Small turbo parts question
#1
Small turbo parts question
Mr.Civic is selling a Garrett 25 Turbo on classified, but it does not have a header. Then I saw this on Ebay and I was wondering if this will bolt on to the motor?
Would I still need some kind of adaptor plate between the header and engine? And how do you get rid of the rust on the header?
I am thinking a small turbo on the D block. Or I might wait and turbo another engine once I get the swap. But if the parts are cheap, I think I should take this opportunity and practice it. Thanks all.
Would I still need some kind of adaptor plate between the header and engine? And how do you get rid of the rust on the header?
I am thinking a small turbo on the D block. Or I might wait and turbo another engine once I get the swap. But if the parts are cheap, I think I should take this opportunity and practice it. Thanks all.
#6
there ought to be a gasket at every joint...
flange is a peice that connects basically two things that ought not to be together otherwise ... that would be the non-pipe part of the header for example
flange is a peice that connects basically two things that ought not to be together otherwise ... that would be the non-pipe part of the header for example
#9
I would grab the HF mani.
You'll need a flange made according to the bolt pattern on the turbo.
Use Header wrap if your worried about the surface rust....plus i heard it'll up performance.....for 70 bux you can't go wrong.
You'll need a flange made according to the bolt pattern on the turbo.
Use Header wrap if your worried about the surface rust....plus i heard it'll up performance.....for 70 bux you can't go wrong.
#11
Exhaust manifold found on 88-91 CRX HF.
If you take a look at the HF manifold on Ebay and compare it to normal stock manifolds, our stock ones where the 4 runners joins into 1 and extends mid way down. If you look at the the HF manifold where the 4 runners collects it doesn't extend any further. Which allows room for adding a turbo. That opening you see in the second pic with the 4 bolts you'll need to fabricate a flange to reflect the bolt pattern on your turbo. T25/T3/T4/IHI whatever pattern. Then you need to fabricate the downpipe to cover the rest of the area missing from turbo to exhaust.
Great thing about the HF manifold is because its cast iron, has a hole for the O2 sensor (no sensor relocation here)....less to no chance of cracking as opposed to a welded log style manifold or even a full race mani.....if you know a really good welder and his skills are the ****, more power to you.
To stress what BB stated about gaskets.....you don't want an exhaust leak. Good to do it right the first time around and cover all possible issues than trying to figure out wtf is wrong later on when your guage reads nothing...or suddenly hear weird noises.
If you take a look at the HF manifold on Ebay and compare it to normal stock manifolds, our stock ones where the 4 runners joins into 1 and extends mid way down. If you look at the the HF manifold where the 4 runners collects it doesn't extend any further. Which allows room for adding a turbo. That opening you see in the second pic with the 4 bolts you'll need to fabricate a flange to reflect the bolt pattern on your turbo. T25/T3/T4/IHI whatever pattern. Then you need to fabricate the downpipe to cover the rest of the area missing from turbo to exhaust.
Great thing about the HF manifold is because its cast iron, has a hole for the O2 sensor (no sensor relocation here)....less to no chance of cracking as opposed to a welded log style manifold or even a full race mani.....if you know a really good welder and his skills are the ****, more power to you.
To stress what BB stated about gaskets.....you don't want an exhaust leak. Good to do it right the first time around and cover all possible issues than trying to figure out wtf is wrong later on when your guage reads nothing...or suddenly hear weird noises.
#12
Cool, I must be a dumbass to even ask what an HF manifold is... I was bidding on one LOL.
Aight, nice info guys, thanks. I suppose I can pick up an HF manifold from junkyards should I fail to bid on that one.
I think I know what a flange is by the decription. Cause the turbo won't bolt on to the manifold so you make a thick plate that has 4 holes which bolt on to the manifold, and another 4 holes that the turbo attaches itself to right? So a plate that has 8 holes on it, am I correct?
Aight, nice info guys, thanks. I suppose I can pick up an HF manifold from junkyards should I fail to bid on that one.
I think I know what a flange is by the decription. Cause the turbo won't bolt on to the manifold so you make a thick plate that has 4 holes which bolt on to the manifold, and another 4 holes that the turbo attaches itself to right? So a plate that has 8 holes on it, am I correct?
#14
you want something that spools quickly .... reaching max boost like at 2500 is great... small will do that but big is what produces the large boost so it's a trade off the key is to look at volumetic efficiency and the gearing in the turbo.....
#15
Originally posted by Nova_Dust
Cool, I must be a dumbass to even ask what an HF manifold is... I was bidding on one LOL.
Aight, nice info guys, thanks. I suppose I can pick up an HF manifold from junkyards should I fail to bid on that one.
I think I know what a flange is by the decription. Cause the turbo won't bolt on to the manifold so you make a thick plate that has 4 holes which bolt on to the manifold, and another 4 holes that the turbo attaches itself to right? So a plate that has 8 holes on it, am I correct?
Cool, I must be a dumbass to even ask what an HF manifold is... I was bidding on one LOL.
Aight, nice info guys, thanks. I suppose I can pick up an HF manifold from junkyards should I fail to bid on that one.
I think I know what a flange is by the decription. Cause the turbo won't bolt on to the manifold so you make a thick plate that has 4 holes which bolt on to the manifold, and another 4 holes that the turbo attaches itself to right? So a plate that has 8 holes on it, am I correct?
shaft play is how fuct the turbo main bearing is... ie. the two sides of the turbo (exhaust and intake) are connected by a shaft... and it this shaft can move side to side.... the turbo is fuct. you don't want blades contacting the housing when they are spinning at 100,000 rpm... and YES they do sometimes spin that fast wheeeee!
#17
Most turbos are pretty small. Why you buying junk for your almost new Civic anyways. Stay away from ****... buy a complete kit, and then upgrade to a decent fuel management system and you'll lay down good power. Start with a Greddy or Apexi kit... spend the $3-5K on a decent turbo unless you know what you are doing.
Mine has already cost me towards the $2K range, and it's still missing some small bits, but it'll be nicer than any kit out there... difference is I can afford to make a mistake and blow my motor, but you most likely cannot. So start with a kit! <--- best advice today
Mine has already cost me towards the $2K range, and it's still missing some small bits, but it'll be nicer than any kit out there... difference is I can afford to make a mistake and blow my motor, but you most likely cannot. So start with a kit! <--- best advice today
#20
Originally posted by bbarbulo
always remember this - except correct it for proper english
"Can't nothing good come out of cheap parts"
translated into english:
"Nothing good can come from cheap parts"
always remember this - except correct it for proper english
"Can't nothing good come out of cheap parts"
translated into english:
"Nothing good can come from cheap parts"