should i swap? or modify d16y8
10-May-2005, 06:29 PM
#41
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Originally posted by Dr.K
With Low KM's and a perfect tranny boost would be good. And with all that torque you'd pull out of corner's pretty damn fast. But you will probably be faster in the long run with a swap. Its a tough decision. You should just go in between and get a B18B. Than you can boost down the Road but will still have a quick car untill then. If you buy all this Turbo D stuff you'll be nice and slow untill you boost.
With Low KM's and a perfect tranny boost would be good. And with all that torque you'd pull out of corner's pretty damn fast. But you will probably be faster in the long run with a swap. Its a tough decision. You should just go in between and get a B18B. Than you can boost down the Road but will still have a quick car untill then. If you buy all this Turbo D stuff you'll be nice and slow untill you boost.
in order to do that i would have to save up for a long time and i know ill sell the car before i turbo after a swap.. so its either turbo d16 this summer/fall oor b18b/c1 or b16a this summer with no boost.. im leaning towards the turbo d16 because i can start modifying my engine now opposed to waiting and having a stock engine till i have 3000 to dish out on a b18c1 in the summer
10-May-2005, 07:02 PM
#42
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ummmm, u cant really do anything until u have a complete turbo kit man so either way ur gonna be waiting.... I would get a B18b1 with I/H/E and the rocket motorsports head package.
10-May-2005, 07:42 PM
#43
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rocket motorsports head package
10-May-2005, 07:43 PM
#44
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??? Whats that???
10-May-2005, 09:10 PM
#45
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look up Rocket Motorsports and find out, they make alot of killer performance parts. The LS package includes camshafts, Ti retainers and springs for around $550US.
10-May-2005, 10:11 PM
#46
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hmm not bad..
10-May-2005, 10:39 PM
#47
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ITR swap is expensive as hell. which is the better option, B18C1 built to 200whp or B18C5 bult to 200whp? i know it doesn't take much to reach 200whp with the C5.
11-May-2005, 12:04 AM
#48
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B18B.....do it....Dirt cheap for a swap. And will be satisfyingly quick. Almost as quick as the turbo D !!!! Just drive it this summer and boost next summer. just throw a cheap pipe on it and have fun. It will still boot. With the money you save by going that route you could buy a brand new Garett this winter and build your system around that. You can get almost everything turbo related brand new online via manufacturer or Ebay .Right down to the piping. Even for a swap!!!!!! I saw them last night jsut browsing actually. B18B swap should cost you around $3000 installed. Figure $2500 minimum for a half-decent turbo set up. The swap seems like a better value overall. In the end you'll still have a B18........not some Econo D16..........lol
11-May-2005, 09:39 AM
#49
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Is a b18b a direct swap on an EK? ECU matches too?
11-May-2005, 03:41 PM
#50
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if u get the proper OBD2a or OBD2b ECU yes, u will also need the SiR rear engine bracket and the drivers side engine post (attaches below cams.
11-May-2005, 08:29 PM
#51
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Originally posted by Dr.K
Ok/......A D motor is an economy car motor. A B motor is a Performance motor. Which would you rather start with? A B motor IS better than any D motor. Without a Doubt. Can you prove me wrong with fact's, Or are you jsut going to Post another humorous emoticon to cover up your lack of Knowledge
B motor's were in Teg's for a Reason. Becuase people beat on sports car's and B motor's are more durable. Not to mention there much more powerfull in stock form.
Ok/......A D motor is an economy car motor. A B motor is a Performance motor. Which would you rather start with? A B motor IS better than any D motor. Without a Doubt. Can you prove me wrong with fact's, Or are you jsut going to Post another humorous emoticon to cover up your lack of Knowledge
B motor's were in Teg's for a Reason. Becuase people beat on sports car's and B motor's are more durable. Not to mention there much more powerfull in stock form.
I'll spend 5-7Gs on a TUNED Turbo-D that would spank that GSR all day long and be nearly as reliable... The turbo D will be making More Torque to the wheels than the GSR is making HP to the wheels
12-May-2005, 01:17 AM
#52
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Originally posted by 1c6_eh6_t-si
He orig quoted he wants to spend 5-7Gs on the project... sure a B would be a good base... but realistically when you're working with a budget there isn't much else you can do to the motor after you've dumped cash swapping in a GSR... your left with enough cash for bolt ons... I/H/E...
I'll spend 5-7Gs on a TUNED Turbo-D that would spank that GSR all day long and be nearly as reliable... The turbo D will be making More Torque to the wheels than the GSR is making HP to the wheels
He orig quoted he wants to spend 5-7Gs on the project... sure a B would be a good base... but realistically when you're working with a budget there isn't much else you can do to the motor after you've dumped cash swapping in a GSR... your left with enough cash for bolt ons... I/H/E...
I'll spend 5-7Gs on a TUNED Turbo-D that would spank that GSR all day long and be nearly as reliable... The turbo D will be making More Torque to the wheels than the GSR is making HP to the wheels
12-May-2005, 08:07 PM
#53
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www.turbod16.com dyno section for evidence....
