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Ractive coilover springs

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Old 14-Apr-2003, 05:39 PM
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Looks like Bruno already answered for me. Cheap coilovers tend to bounce like crazy cause those companies have no idea how to match a spring rate properly with the specific vehicle. Skunk2 and GC allow you to choose your spring rate. That in itself tells you something.

Originally posted by JookSingKid


Why?
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Old 14-Apr-2003, 05:43 PM
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Originally posted by bbarbulo
many ppl complain about their particular spring cuz they didn't really know what they were buying to begin with. Even products like H&R and Eibach ppl complain about cuz they had one image in their head, and got something different. That's why I always say, there isn't one magical spring that will please every enthusiast and their g/f too.... I mean, you modify in order to have a purpose built vehicle, right? Corner weighing is a little bit bullshit. I mean, it's not like I go to different tracks, where say 80% of turns are off camber right turns, and I have to adjust my corner weight for that, or another week the track is 50/50 turns, and I gotta corner weigh for that... that's not what ppl do with coilovers. They just want be slammed one day, and driveable the next. Not saying I condone that, but that's what ppl do.
Agreed!

and for 99.9% of those people that like to be slammed one day and not the next.



R1 coilovers and such are good enough for those guys.

and if you'r concern is whether or not the spring will snap, the answer is No, the spring won't snap.
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Old 14-Apr-2003, 05:50 PM
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JSK, yes.... problem is that for that one day of slammed, they sacrifice YEARS of suspension abuse through unmatched springs. So, get what I'm saying?? I mean 100% of these ppl daily drive their cars, and that's just pure abuse. May as well just do the right thing first time around. You have a point, but I'm saying, don't downgrade your Honda... plus the collars can corrode and seize or wear and slip. I've seen springs of coilovers like that pop outta their seat after hitting a big bump... furthermore, the car behaves funny at the limit and is quite frankly dangerous as well. After I started modding, I realized the car was becoming safer and safer at all speeds and conditions. At that point, money became no object for parts that improve handling. That's why I dumped sooo much money into my suspension trying out 4 different setups before settling on one.
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Old 14-Apr-2003, 05:52 PM
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Originally posted by SW20 MR2
Looks like Bruno already answered for me. Cheap coilovers tend to bounce like crazy cause those companies have no idea how to match a spring rate properly with the specific vehicle. Skunk2 and GC allow you to choose your spring rate. That in itself tells you something.
I think that most stories you hear about "cheap coilovers bounce like crazy" is because the person buying them is too cheap to replace their worn or blown struts/shocks...

therefore the result is bouncy ride.

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Old 14-Apr-2003, 06:44 PM
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a lot of info in this post and yes you will see a big difference in ride quality if you dump a ton of cash like bbarbulo has. I agree with many interesting points by bb and jsk here.
I haven't dumped a lot of cash into my suspension and yes I realize that my ride quality isn't going to be too great. I just wish I had the money to build up a nice suspension but I don't at the moment. I can't remember who quoted me i think it was ilmatic about my eibachs better but yes I have noticed that my R1 sleeves have been a bit smoother than my eibachs but I had the road race kit springs so that would be the answer on why the car jumped more when I had them installed. The second gen R1's used to go for $260 in stores not $100, but this was last year when I bought them but got them for much cheaper.

Exactly what jsk said, many people slam there car on blown or worn down struts, and it doesen't matter how good your coil or spring is the ride is going to be crappy. If you get a coil for example by R1 with a good set of gas shocks you will get a good ride or even a good set of gas shocks with a nice set of h & r's or eibachs you will definetly see a difference in ride quality. I have learned the hard and cheap way and I want to save up and built my suspension all at once. I pretty much answered my own question here on why my car is so bad in ride quality.
Also for $100 that's a steal for R1's
Also BB I have seen many people's coilovers seize up where the colars are and where the alan key goes. Many installers don't lube those specific parts resulting in seized parts. When installing and/or adjusting your sleeves you must apply the anti seize lubrication to those parts, especially before the winter b/c in some time those parts will seize up. I've seen a 2000 sir with ractives on them and he had to throw away the struts and sleeves b/c he couldn't take them off, they were stuck for good and he couldn't even adjust them at all.
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Old 14-Apr-2003, 10:38 PM
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Hahahaha, that is very true as well. I still don't believe that the cheap brands match the spring rates properly though.

For those on a budget, I would highly recommend using standard Sport lowering springs on the car. They will give you a nice blend of everything and be light on your wallet as well. If you want to be slammed, then that's fine, but as I've said many times in the past, there are two things that hold true with stuff in this hobby:

1. You get what you pay for (not many exceptions to this).

2. Do things once, do things right. As Bruno already mention with his numerous suspension setups, you will waste a tonne of money buy cheaping out and buying crap. I've done it on my other cars and did it recently on the Civic. Stupid me. In the end, I spent more money even when I was trying to be cheap and spend less.

