Suggestions for B16A2 -> B18Cx Turbo
#1
Suggestions for B16A2 -> B18Cx Turbo
Hey all,
In a couple months I'll have the money to purchase the B18 of my choice. It's going to be going into a 6th gen '00 Civic Coupe SiR, which currently has a ODB2 B16A2 all stock (with exception to intake and exhaust). I have a few questions that some might be able to help with:
Which B18 is best for me matching this criteria?
ODB1(for tuning purposes w/ a turbo setup)
DOHC VTEC
Ability to handle a turbo with serious boost after plenty of engine work, shooting for 12-16lbs of boost.
Would the answer simple be the B18C5/6?
As well, the car has to be RELIABLE, it is a daily driver and NOT a track car, I want to spend the appropriate amount of money and do things right, maintaining such systems as ABS, A/C, and a B18 VTEC head. I want to step up to the DOHC B18 VTEC, no other engine. So the question remains, which one is best for my needs?
Also, which stage 3 clutch and flywheel combo on the market today is best for a turbo'd DOHC B18 VTEC? I want something that I can setup with my current B16A2, and will allow me the headroom to move up to the B18 turbo setup down the road...I'm sure stage 3 is sufficient for daily street use - again, this is NOT a track car...just some serious horsepower and torque for the street.
I've heard a few suggestions, most being these clutches:
Daikin:
http://www.daikin-clutch.com/product...ate%20Organic:
ACT:
http://www.advancedclutch.com/produc...eries,%20220mm
Clutchmasters:
http://www.clutchmasters.com/shop/?p...003&AppID=5198
Hopefully someone can shed some light on things... I really dont know which way to go at this point.
In a couple months I'll have the money to purchase the B18 of my choice. It's going to be going into a 6th gen '00 Civic Coupe SiR, which currently has a ODB2 B16A2 all stock (with exception to intake and exhaust). I have a few questions that some might be able to help with:
Which B18 is best for me matching this criteria?
ODB1(for tuning purposes w/ a turbo setup)
DOHC VTEC
Ability to handle a turbo with serious boost after plenty of engine work, shooting for 12-16lbs of boost.
Would the answer simple be the B18C5/6?
As well, the car has to be RELIABLE, it is a daily driver and NOT a track car, I want to spend the appropriate amount of money and do things right, maintaining such systems as ABS, A/C, and a B18 VTEC head. I want to step up to the DOHC B18 VTEC, no other engine. So the question remains, which one is best for my needs?
Also, which stage 3 clutch and flywheel combo on the market today is best for a turbo'd DOHC B18 VTEC? I want something that I can setup with my current B16A2, and will allow me the headroom to move up to the B18 turbo setup down the road...I'm sure stage 3 is sufficient for daily street use - again, this is NOT a track car...just some serious horsepower and torque for the street.
I've heard a few suggestions, most being these clutches:
Daikin:
http://www.daikin-clutch.com/product...ate%20Organic:
ACT:
http://www.advancedclutch.com/produc...eries,%20220mm
Clutchmasters:
http://www.clutchmasters.com/shop/?p...003&AppID=5198
Hopefully someone can shed some light on things... I really dont know which way to go at this point.
#2
too lazy to read your whole post..
but boost your b16a2. It's a perfect candidate and you dont have to spend another 3500$ on a gsr. B18c5's are out of the question...
12-16psi means nothing.. think in terms of whp instead of psi, psi is different in every setup.
I've never bother to research b-series blocks or anything but I'm pretty sure you can be at 250whp+ with a stock block (someone correct me if I'm wrong)
And for a daily driver that is way more than enough.
And with any build or f/i application, tuning is vital to your engine's life and reliabilty. Get it dynotuned with a program such as crome, hondata, uberdata, etc.
edit:link
but boost your b16a2. It's a perfect candidate and you dont have to spend another 3500$ on a gsr. B18c5's are out of the question...
12-16psi means nothing.. think in terms of whp instead of psi, psi is different in every setup.
I've never bother to research b-series blocks or anything but I'm pretty sure you can be at 250whp+ with a stock block (someone correct me if I'm wrong)
And for a daily driver that is way more than enough.
And with any build or f/i application, tuning is vital to your engine's life and reliabilty. Get it dynotuned with a program such as crome, hondata, uberdata, etc.
edit:link
#4
when i went to the H/T meet back in MAY... a guy in a silver SIR boosted was pushing 237whp @ 7psi.... now not bad, but he also warned me that u will get hungry for more.. and at that time he had another BLock getting machined for higher HP!
for me, i think reliability would be key, HIGH HP means nothing without good suspension work to keep those ponies to the ground.as well
i say build your B16 and it will make great numbers!
trust me a stock block will only last so long if u decide to get boost hungry!
for me, i think reliability would be key, HIGH HP means nothing without good suspension work to keep those ponies to the ground.as well
i say build your B16 and it will make great numbers!
trust me a stock block will only last so long if u decide to get boost hungry!
#5
I would also consider boosting your b16. But if your set on the b18's then so be it, its your car.
I would go with the b18c1 in that case. It fits all your needs. But if your going to seriously build it dont boost below 15psi, otherwise its a waste.
And like was said, do not consider the b18c5. The compression on it is too high for turbo. Your going to need to lower the compression, so you might as well just stick with a b18c1. I know the b18c5 is all prepped from the factory, but if your building your engine I think you'll do those things yourself.
Oh, and go with ACT.
