imported_BoOsTd

2 nights ago, I hop in my car, drop the parking brake and the car didnt roll (parked on a slight incline, car always rolls back) So I give it abit of gas and i can hear my rear right shoes dragging. And the car lifted abit on that side (plus i jacked it up and right tire didnt spin. left spun freely) so i know 100% its only the one side.

I went for short drive hopeing the the warmth would free it up and it did (abit) enough for it roll back but slower than usual.

So I parked it again pulled the ebrake cable, bam same thing right wheel wouldnt relese, so i pulled her into the shop and parked it for the night:cry:

So yeasterday I did a complete tear down and rebuild and replaced the wheel cylender because it was the only part on my rear brakes that wernt paractically brand new (did the left wheel cyclender when i did my new shoes and drums last season)

Got it all back together, bled the lines ect, adjusted the parking brake, and everything was perfect no sticky no nothing mint brakes again!

Jump in my car this morning release the parking brake and i can hear it dragging again slightly. Not as bad tho, but i know its dragging cuz i can feel it from a complete stop...


So what do you guys think is the culprit here, worn sticky ebrake cable on that side? Or could it be the bottom return spring worn out ( its the original spring, but still feels pretty stiff and its not deformed in any way..).

Im thinking the spring maybe, and all the new greese on the backing plate from the rebuild was just assisting it move better, hence the reason its not "as bad" as before the rebuild.

I want to be sure, cuz a parking brake is a big job i dont feel like doing unless i have to.

For now Im useing my tranny as a kickstand lol not parking on hills... and its doesnt stick from just applying the regular brakes.

Cynikal.Mindset

check the cables at the handbrake and maybe lube them up there...it would save you from takin the brakes apart and u could see the condition of the cable and adjuster there, could be that it just needs adjusting there...as u know the adjuster should be "square" with both cables, not one pulling on it more

I'd check that first and go from there

imported_BoOsTd

yah i did that right after I rebuilt the drum setup.... I cant really see anywhere to lube up tho, like after all the cable is about 4 feet long could be binding up anywhere.... I adjusted the cable to 7 clicks fully applied the bracket is squared up and the wheels spin freely on 1 and 2 clicks. as per OEM recomendation.

Im thinking I could replace just the right cable to keep the cost down, or do both sides need to be changed all in one?

Cynikal.Mindset

u can change one at a time.

and if ur gonna change it you might aswell get a new cobi-kit for the drums and change out all the old stuff, combi-kits are cheap anyways and it'll save ya from having to pull it apart again...heck do that first to see if that solves the problem cuz cables are pretty expensive

imported_BoOsTd

Yah i was thinking that also... Honda doesnt make a "spring Kit" so it would probably addup, i guess ill try some aftermarket parts places. gonna price out a new cable for ****s and kicks too... Im scared to find out what they cost lol.

Cynikal.Mindset

when I priced out a cable at my shop for my car it was like $70 or something...combi-kits are like $10

autoparts jobbers will have everything u need, refrain from crappy tire it'll cost u your first born there!

imported_BoOsTd

lol...

Spring kit both sides at my local parts dealer (MAP) 14.00$ both sides.

Now get this... This was very shocking.

Their price on the Cable 41.00$ per side aftermarket

Hondas OEM Price : 31$ per side wtf? lol I thought everything OEM was more expensive.

for 31$ a side ill just replace everything ... I was expecting her to say 60- 80 $ a side or something

00 Civic SiR

I'd like to know the outcome of all this...

Thanks

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

prolly worn cable lining, then salt/water got in and starting to sieze it up... I think that calls for a new cable. When you release the e-brake handle, check for slack at the the T bracket (under the armrest, and then check for slack on the brake itself). If the cable is free to move, and the tire still won't spin, then maybe the brakes were assembled wrong. The return springs usually last longer than the car itself, it's rarely ever the springs.

imported_BoOsTd

I double checked everything, (cable seatment, brake lever, adjuster, return spring seatment ect ect... its definately assembled right, and it worked fine for the past year. Another note, it was a warm wet slushy day and then we had a cold snap while it was sitting...


Gonna order the cable, only 30$ so whatever... Just not looking forward to the job looks like a PITA

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

Actually, the cable change itself is pretty straight forward. The right side is a little bit tougher cuz the exhaust heat shield is in the way, so it would help if you unhooked the exhaust from the hangers.

imported_BoOsTd

well that makes me feel better lol... The heat sheild has already been removed due to the rusted bolts makeing it rattle... maybe the heat from my exhaust ****ed the cable sleeve cuz i removed the shild... Is it close enough/ hot enough to affect the cable u think? If so im gonna put the sheild back on... get some new bolts ect...

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

yeah it's close enough to melt the jacket that protects it from the elements.

imported_BoOsTd

that must be what happened then, cuz i started my car that day before my replacemnt showed up to warm it up, and he ended up being late, forgot all about my car friggin thing idled for like 10 mins... just sitting there and it wasnt too cold out...

I guess im putting the heat sheild back on, and replaceing the cable...

imported_BoOsTd

I Just finished installing the new cable, there was one bracket that almost made me loose my mind, total PITA to get at with a wrench or ratchet...

Anyway it seems to be working well so far, and i put the heat shield back on cuz the cable literally sits less than an inch from the exhaust... I have a good feeling that was the cause of all this, cuz the cable isnt protected well in the spot that sits behind the heat shield...

So lesson learned do not remove the rear heat shild, it actually serves a purpose... unlike the fronts that just rattle

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

LOL, actually ALL heat shields serve a purpose, I highly recommend keeping them on... if you work on cars as much as I have, you'll notice bolts in close proximity of any heat source like the exhaust are hella hard to remove.

imported_BoOsTd

this is true, I had to gather up some of the old bolts laying in my toolcabnet from the other heatshilds to get the rear on nice and snug...So noone left for the front ones, I should splurge and get a whole set of new bolts get them all back on nice and tight...

You have to admit tho a rattly heat shild makes your car sound like a big POS.. Previous solution ripem out LOL (not a good idea)

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

spring the bux for some stainless steel bolts. I know I will!!