"Something" knocks when car brakes hard...
24-Oct-2006, 06:25 PM
#21
canadian tire sometimes has sets of pry bars on sale. you always need a good pry bar around. sears too is a good place to check.
based on what you said about the timing of the noise, I would have to say lower ball joints too....
upper ball joint failure first manifested itself itself on my car in the form of a mild knocking when driving on gravel or grass. and yeah, SiR knuckles are known for premature lower ball joint failure I'm assuming because they prolly use a US supplier since the SiRs were built in the US. I swapped mine out with my original ones when I did the SiR upgrade.
based on what you said about the timing of the noise, I would have to say lower ball joints too....
upper ball joint failure first manifested itself itself on my car in the form of a mild knocking when driving on gravel or grass. and yeah, SiR knuckles are known for premature lower ball joint failure I'm assuming because they prolly use a US supplier since the SiRs were built in the US. I swapped mine out with my original ones when I did the SiR upgrade.
25-Oct-2006, 12:12 AM
#23
at this point, I think any service parts that the dealer sources will be 'domestic'. for example, my japanese built sedan came with a Japanese Panasonic battery, whereas all US/Canada built Civics came with domestic batteries. and when you go buy a battery, all you can get are domestic ones (I think built by Johnson Controls?). Same with air filters, my car came with an orange filter, yet all I can buy at the dealer were green ones. anyways, you get the point. however, I assume quality concerns if there were any would be worked out at this point.
25-Oct-2006, 07:53 PM
#27
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Join Date: Mar 2005
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I was thinking about it today and I would place my bet on your control arm bushings. A Control arm is suppose to stay stationary under braking/accel, but if the bushings are bad it can flex and make a clunking sound. Anyways, check the bushings for cracking and physical wear.
25-Oct-2006, 10:08 PM
#28
by design our bushings are under minimal stress. unlike those on a cavalier or VW which are placed *** backwards and carry the entire load of the car. in other words... it could be, but it's not very likely by design.
25-Oct-2006, 10:12 PM
#29
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Join Date: Mar 2005
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bruno, no matter what the design is, control arms were designed to absorb engine torque and braking. I see what your saying though.
but im curious to know why you think or why our c/a's are under minimal stress? I know the A-shape is more structually sound, so that might have to do with it..
but im curious to know why you think or why our c/a's are under minimal stress? I know the A-shape is more structually sound, so that might have to do with it..
26-Oct-2006, 12:00 PM
#30
not the control arm itself.... just the bushings. they are stationary and the control arm pivots around the bushing. other designs, the bushings are dynamic, which means they wear out and fail by design.
27-Oct-2006, 12:48 PM
#31
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Location: Thornhill
Posts: 62
Originally posted by chris_si98
well charles dont go changing your balljoints right away, there is no set maintence on bj's. Use a prybar to check if the lower bj is bad. Jacking up the wheel and checking for play by hand wont work since the lower bj is the load carrying balljoint, it needs load on it to really check for play
well charles dont go changing your balljoints right away, there is no set maintence on bj's. Use a prybar to check if the lower bj is bad. Jacking up the wheel and checking for play by hand wont work since the lower bj is the load carrying balljoint, it needs load on it to really check for play
So i changed it, the whole thing cost me $135
29-Oct-2006, 02:14 PM
#36
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Holy shat... my horn is not working again, it is the 5th time it for "vibrated" off the chassis...
Now, I am pretty certain the "hitting" sound came from the horn banging on the front rebar.
Oh lord, these Hasport mounts are tougher than I thought... I will check it out tonight.
Now, I am pretty certain the "hitting" sound came from the horn banging on the front rebar.
Oh lord, these Hasport mounts are tougher than I thought... I will check it out tonight.
01-Nov-2006, 03:02 AM
#37
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 308
Hey i got a extra lower ball joint for an EK for the passanger side i believe. Its oem and still in the original package never opened.If you need it let me know and ill even give you the part number to make sure its the right one. Im get a similar noise like you are but its coming from the rear of the car on the passenger side when i brake also.
01-Nov-2006, 08:43 AM
#38
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Location: Ontario
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Thanks man.
So the car was examined and turned out that the loud banging sound did came from the horn swing back and forth. However, driver side ball joint does have a tiny play where the passenger side is fine. Front sway bar linkages are fine.
So the car was examined and turned out that the loud banging sound did came from the horn swing back and forth. However, driver side ball joint does have a tiny play where the passenger side is fine. Front sway bar linkages are fine.
01-Nov-2006, 08:48 AM
#39
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LOL CHARLES!
Yah those TRW parts are sweet. We sell to them to make their parts, nothing but quality!
Funny how you think $160.79 is alot for 2 of them, when I paid over $800 for mine
Damn hondas are cheap for parts!
Yah those TRW parts are sweet. We sell to them to make their parts, nothing but quality!
Funny how you think $160.79 is alot for 2 of them, when I paid over $800 for mine
Damn hondas are cheap for parts!
