Strut Tower Bar Install
 

Hey guys...

The P/S forum is kinda slow, so here is a discussion topic. My buddy and I discussed this at great length a couple of weeks ago, and we did not see eye to eye on the issue. Also assume here the use of OEM-like braces with NO pivot points, and assume NO flex in the bracing.

Every twat knows how to put a strut tower bar on... that's not the question. The REAL question is how to set the pre-load for the bar. It is my position that the bar is to be left loose, car lowered on all four wheels on level ground, and then torqued down. It is my buddy's position that the strut bars are to be installed AND torqued down with the vehicle up in the air (but still level). I understand his position of taking the weight off the wheels and thus un-stressing the chassis, then applying bracing... the lowering the car back on the ground. I understand what he's saying, and I see where he's gone wrong in his thinking. However, I was unable to convince him. IMO, the car was never intended to have the wheels NOT loaded, so there is no point in bracing it when NOT loaded. The best thing to do is to set a baseline of the vehicle loaded but at rest, THEN brace it. That way, the chassis is braced at rest.

I'd like everyone's input as to what you have done/would do when installing your braces. Your reasoning behind it in great detail please.

its supposed to be done on the ground...its a brace not a actual structure of the car...if you do it when the car is unloaded you are putting extra load on the mounting point which you dont want to do...its there to limit chassis flex not to eliminate it. its like putting a knee brace on too tight while your knee is up...feels good when ur knee is up but when u let it down and you joint has load on it its tight as a mofo!

thats why its a brace...and even so...the pre-measured no joint ones mostlikely wont fit with no load on the suspension

bottom line its a brace to limit chassis flex and if its on too tight you can damage the bar itself or the mounting points on the car from undo stress

thats my story and I'm stickin to it

I would do it while the car is on the ground because I can't reach engine bay area while the car is 6' off the ground....

Cynical--- very well put!!! but the OEM bars are slotted slightly, so they'd still fit.

ah...I dont think the nuespeed bars are slotted at all though (could be wrong) but still, loaded is the way to do it...unloaded is foolish!

cuz the way ur buddy says to do it is now pushing out the strut towers from each other (can create suspension geometry problems like camber etc when car is lowered down)

smack that friend in the head with the bar and tell him to listen to reason! hahahaha

On the ground... if u do it in the air, then put it back on the ground there will be constant stress on the brace and shock mounts eventually leading to wear and tear on the parts... The bar should be stressed when its required to do its job not 24 /7!

This also goes for lower tie bars, install, drop the car, tighten... this way the frame retains its natural geometry, and wont put access stress on the controll arm mounting points/bolts...

so everyone so far agrees with me... good stuff :thumbup:

:nods:

that must make you feel all warm and fuzzy inside huh?

....

bahaahah :nods:

I agree with, no point in re-stating everything that was said already :p

in the air = more preload when lowered ..

on the ground = less preload....

personally either way is fine .... in my opinion.... for racing I'll probably torque it in the air ... just for more preload...



anyways maybe Stewpiddass who works in a honda factory can tell us which order honda does it it? wheels unloaded or loaded...

I do see both sides of the argument I just don't think the preload would be that much or make that big a difference... the bar like other suspension parts will still settle a bit over time .....

correct also to much preload on the bar will pop out your windshield from the amount of flex from the chasis.:smoker: