markpa

Me an my dad finally yanked both engines out of the car, I bored a lift from a buddy, cause we couldnt budge the engine in the trunk. So step one is done. Next step , im gunna try to figure out the damm wiring, or get sum1 to do if for cheap....

I know im gunna need to extend wires etc,...where do u guys recommand i buy my wires....and other things i would need to finsih the wiring.

heres some pics.







edit: fixed your last pic

white92d15b7

looking good man keep up the good work it truly is awsome seeing someone do something to there car there self and not just walking into a fancy place and slapping some money and there car keys on a counter and coming back a few days later!!!!!

markpa

lol yeah thats cause i haveno more money, just enough for the parts i need, lol, ..it will be a learning experience, ill never forgot.
So do u guys know or suggest a place to buy good wire?

Gunmetalef

go to any parts store.. even CT should have some.. use 18 guage shielded wire.. don't pay some1 to do the wiring and do it yourself.. you seem pretty eager to learn and it isn't TOO hard.. so jump into it..

brianmcgaugh

You have a wiring diagram?

dingus88

here's a pretty good step by step guide for b16 install:

http://www.phatwhippincrx.20m.com/custom.html

white92d15b7

imagine how you will feel pulling onto the highway in second or third gear and you feel the pull/sound of vtec and you can say to yourself FAWK MAN i hooked that up I DID THAT !!!! it sure brings a smile to my face when i can enjoy one of my modifications for the first time and the next 1000 after that

imported_loudsubz

i am scared ****less when i do major mods on my car lol

only because i have a fear that I always forget something even when i triple check my work, always something in the back of my mind driving me crazy that i didn't do something right and its gonnas break down again lol

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

totally!!

imported_viper_2_4

looks good, what are you swaping in there??

imported_crXtasy

i think everyone has those feelings, its just that the overly confident people learn to block them out

T-Shirt Ninja

I've learned to block out those thoughts, cause the way I see it, is if you think your gonna screw something up, you are.

Anyhow, keep up the good work markpa, you'll enjoy the car a lot more if you diy.

Cynikal.Mindset

u should really remove the hood...would make things sooo much easier...other than that good work!

markpa

yup..ill be doing doing that when i drop the motor in.


Oh and a b16motor is going in
I knew i could use those dirty seats fior something



AN a nother note, ive got this part harness that Hyperflow gave me, just wondering do i plug that in and extend the wires to my exisitng harness wheres its cut?
Heres a couple pics of what i mean.

1niceSi

any tips you would suggest for next time?

i'm going to tackle my own engine swap next week.

markpa

lol yeah after u uplug /unhook everything and are ready to pull it, plug the two holes for the axles, cause we didnt and we had a nice spill in our driveway. Red fluid came out of the stock motor, and a really small amount of liquid came out of the b16, from the same spots, so plug them with a rag or somthing.

dingus88

use the link I put up it has everythign you need to know step by step...you use your stock harness plug everything in then you should have vtec soliniod vtec oil pressure and knock sensor to wire in...you can use that existing harness for it's connector's

do you have the resistor box did he do the dpfi to mpfi converstion..???

dingus88

B16a Installation...
OK, the first thing you can do is sober up from that heavy drinking at lunch time. Don't wanna be working with power tools while you're not so sharp eh? The first thing to do is to bend the rear crossmember lip down. Right where the old stock CRX mount was (where the new HAspor one will go) bend the lip down on at LEAST a 45 degree angle, for the width of the mount. Now you can install the rear mount. Use the supplied instructions if you don't have the brains to figure out how to do it. It's pretty easy.....

Now you have a choice. If you are installing the motor from the bottom (w/ a lift) go ahead and install the tranny mount. If you'll be installing from the top (w/ a hoist) hold off on this.

Now the fun part (no, it really IS fun!)

How often can you hit your car hard as hell with a sledgehammer, and not have to worry about it? Well now you can!

In order for the B16 alternator pulley to fit perfeclty in the engine bay, the drivers side frame rail needs to be bashed in about 3/8". Go to the HAsport web page for the EXACT location, but it's a square area, below the shock tower. Right on the frame rail. You can probably see where, but check HAsports page just to be safe.

After you're done beating the hell out of the car, take a valium and calm down. That's all the smashing we get to do today.

Next step is to use your stock wiring harness and plug it itno the B16. If the B16 came with a stock harness, save that for plugs and wire... that's all it's good for. After you get everything plugged in, there should be one (or two? I forget) extra, unused plugs. It's OK, you didnt miss anything. it's extra....

For both the main harness and conversion harness, you will PROBABLY need to lenghten one or two wires. So get a soldering gun and some shrink tubes (or electrical tape) and some wire cutters. This is what ya use the B16 stock harness for!

