SiknTwistedCiv

Okay now I know Jason just had his monkey bars installed last week and him and I spoke about this breifly but does anyone know which bars are needed for what classes and what QMT's these rules start at...???

Does anyone else in this fourm have a caged car that's either for show or legit for NDRA???

Speak up peeps, I want to know what everyone thinks about having a cage in a daily driver weather its a 4 point or 12 point or anything in between.

imported_gatherer

anything with bars going forward of the back of the driver seat should not be consider a daily driver period... when you daily drive your car you do so without a helmet and without a helmet if you are in an accident you can be severly hurt by the cage ... the cage ceases to be helpful and starts being a hazard...

my car has no bars forward of the back of the driver seat ...

anyways as for regulations for 1/4 mile I have no clue what is required ... but for autocross and solo 1 here are the guidelines to follow appendix B for roll bars (a cage with no bars going forward of the driver seat) and appendix C for full cages

http://www.cnacsolo.ca/cnac2003appendixB.pdf

have fun remember the rules for solo 1 or solo 2 might not be relavent for drag racing and vise versa. solo and drag have different governing bodies

SiknTwistedCiv

I strongly agree with Jason on the point of bars not being in the front of the car if being used as a daily driver. However in that same sense the hoop bar would be a serious issue if you were to be T-Boned and did not have a helmet on as well, without that hoop bar you would have no cage assembely.


**** Jason can you explain the configuration of your cage to us.... "Four Point" only means four points touch the frame do you have cross bars and such with your set-up? would you maybe have a picture perhaps...

imported_gatherer

actually if you count the points where the cage touches the frame I've got a 7 point....

ok the 9 bar details

1) the main hoop from the outside floor behind the driver seat to the outside edge of the floor on the passenger side....goes up one side connects to the roof on that side along the top and connects tot he roof on the other side then down the other side to the floor (4 point)

2) lower bar connects the bases of the main hoop together runs along the floor the exhuast tunnel is also welded to this bar (1 more point)

3)then there is the diagonal bar goes from the passenger side floor mount of the main hoop to the middle of the top of the main hoop.

4) bar goes fromt he driver side top of the main hoop to the driver side rear strut tower (1 more point)

5) bar goes from the passenger side top of the main hoop to the passenger side rear strut tower (1 more point)

6) bar goes from driver side top of the main hoop to the passenger side strut tower

7) bar goes from the passenger side top of the main hoop to the middle of bar 6

8) bar goes from middle of bar 6 to driver side strut tower

9) bar goes from bar 3 to driver side of main hoop to create a harness bar ...

as for side impacts the tires would let go and slide long before that main hoop collaspes... the hoop can withstand 2.5 g's in the side I haven't known tires to have that much grip....

imported_gatherer

yes I have pictures but those are in the members only lounge.... I don't need or want the world to be tempted to get "a cool looking car" if you catch my drift....

SiknTwistedCiv

I was more leaning towards your head smoking the main hoop if t-boned rather than a cage not holding, I should have been more specific

imported_gatherer

there is no way my head would go back towards the main hoop...for a few reasons...

in a side impact (t bone) the body would move side to side in the direction of the impact so a driver side impact would casue me to be propelled towards the passenger side...

and for a front or rear collision I have a head rest that stops the head from smoking the bar ... it is far enough back that there is no phyiscal way (bar me not wearing a seat belt) that I would be able to hit it....

imported_gatherer

anyone else got questions on this?

Cynikal.Mindset

on a driver's side t-bone your head would travel towards the side of impact (driver's side) while your body would travel with the impact (towards driverside) but nonetheless you have better chance of smashing the driver's window with your head than hitting a bar...unless for some odd reason your bar goes right through the middle of your door...therefore, Jason's cage is "streetsafe"

punkindrublic

i dont know if you made a post saying but how much did it cost you??(pm me if you dont want that info getting out) and what material is it made of?

i'm probably gonna build mine from chromoly in the spring.... titanium would be though

imported_gatherer

chromemoly is good but costs more and for the wieght savings (see other thread for my rant on that) I don't think it's worth it

rprtalon

If I were to get T-boned, I would prefer to HAVE a 6-point cage installed. You're going to hit your head anyway, might as well have a nice steel cage around you when it happens. I would have more issue with getting in and out of the car with a "forward cage". Door bars would be a pain unless they were swing-outs. Nice cage BTW Jason, that R. O'Brien fellow does some nice work. Don't forget, you need to upgrade your helmet as well when a roll-cage is installed. A motorcycle helmet is no longer sufficient.

D.

rprtalon

Chromoly also needs to be Tig welded, so most home fabricators are SOL. Make sure if you go with Chromoly, you get 4130-N, the N stands for Normalized, which means it has been stress relieved.
Be prepared to pay approx. 12$ a foot for Cr-mo, where Mild Steel is around 6$

D.

imported_gatherer

you have some pointed there Rprtalon...(yes I know who you really are..)

as for T boning and the whole talk about it in this thread it's really a non issue though till I advance to road racing ...