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SRI and strut bar rubbing

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Old 12-Jun-2006, 12:58 PM
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SRI and strut bar rubbing

install a strut bar, now it's rubbing with my short ram intake


i want to put somthing in between, but when i touch the strut bar it's very hot, so what stuffs i can use put in between?


thanks

here's some pics







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Old 12-Jun-2006, 01:09 PM
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You have the SRI that loops up then down because you have a D16Y7 engine. I would suggest seeing if you can get the coupler holder between the SRI and the intake manifold changed so that it angles it lower and clears your Strut bar better.

Check here and see what I mean.

http://www.teknotik.com/product_sect...form.php?id=63

See if that works for you. I know, I had the same problem with mine to the point where it would actually dent it.
 
Old 12-Jun-2006, 01:24 PM
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but which one should get from that site?
thanks
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Old 12-Jun-2006, 01:34 PM
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I think with the pipe you have, you may have to cut it. I would give Teknotiks a call or even go see them and figure out what you need to do in order to get it to work.
 
Old 12-Jun-2006, 01:40 PM
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alright, i'll go later today

thanks for the help
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Old 12-Jun-2006, 05:19 PM
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id recommend getting a whole new intake that is designed specifically for the d16y7 because it should allow the adequate clearance for a strut tower bar. no point in paying 40$ for that coupler when you can get an entire new intake system with filter (aftermarket) for that price.

id look into the proper intake system instead of that coupler.
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Old 12-Jun-2006, 05:46 PM
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Originally posted by civicnation
id recommend getting a whole new intake that is designed specifically for the d16y7 because it should allow the adequate clearance for a strut tower bar. no point in paying 40$ for that coupler when you can get an entire new intake system with filter (aftermarket) for that price.

id look into the proper intake system instead of that coupler.
I believe he has the proper one, the problem is, they are not made to be used with the strut bar in mind because of how they loop. The EK Y7 intake manifold imo is such a dumb design compared to all the other engines. Having said that, he will always have either a rubbing problem or it being very close to the strut bar. Other option is to remove the strut bar. I am sure the one you have is really just a cosmetic item anyways.
 
Old 12-Jun-2006, 10:24 PM
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isnt there any thick rubber he can put there?
like the hosing stuff from rad hose or something like that

just a little peice where its touching
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Old 13-Jun-2006, 11:19 AM
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Originally posted by hdave
isnt there any thick rubber he can put there?
like the hosing stuff from rad hose or something like that

just a little peice where its touching
that's exactly what i would do... something a little resistant to heat of course if your strut bar is getting hot...
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Old 13-Jun-2006, 11:59 AM
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yes my strut bar is very hot

btw, i'll take some pics later today

thanks
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Old 13-Jun-2006, 02:58 PM
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i had a strut bar and a proper y7 intake and it cleared the strut bar fine.
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Old 15-Jun-2006, 12:05 AM
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my 05 is the same it makes the whole car shake its annoying the best thing to do imo is if you got some "fabrication skills" mod the brakets so the strut bar sit another .1-.2 inchs forward
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Old 15-Jun-2006, 01:41 AM
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Originally posted by Dawson
my 05 is the same it makes the whole car shake its annoying the best thing to do imo is if you got some "fabrication skills" mod the brakets so the strut bar sit another .1-.2 inchs forward
That's why with 7thgens the neuspeed bar is your best choice, not generic, and not the DC one (cause it sucks).
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Old 15-Jun-2006, 04:55 PM
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Brian...you are right about the manifold design...WTF....whats the harm in putting the opening on the side instead of it being opening upward.

I'll go with what Harsh said...a piece of rubber that will prevent both the rubbing and the heating.
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Old 16-Jun-2006, 03:43 PM
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dont waste your time with couplings, just take out the old hacksaw and cutter down... Thats what I did and it works fine now, no rubbage.... beleive me it takes like 15 mins. just take off like a quarter inch or so..., the cut doesnt even have to look nice since the rubber boot covers it... just make sure you clean up the metal shaveings well inside the pipe or else your engine will suck them in.
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Old 16-Jun-2006, 06:21 PM
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^ that sounds like a great alternative to wasting $40, lol
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Old 17-Jul-2006, 12:10 PM
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updated with pics

thanks for the help
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