suspension problems
16-Mar-2004, 08:48 AM
#42
Luka
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 14,319
ok so new top hats will only be about $12 each...do they make that much of a difference? for so cheap that would be great...also gonna get buddy to do tie rods and lower ball joints and camber kit. First i gotta take my suspension apart again and cut the bump stops and make sure everything was assembled properly when we did it the first time.
16-Mar-2004, 09:02 AM
#43
if your bump stops weren't cut, that was a big part of your problem then!
it's hard to say... I mean some cars have really bad upper mounts... but being 15 years old, why the hell not replace them? For $12 it can't hurt.
it's hard to say... I mean some cars have really bad upper mounts... but being 15 years old, why the hell not replace them? For $12 it can't hurt.
16-Mar-2004, 09:37 AM
#46
Luka
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 14,319
yea bruno my bump stops werent cut...can you explain how this effects the ride i dont really understand fully. anyways, should i chop 1inch all around? or should i find out what eibach recommends because its the spring ppl that recommend the cutting not the shock people from what i gathered?
16-Mar-2004, 09:46 AM
#47
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Montreal
Posts: 4,508
cut the bottem half of the bump stop off...
and if you dont have dust covers on, you wont have to dissassemble anything, just use a sharp razor, make an insision around, then vertical, and peel it off the strut rod.. If u have dust covers on... good luck, another 4 hours in the garage lol.
and if you dont have dust covers on, you wont have to dissassemble anything, just use a sharp razor, make an insision around, then vertical, and peel it off the strut rod.. If u have dust covers on... good luck, another 4 hours in the garage lol.
16-Mar-2004, 09:49 AM
#48
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Montreal
Posts: 4,508
oh and it affects the ride beacuse when you lower the car with springs the shock travel almost completely dimineshes...
so what happens is your basically riding on your bumpstops, like all your dampening goes into the foam instead of the shock, so your gonna bounce all over the place
if u have the dust covers off you can see what i mean.... just look at how compressed the strut rod is while the car is on the ground. I bet your sitting on the bumpstops under normal compression
so what happens is your basically riding on your bumpstops, like all your dampening goes into the foam instead of the shock, so your gonna bounce all over the place
if u have the dust covers off you can see what i mean.... just look at how compressed the strut rod is while the car is on the ground. I bet your sitting on the bumpstops under normal compression
otherwise im sure CT has cheapo ones... Tehy are fairly universal...not application specific...
16-Mar-2004, 10:04 AM
#53
Luka
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 14,319
ok ill look into that...and cut the bottom half...thanks for saying that cuz that was my next question...hopefully everything will be nice and tight after...i get so jealous when i see another ef fly by and not moving and then there's me being all carefull cuz my **** is so bouncy 
16-Mar-2004, 10:15 AM
#54
Ok, say you have 4 inches of travel at stock height - 1 inch for the bump stop, that's 3 inches. And you lower your car 1.5 inches, so you have 1.5 inches of travel now. So every bump you hit that's fairly large, the bump stop contacts the shock body and your spring rate effectively goes to infinity (since you hit a "solid" peice of rubber) - so your car bounces up and out of control. If you cut the lower half of the bump stop you gain back some of that lost travel, which may not seem like much, BUT it really allows to spring (esp a progressive eibach!) to get into the higher rates where there is less give in the spring. So rather than bouncing off the bump stop at infinite spring rate, you hit a point at the spring where it's... say 325 lb/inch rates rather than infinite. So now your shocks and springs can work together to soak up the bumps. This is why H&Rs have gained in popularity, the linear rates mean basically that you don't have this initial area of the spring where the rates are real low - and as a result you get more consistent and predictable results and less body roll. But even with the proper setup on eibachs, I think you'll notice a marked improvement in ride quality and control/handling as well. When I had GC coilovers I cut my metal dustboots down, that was required. For you, you can cut them or just get some cheapo rubber ones. I'd recommend rubber ones for all-season driving. KYB make those, and upper mounts too.
16-Mar-2004, 11:35 AM
#58