Now, find the sensors/plugs on the B16 that you DIDN'T plug anything into. They should be:

2nd O2 sensor
Knock Sensor
VTEC Solenoid
VTEC oil pressure (pretty sure)

First, ground the conversion harness the same spot the main harness is grounded (on the starter). Next, plug in the 4 plugs where they go, it's not TOO hard to figure it out.......

Your wiring is done! It's not too hard as long as you take your time and are careful doing it.

The next step (for me at least) was deciding on how to run my 2nd O2 sensor. I bought a DC 4-1 header and decided NOT to get an additional bung welded into it. Instead, I cut both O2 sensors off (leaving enough wire on each end) and spliced both lines together. Then I spliced in one longer wire into that, and ran that and spliced THAT into one O2 sensor. So now both readings are going to one sensor. Tricky eh? And since the bung is at the back of the 4-1 collector, it measures all 4 cylinder's combined readings. It's not running bad at all, however just a bit rich. But the more you mod, the leaner it gets, so this rich condition is OK.

Now you can hoist up the B16. I believe if you install rom above you can install the right mount now too. I had to wait to do that. Lower the ngine in tranny side a lil lower than the rest. Once it's close, install the HAsport transmission mount, and bolt it to the car but don't tighten it. Now, you'll have to install the rear mount bracket WHILE the engine is being lowered. Just as it meets the rear mount. It's a crazy pain in the *** to do from above, but it is possible. Once that is lined up, put the bolts in but don't tighten it yet. Line up the driver's side mount now and bolt it in. Now, if everything is line dup right, tighten all the mounts down. I believe the torque spec is 42ft-lbs. You may need a long socket extension and swivel sockets to reach the rear mount bolts.

Now you can install the header (if ya bought one) and run the O2 sensor (s) to the bung (s) (depends how ya did it...)

The harness' should now plug into where they all belong. Bolt the header up to the cat (you may need to cut and weld you cat, maybe not. Mine fit perfect). Run the Vacuum lines and fuel lines to their applicable places. You will find out that some parts on the B16 intake manifold serve no purpose on a USDM CRX, and they can be removed. You may notice a few vacuum lines going no where or open. I capped all mine, and it brought the idle from 3300rpms to 1000rpms. It just takes a few tries to figure out which ones go where and do what.

Now go under the car and bolt up the new shift stabilizer. You may notice it has an open in for a bushing. I used a suspension bushing pressed into the opening with a hole drilled in it. That way, I was able to put a washer over the outside and bolt it into the right place. Next, put the new shift linkage on. Use that pin and line up the holes on the joint (you'll see what I mean). Tap it in slowy and straight untill it is all the way in. Then bolt the other end to the shifter.

Re-attach the stock clutch cable and adjust it, and install the new throttle cable now. Put an intake over the throttlebody (good time for a CAI). Replace the speedo cable into the back of the tranny.

Re-install the radiator (if ya took it off) and the coolant overflow bottle.

Make sure you re-connected the engine ground, and that you HAVE A tranny ground. That's what messes alot of people up (including myself!). You can add all the fluids now...

Install the new intermediate shaft on the drivers side and the axles. Re-install the suspension and brakes. It might be a good time to bleed the brakes as well...

Now ya need to follow the HAsport wiring harness directions on how to hook up to the ECU. Use their directions, they work perfect.

After you make sure EVERYTHING is hooked up right, have someone else take a look. Make sure all caps are back on, all hoses have a destination, all wires are going to something....

Then reconnect the battery. And fire it up.... if it doesn't start, don't get discouraged, most likely its something small you overlooked. Double check everything again.

As long as you took your time, everything should be OK. It will probably idle rough initially. If it idles very HIGH, you may need to check your vacuum lines. Make sure you check to see if the ECU is throwing any codes. Alot of the time it will throw a code #7 (TPS) which means ya need a new one. You can probably get one from a junkyard for or so. Honda doesn't sell them seperately, ya need to get the whole throttlebody. Screw that, just go to a junkyard....

Take it out for spin, and enjoy VTEC... I know I am!

dingus88

Shift Linkage: Need adjustable shift linkage from Hasport or shortened shift linkage from 90-93 Integra
Axles: B16A Axles
Wiring: DX, LX, and Standard (dual point injection) models the wiring needs to be modified for port injection first. To use PR3 or PW0 four wires need to be added, VTEC, VTEC oil pressure, knock sensor and second O2.
Upper Radiator Hose: 92 GSR, trim to fit
Lower Radiator Hose: 90 Integra, trim to fit
Throttle Cable: 90 Integra
Clutch Cable: Stock
Air Conditioning: Use Hasport AC bracket with stock AC compressor.
Chassis Prep: Make a dent on the left-hand frame rail for alternator pully clearance.
Emissions: Purge cutoff solenoid valve needs to be Teed into the fuel pressure regulator for vacuum source.

Nova_Dust

This worth a sticky!