johnny23toronto

BBarbulo and others,

do you think the T25 for sale right now is a bit too "light" for my B18B? I've been reading around and these are great turbos, but I can't find nearly as many on B series motors as I can for D series.

My intentions would be a very mild setup, with fast spooling, and minimal mods. I'm rather happy with my power as it is, and I'd realistically be happy with a few more horses and a nice hisssss from the turbo...
I'm guessing 5-7 lbs of boost will make me jolly. I'd like my B18B to put out around 25-35 more horses than it does now, but more importantly, to have a higher powerband across the board.

*This is a daily driver.* I don't care much for racing other cars.

I finally bought myself a lincoln mig welder... so I can make the charge pipes and maybe even try the header mod myself too.

Also, as a minimum, how does this shopping list sound:

1) Prelude fuel pump
2) Intercooler
3) Vortec FMU (is this cheapest decent "safe" FMU?, recommendations?) (As for the FPR, can I stay with the stock FPR or do I have to buy an adjustable one too)
4) Local fish supply store for check valve mod for MAP...
5) Exhaust Manifold
6) Misc. Piping and tubing
7) Gauges, oil, boost, a/f
8) Oil Pan return line stuff...
9) Full 2.25 exhaust with el'cheapo large diameter universal muffler (I hate noisy exhausts), or I'll buy my buddies WRX muffler.
10) Wastegate: Any good inexpensive new one. (Drag or Revhard I guess)
11) BOV


With the above fuel mods, I've read that I can keep my stock injectors, is this true?

Also, what fuel pressure do I need and what boost pressure should I aim for? Can the stock fuel rail handle it?

I want to play things safe... no fires, no detonation, no blown motor!

Your recommendations are sooo appreciated. Thanks

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

I didn't look closely, but I think that T25 is internally gated... no need for the wastegate. What injectors and what boost control? Instead of getting a boost gauge get a turbo timer... same price, and it displays the boost plus allows cool down of turbo... $90 USD or so for the Blitz unit... only one that displays boost.

T25 is a tiny turbo, but for what you need it'll do. 20-30 hp is a realistic goal... problem is... you won't be able to push much air at 6000 rpm. Cuz cfm stays down while pressure PSI increases... so it's better to get a larger turbo and run lower pressure but run bigger cfm numbers. How much are you looking to spend??

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

gold thing in first pic is an internal wastegate

Ok, that kit is sooooo far from complete. The turbo is too small. My turbo alone cost as much as his kit. Plus I have proper fuel management (440 cc and SAFC plus 255 lph Holley pump) and no need for check valves. Look at how much injectors and pump are alone... plus the computer... and the turbo. I have I think (not sure) $2700+ in my kit so far. And I still need lines and piping, plus manifold. Everything else I got.

sugarcane

Yeah definitely need the Turbo Timer, you don't want that baby suffocating on its own vomit well....you can go without a boost & oil pressure gauge, but its always nice to monitor things. Setting the wastegate can limit boost, but an occassional spike may occur.

If your thinking about picking that up, check for shaft play on the turbo..a lil is ok...a lot is a no no. I would also pressure test the IC to see if theres a leak; because when you have everything all setup and your not reading any boost....hmmm....what could it be....vac leak.

Yeah i wouldn't doubt you'll hit full boost by 5k, which is good for daily driven. Get a dump tube, so when you really wanna boot it flick-ova-switch. 5-7psi is safe on a FMU....but i wouldn't up it too much. And make sure you gravity feed the oil line properly.

imported_Torrey

You dont need a turbo timer. Its all bullshit.

Your turbine housing won't be anymore worn then if you didn't turbo time your car. Sure if you make some hard pulls, let it cool down, but for daily driving you don't need a turbo timer.

But if you'd like the cool effect of your car shutting off 2 min after you've walked away from it, then by all means

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

oil bearings get coaked in oil and will start to bind... How do you think a turbo fails? Extreme heat breaks down most oils to some extent.

johnny23toronto

Questions:
1) Ok Gravity feeding the oil line? Does that simply mean I better tap into the drain pan properly, and run the lines to the turbo in a smooth fashion?

2) When I pick a FMU, how will I ever determine what ratio to go with, i.e., 12:1 etc. Anyone know of any good (internet site) setups for a B18B with stock internals and low boost? I've done lots of reading, but people skip over these things sometimes.

3) Dump tube!... I think that the electronic switches to operate the valves on one of these things is prohibitively expensive. Even reputable muffler shops say that "they were a fad, that all leaked with time, and that's why you don't see them anymore".
I'd love a dump tube, but it seems unrealistic. Any thoughts?



Remember NOWBOOSTING's post? Sweeeeet

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

1) it's the return line... use a big *** return line cuz the oil coming out is a foam, not a liquid... so it needs lots of room to drain... use a big *** hose, and route it so it's always sloping down since only gravity is returning the oil.

2) Dunno **** about FMUs, I'm using a piggyback Generally though, the most common one I've seen is the 12:1 disk. I'd start there. I think that's how many psi fuel pressure increase per psi of boost... which is not good. You see triple digit fuel pressures which could easily stick your injectors open Again, I'm not using this, so I don't know.

3) Never heard of this dump tube... by the sounds of it, it sounds like a ghetto boost controller

imported_Torrey

no no no

I had a dump tube on my talon. It was attached to the o2 sensor housing, with another pipe welded to it shooting downward. The whole idea behind this is when you go WOT, the air will shoot out through the hole, instead of going through the entire exhaust.

See what I mean, better spoooling, quicker power

When your off the boost, your car sounds normal, when your on it, it sounds like a motorcycle with a turbo

Its cheap and a LOT of people actually have them. But remember its totally illegal!

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

Hmmmm it makes sense... but I'm just gonna dump under the pan regardless.... I just passed emissions, and I'm pissed about having to do it, so in spite I'll be running exhaustless for the next two years j/k

imported_94EG6HB

Clean air test..

Bah...

Buddah

http://www.torontocivics.com/tccforu...0&pagenumber=1

take a look at this thread...I'm asking 1900 for all turbo parts without the block and ARP kit...if you're interested, let me know...

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

^^^ That's why I asked him how much he's looking to spend, but the other thing is only $450... wayyyy far from complete though