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SleeperCivicEX (ScrappyDoo) -- 219whp 204wtq
D16Y8 stock -- Greddy 15G-- 11psi -- VAFC, RC440s
http://pollito.no-ip.com/sleeper/sleeperdyno01.JPG
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if he had that really tuned via uberdata he'd see even more power and be very daily driven reliable... Greddy kits are Nothing close to 5-7Gs... GSR w/bolt ons can't match in HP what this guy was making in torque.
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Quicksilver -- 184.5whp 170wtq
D16y8 stock -- Greddy kit -- 8 psi -- Blue box
http://www.turbod16.com/album_pic.php?pic_id=1800
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that's just the basic greddy kit with it's orig crap fuel management... still more HP/Torque than GSR w/bolt ons.
if D's came with quick trannies like B there would be absolutely no contest at this budget.
Don't get me wrong if i wanted to spend more cash on my car i'd have a GSR turbo instead... but just like this guy i didn't want to put that kinda dough into a civic
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SleeperCivicEX (ScrappyDoo) -- 219whp 204wtq
D16Y8 stock -- Greddy 15G-- 11psi -- VAFC, RC440s
http://pollito.no-ip.com/sleeper/sleeperdyno01.JPG
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if he had that really tuned via uberdata he'd see even more power and be very daily driven reliable... Greddy kits are Nothing close to 5-7Gs... GSR w/bolt ons can't match in HP what this guy was making in torque.
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Quicksilver -- 184.5whp 170wtq
D16y8 stock -- Greddy kit -- 8 psi -- Blue box
http://www.turbod16.com/album_pic.php?pic_id=1800
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that's just the basic greddy kit with it's orig crap fuel management... still more HP/Torque than GSR w/bolt ons.
if D's came with quick trannies like B there would be absolutely no contest at this budget.
Don't get me wrong if i wanted to spend more cash on my car i'd have a GSR turbo instead... but just like this guy i didn't want to put that kinda dough into a civic
13-May-2005, 12:42 AM
#54
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stock D series in the 200 range = not so reliable IMO. If it was me id get a B18b1 swap for $1500-2500, then $2500 on a turbo kit and ur gonna be eating alot of people
13-May-2005, 02:45 AM
#55
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I agree. Non Vtec B is the least expensive swap and your getting better quality Internal's and Tranny. You'll probably end up spending a touch more to do a B turbo.But it is well worth it in the long run. And a B18B will still be quick and satisfying to drive if you can't afford to boost this summer. And just think of the Sweet turbo kit you can build if you take your time and buy all the components seperately over the winter.
12-Jun-2005, 12:56 AM
#56
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swap
I read through what every one said and it all sounds iteresting. I'm doing an h22 in mine and I hope it will be the best bang for the buck. the three things in engine inprovements that you must know 1 fast 2 cheep 3 reliable
pick 2
fast and cheep it won't be reliable
cheep and reliable won't be fast
fast and reliable won't be cheep
I'll tell you how my swap goes when it is done.
pick 2
fast and cheep it won't be reliable
cheep and reliable won't be fast
fast and reliable won't be cheep
I'll tell you how my swap goes when it is done.
12-Jun-2005, 03:44 AM
#57
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why not get a B series and tune it to 170-200hp all motor? less worries than going boost with your d series pushing that much. sooner or later you're going to break it and then swap it for a b series? then you're just wasting money, do it right the first time.
12-Jun-2005, 02:20 PM
#58
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Way to bring back a month old post.hahahaha. And I agree with swapping. **** this Turbo D ****. People will alway's try to be different. Go ahead. Be slow. Some people just want to tell people they have a Turbo and want everyone to Hear there B.O.V.
Thats great. Those people would probably be scared ****less if they ran anything faster than a low-14 anyway's. Let them spend money on Boosting there D motor.They'll realize there stupid when they get spanked by a modded B.
Thats great. Those people would probably be scared ****less if they ran anything faster than a low-14 anyway's. Let them spend money on Boosting there D motor.They'll realize there stupid when they get spanked by a modded B.
12-Jun-2005, 06:30 PM
#59
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I've decided to do neither now, I have to pay off some bills and I need money for school once again in september. I'm just going to try to mod my d16 slowly to give me around 150-170whp. I know it's not much, but college comes first. lol
12-Jun-2005, 06:52 PM
#60
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why would you post up a thread knowing you have bills to pay in the near future then just say..." na, i ain't doing s-h-i-t now" 
and you said "slowly mod the D16 to give you 170hp" HAHAHA, like what? headers? exhaust CAI (which don't do ****)???? you would need a turbo to get anywhere near that
hahah, i just re-read it, you said 170WHP
and you said "slowly mod the D16 to give you 170hp" HAHAHA, like what? headers? exhaust CAI (which don't do ****)???? you would need a turbo to get anywhere near that
hahah, i just re-read it, you said 170WHP