I would go with the b18c1 in that case. It fits all your needs. But if your going to seriously build it dont boost below 15psi, otherwise its a waste.
And like was said, do not consider the b18c5. The compression on it is too high for turbo. Your going to need to lower the compression, so you might as well just stick with a b18c1. I know the b18c5 is all prepped from the factory, but if your building your engine I think you'll do those things yourself.
Oh, and go with ACT.
#6
I would say either go GSR or pick up an LS block for prolly 1/3 the cost of the GSR. Yes you wont have vtec but you could always add it on down the road. It really depends what kinda goals you have for your setup, whether its strictly gonna be a street car or if its gonna be a track ***** can change the whole setup.
As for your clutch question a Clutchmasters Stage 3 would be my suggestion, not too stiff but grabs like a b****.
As for your clutch question a Clutchmasters Stage 3 would be my suggestion, not too stiff but grabs like a b****.
#8
Excellent...so much help here, you guys rule. Thanks so much!
Would my best bet be to buy a B18C1 head, and just put a different block on it? Does the B18C1 head bolt up to the CRV block? Would a B18C1 VTEC head with a CRV block suit my needs for boost? Ahhhh so many questions left unanswered...
Would my best bet be to buy a B18C1 head, and just put a different block on it? Does the B18C1 head bolt up to the CRV block? Would a B18C1 VTEC head with a CRV block suit my needs for boost? Ahhhh so many questions left unanswered...
#9
i would say prep your b16 for a nice boost....
swapping in/out from a b16 to a b18 wastes some money and labour.... suppose you get 2500 for your b16 and you find a b18c1 for 3500... then you're boosting it with 2500 (along with some proper tuning) but you still haven't prep the internals of the c1 for higher boost
but if you spend that 1-2 g onto prepping the b16, it can take on any lbs of boost anytime.... piston, studs, rods, lower the comrpession a bit more.. cams for turbo appz.... then do a good turbo setup (gather your own parts)... boost 12-16psi... proper tuning... you would be quite surprise where you're at =)
one thing... i don't think you could or should retain a/c if you're boosting..... someone follow up on this, because i want to know if its possible to safely retain a/c if i boost...
swapping in/out from a b16 to a b18 wastes some money and labour.... suppose you get 2500 for your b16 and you find a b18c1 for 3500... then you're boosting it with 2500 (along with some proper tuning) but you still haven't prep the internals of the c1 for higher boost
but if you spend that 1-2 g onto prepping the b16, it can take on any lbs of boost anytime.... piston, studs, rods, lower the comrpession a bit more.. cams for turbo appz.... then do a good turbo setup (gather your own parts)... boost 12-16psi... proper tuning... you would be quite surprise where you're at =)
one thing... i don't think you could or should retain a/c if you're boosting..... someone follow up on this, because i want to know if its possible to safely retain a/c if i boost...
#10
why are you spending the extra money for the extra .2 litres if you plan to boost anyways? you can boost and still retain a/c. you just have to get a manifold that's compatible. just spend the money on a turbo kit and call it a day! you're not looking to have a monster 400whp turbo car are you? i've seen the b16s pushing that much built.
#12
Originally posted by t_dot_SiR
haha i thought turbo with a/c is not that safe
because you're having all your rads, FMIC, condenser all trying to fight for cooling air haha
haha i thought turbo with a/c is not that safe
because you're having all your rads, FMIC, condenser all trying to fight for cooling air haha
#13
keep your b16 no point in selling
1) if you want to go obd-1 get a conversion harness.
2)12-16psi is alot and please give us a WHP goal that you have in mind so we can help you get there
3)what is your budget?
4) for more safe hp get some low compression pistons some rods, head bolts, new head gasket.
5)if your serious you can get a intake manifoild throttle body and a 3" exhaust
I made and am still currently running 12.4 psi on my b16 (completely stock internals) and make 300whp with 213wtrq, believe me it moves hard.
tunning is everything get a good tune and reliability is alot better.
1) if you want to go obd-1 get a conversion harness.
2)12-16psi is alot and please give us a WHP goal that you have in mind so we can help you get there
3)what is your budget?
4) for more safe hp get some low compression pistons some rods, head bolts, new head gasket.
5)if your serious you can get a intake manifoild throttle body and a 3" exhaust
I made and am still currently running 12.4 psi on my b16 (completely stock internals) and make 300whp with 213wtrq, believe me it moves hard.
tunning is everything get a good tune and reliability is alot better.
#16
tuning is very important in boosted motors. you can turbo a b18c5 motor and still be safe. there's more detonation in high compression motors which can be dangerous if not tuned properly. if you're going the turbo route, tuning is KEY!
#18
yeah... why go buy something when u hve a rockin engine...
B16's are very nice engines....
blah bigger displacement for what????
my buddy has a 400whp B16 - just bored out... but now that he is hungry for power and the car aint street legal... then i can see you going this route!!
trust me.... once u feel the kick... u will be happy and like Weir said... build and grab your parts for your internals!
B16's are very nice engines....
blah bigger displacement for what????
my buddy has a 400whp B16 - just bored out... but now that he is hungry for power and the car aint street legal... then i can see you going this route!!
trust me.... once u feel the kick... u will be happy and like Weir said... build and grab your parts for your internals!
#19
Nice, thanks guys... I'm going to decide which route I go over this coming winter I think, either way, tuning is definately where some of the budget money is going to go...no question about that. Thanks for your input everyone.
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