Originally posted by JookSingKid


I think that most stories you hear about "cheap coilovers bounce like crazy" is because the person buying them is too cheap to replace their worn or blown struts/shocks...

therefore the result is bouncy ride.

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Old 15-Apr-2003, 08:34 AM
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Originally posted by My Blue Si
Also BB I have seen many people's coilovers seize up where the colars are and where the alan key goes. Many installers don't lube those specific parts resulting in seized parts. When installing and/or adjusting your sleeves you must apply the anti seize lubrication to those parts, especially before the winter b/c in some time those parts will seize up. I've seen a 2000 sir with ractives on them and he had to throw away the struts and sleeves b/c he couldn't take them off, they were stuck for good and he couldn't even adjust them at all.
you got the right idea, but I think you mistook what I was saying... a GREAT suspension does not have to cost you a kidney. (both in terms of ride quality AND price). I think the best handling susp would be a really soft spring like a stock GSR or even SiR on an exceptional shock like a Koni Sport or Bilstein performance, with Progress sway bars. Personally, I think this setup can be had for under $1800 including bushings even, and would prolly yield a mid .90 on the 200 ft skidpad.... that's Porsche and M3 territory. Especially on a 4th gen, this would work wonderfully. It would soak up the bumps with lots of wheel travel, the sway bars would really hold it down... I can just see it working now....

About coilovers... LOL I've seen it too many times too... but I don't let anyone else work on my car, so that hasn't been a problem. Even with the ones now, they are lubed up good though the car never sees salt, or much driving at all. I just don't think I can take advantage of my setup in anything but the nicest weather. Modified cars need a lot more babying that stock ones, so one should really learn to do stuff himself if he's to maintain a modded car. Otherwise, modded cars that are treated like stock turn out looking like Michael Jackson instead of ageing gracefully. LOL I've seen many many former magazine cars that have turned into road junk cuz of the owners' neglect.
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Old 15-Apr-2003, 09:32 AM
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Originally posted by bbarbulo


you got the right idea, but I think you mistook what I was saying... a GREAT suspension does not have to cost you a kidney. (both in terms of ride quality AND price). I think the best handling susp would be a really soft spring like a stock GSR or even SiR on an exceptional shock like a Koni Sport or Bilstein performance, with Progress sway bars. Personally, I think this setup can be had for under $1800 including bushings even, and would prolly yield a mid .90 on the 200 ft skidpad.... that's Porsche and M3 territory. Especially on a 4th gen, this would work wonderfully. It would soak up the bumps with lots of wheel travel, the sway bars would really hold it down... I can just see it working now....

About coilovers... LOL I've seen it too many times too... but I don't let anyone else work on my car, so that hasn't been a problem. Even with the ones now, they are lubed up good though the car never sees salt, or much driving at all. I just don't think I can take advantage of my setup in anything but the nicest weather. Modified cars need a lot more babying that stock ones, so one should really learn to do stuff himself if he's to maintain a modded car. Otherwise, modded cars that are treated like stock turn out looking like Michael Jackson instead of ageing gracefully. LOL I've seen many many former magazine cars that have turned into road junk cuz of the owners' neglect.
I agree I do undestand what your saying, and I make $1800 a year b/c im in school and I don't work so to me it's like giving out a kidney
That supension you just mentioned will work great, a gsr/sir spring on a Koni shock and I believe you have the adjustable capabilities on the shock to adjust that spring also, not sure though. If not then there's really no point in that setup if you want the lowered look but you will definetly have a really smooth ride out of it, not sure though quote me wrong if so. BB I was just saying even a mini setup like an h & r spring on a kyb or koni strut will also give your car a nice smooth ride and this setup will not cost you an arm and a leg. I was quite surpised when I saw a setup in a crx with just an aftermarket spring and brand new kyb shocks. The car ran like it was stock and it was down 2".
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Old 15-Apr-2003, 09:47 AM
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ya, Eibach and KYB GR2 is what I *MAY* be running on my Saturn SL2 daily driver... but I just don't know if I wanna start down that road with yet ANOTHER car. I still have about $10K to dish out for my off road machine, and I think I'd rather put a DVD player in the off roader than have a lowered Saturn LOL Camping trips will never be the same
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Old 15-Apr-2003, 09:50 AM
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BTW, ya, I wan't a big fan of being a student, cuz I'd make like $200-300 biweekly and I'd blow it all on clothes, cuz there wasn't much I could do for that little money on a car. But every co-op term, when I made about $9000 in four months is when I went buck wild with my credit card. The guys are optauto.com were like "Bruno, you on co-op again?" LOL
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Old 15-Apr-2003, 01:22 PM
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informative thread!

how does a progressive spring differ from a regular one? the resistance increases as the spring is compressed? so basically with a low-end coilover there is not much r&d put into its design, resulting in a suspension that isn't suited for the car?

on my next civic I was thinking of going with a tien or buddy club coilover.. strictly for the adjustability on height and stiffness. would I be better off sticking with a koni yellow/h&r sport combo? I'd want it to feel as FAR from a civic as possible.. more integra-like in its ride.
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Old 15-Apr-2003, 01:36 PM
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just a question:

Describe the difference you feel in the 'ride' between a civic and an integra
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Old 15-Apr-2003, 03:58 PM
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Ya, can you describe "Integra-like".

