super charger?
#41
Originally posted by brianmcgaugh
Yea the high IAT's got him big time. both times it was at the track, numerous runs with not enough cool down in between, in the mid of summer
If i ever did go SC id spend the $900 no problem to drop IAT 75-100 deg. Lowering IAT is so important on a FI engine as were compressing air for an intake charge, the thing is that when we compress we not only increase the pressure/density but also create heat and the heat created inturn decreases the density(density is the important factor in FI not boost). so we want to make the most boost with the least amount of heat (IAT), resulting in the higest density and the most efficient intake.
I forget where i remember this from but i remember hearing for every "11deg in IAT youll gain 1% in HP"
Yea the high IAT's got him big time. both times it was at the track, numerous runs with not enough cool down in between, in the mid of summer
If i ever did go SC id spend the $900 no problem to drop IAT 75-100 deg. Lowering IAT is so important on a FI engine as were compressing air for an intake charge, the thing is that when we compress we not only increase the pressure/density but also create heat and the heat created inturn decreases the density(density is the important factor in FI not boost). so we want to make the most boost with the least amount of heat (IAT), resulting in the higest density and the most efficient intake.
I forget where i remember this from but i remember hearing for every "11deg in IAT youll gain 1% in HP"
I heard that somewhere.. I forget where though, somebody into mustangs once told me something like 12 deg is 1%. Anyway, that's why supercharging a honda is not really worth it, because the money you spend to get into the mid to high 200hp mark is ****ing high..
Your going to spend atleast $2000-$3000 on a JRSC kit.. add another $1200 CDN for an LHT aftercooler. That rightt here is around $3000 min. Of course there are ways around it.. like buying a used S/C. But when its all said and done with tuning, fuel system upgrade, clutch, GOOD header, exhaust, blah blah.. your looking at $5000. And with 5 grand you can make one hell of a turbo kit with high quality new parts... and possibly a BB turbo
#43
if you can do all of the labour yourself you can easily turbo a honda with $2500 using all new parts (not including tuning).
But to buy a good quality prefabbed kit ($3000-6000) and pay someone to install it and tune it you should prolly save up around $5000...realistically.
Things add up quickly, next thing you know you need a boost controller, then you'll need a catch can/krank vent mini setup, then you'll need a boost guage, then you'll want a turbo timer, etc etc.
The Vortec supercharger kit isn't cheap either.
People have problems with boost b/c they wanna cut corners and do it as cheap as possible. They'll skimp on injectors or engine management, or think they don't need a tune and can get by with just a FMU, then get bored of 8psi and turn it up, then boom, they realize a FMU isn't gunna cut it when they grenade the engine b/c the extremely high fuel pressure fried the stock fuel pump on a hard pull.
This can happen on both turbo or supercharged applications.
Then you see those boosted cars that pull hard, make nice numbers and are reliable as hell. I know there are lots of setups like this b/c i've built/tuned plenty of them, and they are still going strong. Hell, plenty of them daily drive, year round their boosted honda...this is what is pushing me so damn close to crossing over to the dark side and turboing my year round daily driver.
But to buy a good quality prefabbed kit ($3000-6000) and pay someone to install it and tune it you should prolly save up around $5000...realistically.
Things add up quickly, next thing you know you need a boost controller, then you'll need a catch can/krank vent mini setup, then you'll need a boost guage, then you'll want a turbo timer, etc etc.
The Vortec supercharger kit isn't cheap either.
People have problems with boost b/c they wanna cut corners and do it as cheap as possible. They'll skimp on injectors or engine management, or think they don't need a tune and can get by with just a FMU, then get bored of 8psi and turn it up, then boom, they realize a FMU isn't gunna cut it when they grenade the engine b/c the extremely high fuel pressure fried the stock fuel pump on a hard pull.
This can happen on both turbo or supercharged applications.
Then you see those boosted cars that pull hard, make nice numbers and are reliable as hell. I know there are lots of setups like this b/c i've built/tuned plenty of them, and they are still going strong. Hell, plenty of them daily drive, year round their boosted honda...this is what is pushing me so damn close to crossing over to the dark side and turboing my year round daily driver.
#45
Originally posted by Pyro
Hey which one is better JRSC or a Vortech SC??
seems like everyone on superhonda.com is going with JRSC
Hey which one is better JRSC or a Vortech SC??
seems like everyone on superhonda.com is going with JRSC
I know they are both high quality though, so you can't really go wrong.
#47
#49
sorry to thread jack in a way..but i remember listening on a discussion where it was pointed out that it would be smarter to sc a vtec honda vs. a non vtec model as opposed to a turbo..
and if i remember correctly the reason being is that the sc complimented the sc powerband alot better vs a turbo..
can anyone prove or disprove this?
and if i remember correctly the reason being is that the sc complimented the sc powerband alot better vs a turbo..
can anyone prove or disprove this?
#51
Originally posted by chris_si98
I found a perfect video that explains how to find all your answers!
I found a perfect video that explains how to find all your answers!
#52
I have a JRSC kit for GSR ($600) if ur intrested and/orif u have q's Pyro PM me
kit includes:
- S/c
- manifold
- alternator pulley
- FMU
- HKS VAFC
missing: alternator bracket and pulley bracket ($500 for both) from Jrsc website aswell as belts
kit includes:
- S/c
- manifold
- alternator pulley
- FMU
- HKS VAFC
missing: alternator bracket and pulley bracket ($500 for both) from Jrsc website aswell as belts
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