* should have documented the settings at which he squeezed an extra 5 whp out of the B16, but he didn't so it's off to the dyno regardless. You ******* with it won't change anything.... worse comes to worse, you disconnect the battery again, and the settings go back to default and it runs just like it does right now. You will be no worse off by trying out a few things. Do you buy a magazine and then not read it cuz the pages might crinkle???? NO!!!! So use what you bought!!! :fustrated
Really rice... that's why there is an instructional manual you can download off the web... lemme put it to you this way... you car is fucked as it is, it's lost it's setting. Normally, someone *ahem* should have documented the settings at which he squeezed an extra 5 whp out of the B16, but he didn't so it's off to the dyno regardless. You ******* with it won't change anything.... worse comes to worse, you disconnect the battery again, and the settings go back to default and it runs just like it does right now. You will be no worse off by trying out a few things. Do you buy a magazine and then not read it cuz the pages might crinkle???? NO!!!! So use what you bought!!! :fustrated
#18
Wow, i wanted to ask a question about the VAFC too.
As some of you may know, the SAFC comes in 2 versions. The second is much better where you can adjust your fuel every 200 RPMs while the first one can do it every 500. Does the VAFC come in two versions or just one? I searched and i couldn't find it. I didnt do a search on here cause its disabled.
Also Bruno, how do you document the settings? My brother wants to get a VAFC and we've only found on version (I think there is only one) and hes gonna be going on the dyno to dyno tune it. Thanks
- Jacob
As some of you may know, the SAFC comes in 2 versions. The second is much better where you can adjust your fuel every 200 RPMs while the first one can do it every 500. Does the VAFC come in two versions or just one? I searched and i couldn't find it. I didnt do a search on here cause its disabled.
Also Bruno, how do you document the settings? My brother wants to get a VAFC and we've only found on version (I think there is only one) and hes gonna be going on the dyno to dyno tune it. Thanks
- Jacob
#19
The is only one version. Payne Tech in Detroit can tune it... they will most likely be doing my tuning after my initial setup. Tom is very knowledagble and will tune it a little safe, but still make all the power I'll ever need.
Documenting settings, just make a spreadsheet of every stage of tuning and write down every parameter and the resulting figures... also if you can, link it to a dyno chart for each pull. The one that stays is the one you rebuild the parameters from if you ever gotta take the battery out.
Documenting settings, just make a spreadsheet of every stage of tuning and write down every parameter and the resulting figures... also if you can, link it to a dyno chart for each pull. The one that stays is the one you rebuild the parameters from if you ever gotta take the battery out.