I know the diff, but I wanna know what you think is the diff...

As for progressive rate, yes that's right, and you can tell by the shape of the spring too. Oh, and Integra-like in most cases results from a slightly stiffer spring, but far better shock valving. That's why I always say get the best shock you can afford!! Buying a full body coilover like Fightex (just thinking about it gives me cold sweats) has the advantage of having the spring and shock rates matched. Tein is well known for having excellent shock valving.
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Old 15-Apr-2003, 05:07 PM
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Would this be an option ? If you want to be slammed one day or so get Some R1's and use them when u want to be slamed. then when u want to use your car a a daily driver, get springs and shocks. The only pronlem with springs and a daily driver is the winter issue? how would I solve that?
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Old 15-Apr-2003, 05:15 PM
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??? Anything is doable... you really have to be specific as to what kind of a ride you are looking for. The meets are great cuz maybe you can ride with someone and get a feel for what they have... what you like or dislike. And $$ you are looking to spend. Why you wanna be slammed?? You think the broads can tell if you lower your car .5 inches or 2.5 inches?? ... isht, most fine *** broads just know the colour of your car more than likely, or MAYBE the number of doors you have.
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Old 15-Apr-2003, 05:44 PM
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Originally posted by bbarbulo
You think the broads can tell if you lower your car .5 inches or 2.5 inches?? ... isht, most fine *** broads just know the colour of your car more than likely, or MAYBE the number of doors you have.
Hahah.. you the man bruno!!! :P

agreed. i'm on HR sport/KYB AGX... and it's amazing. just firm enough and makes the curve hugging so much better. But yea, it's a good enough setup for me and my purposes!
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Old 15-Apr-2003, 05:55 PM
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Which is better the H&R Sport or the Eibach pro kit
anyone here like the sportlines?
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Old 16-Apr-2003, 12:35 AM
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Originally posted by loudsubz


I re read the post in group buys and it said the R1 sale was open to everyone on tcc, not just members.
Yes, it is open to memebers AND non-members, but the $100 applies to the members......non-members price is $139.

Go reread it again, or better yet, just call Bill.


Let's see.....a person makes XXX amount of cash.......people are telling hin/her to get the CG or SK for XXX(which is the same, if not more than what they make in a year/half year, or what every time).......correct me if I'm wrong here, but I guess you must work for a credit department and this is a great way to put a poor guy in debt.

I for one, will probably get the R1's/Tom's.......why you my ask.......easy......I use the car everyday......I don't go to the track......I don't race........all I do is get from point A to point B. I hate the 4x4 look on a 5th gen HB.

If I got the R1's/Toms ($100+tax), got 4 new struts (around $200 - $250), install...(around $100), it is still 1/4 of the price of a coilover/strut combo from those other more expensive makers.

I just wish some of you would understand that the average guy/girl wants an affordable way to get the car lower. He or she sometimes doesn't take care of the car 100% of the time....therefore, a more expensive alternative would be wasted money when it comes to them.

Thanks everyone that thinks that the CG and others are great (I won't argue with that), but when you push your believes on others that CAN"T afford to do it that way, and then put them down for going the cheaper/more affordable way, just plain stinks IMO.

If you have the cash, good for you......if not, don't bash them.

(my comments were not directed at any one person, but just an observation of what I have seen/heard since joining TCC over the past year).

As a side note, I would love to be able to use ST again (Suspention Techniques), but if I go the spring route again, I would either have to drive though winter with the car lowered, (which I did, I would not like to do again), or keep switching every spring and fall. (more cash).

Again, I say.......affordable coilovers are the way to go if you just want to go low and bring it back up in the fall, just make sure the person putting them on KNOWS what they are doing. (even if you get CG's, and they are installed poorly, will have a half *** ride).

By the way, almost forgot........as was said before about the antiseize compound.......when you do the breaks on a car, don't you check the sliders and other parts to make sure that they are free of stinking components? Don't you put the compound on those parts to makes sure that they stay free? Don't you put a little on the threads before you put the rims back on to make it easier to remove the nut's later? AND doesn't the more expensive coilover combo kits out there also sieze up JUST as easily as the cheaper sets, if they are not maintianed?

Keep you coilovers greased/lubed (expensive or cheap), and you will get many years of service out of them. (friends RACTIVE ones are going on 4 years....through winter and summer.....never took them off)

And DON"T blame the coilover if you have a bouncy ride.....you either went too low, or you need to get new struts/shocks.

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Old 16-Apr-2003, 01:55 AM
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IMO, I would rather stay stock than put inferior parts on my car.
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Old 16-Apr-2003, 02:12 AM
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Originally posted by SW20 MR2
IMO, I would rather stay stock than put inferior parts on my car.

I agree
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