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Questions about B18C swap and suggestions

Old 13-May-2007, 08:48 PM
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Questions about B18C swap and suggestions

Greetings Everyone,

After doing much research, I decided to swap out my D16Y7 garbage engine from my 1999 Honda Civic Hatchback and replaced it with a JDM B18C (GSR) engine from TorontoJDM.com.

Thankfully KSRD is doing the installation, which at least provides me with faith that it will be done correctly and will run properly.

Now, I have a few questions.

First, the Civic DX (hatch) has an exhaust system that is less than desirable. Which means, from the header to cat, midpipe and to muffler, the piping can't be the same size as a gsr engine would be accustomed to (1.75"--->2.25 or 2.5?") Am I wrong in believing that this will be a problem, and that the GSR (stock) uses a 2.25' pipe? So if I need to change it, that would mean from the header (which I am going to change from stock to DC 4to1) the piping will need to be replaced, along with everything else, cat, midpipe etc. Is this correct? Any suggestions? would a type-r exhaust system work correctly? or simply pick up a 99 Civic hatchback system that would fit the correct piping.

Second, I plan to change my intake manifold, throttle body and header with better parts, such as DC (header) Skunk2 Stage2 for IM and so on. Will these changes if any, change my performance for the better, and if so, to any significant degree? Any suggestions as to other changes I could make to make those changes worthwhile?

Third, valve cover, mine (the gsr one/black) is scratched up, would the red valve cover found on the B18C5 fit on it? The holes look similar, just want to be sure.

If you have some time and can spare a phone call rather than writing it, please call me 647-388-6405. Or just write it here, either way thank you in advance.

Thanks

real1st
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Old 13-May-2007, 10:15 PM
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the valve cover will fit
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Old 15-May-2007, 01:17 AM
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just get a custom 2.25-2.5" exhaust with mandrel bends..from the cat to the exhaust tip. if its a jdm 4-1, you'll need a 2.5" cat. from there, you'll obviously have to go 2.5" cat back for good exhaust flow. don't change the im. everybody and their mother will tell you different, but, trust me....the p72 im peforms very good on mild motors. for the extra 5whp from 7800-8000 that you will gain from a single stage im, you'll sacrifice 7-10wtq and a few whp thru the band. just port match the p72 im, run a fakedata im gasket and you'll be good. a manifold change is not necessarily a necessity for most set ups. as for the t/b, don't even waste your money, buddy. DC is far from good. decent, yes (DC JDM 4-1 specifically is not bad at all). for now, i'd personally go lightweight flywheel ($200), any jdm cast iron exhaust manifold with 2.38" collector (which you should already have on your b18c) 2.5" catback ($200-350) and you'll be happy. you could also port match the im ($80) and get the heatshield im gasket ($40) for that little extra sqeeze. i'm all about cheap, proven mods. total cost, $620 max
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Old 15-May-2007, 04:29 AM
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M power does have a few key points. From my experience on my b18c U really need a good intake system. (AEM CAI) a REALLY good Header, custom exhaust. Thats all you need to start off. Dont go cheap do your research on which parts actually add GREAT power gains. Pm me if you need specifics Then once your clutch starts to go...I would get a light flywheel and a stage 1 exedy clutch. Or stage 2 if you plan on spraying After that I would get a SKUNK2 im and port match it to a larger tb. Then Skunk2 stage 2 Cams, springs and titanium retainers. Get it tunned. U will be fairly happy. With the above listed mods it's possible to see 180-190 +/- whp!
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Old 18-May-2007, 04:47 AM
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UPDATE:

Well the engine has been installed but ran into a few problems it seems.

First, the exhaust piping from header to muffler was the stock (did not have a chance to get the pipe in time, so was driving it with stock 1.75") and the car ran rough and was loud as hell with that stock muffler (stock dx hatch muffler).

Second, it has been said that my power steering module was not functioning properly which was causing a noise of sorts (everytime the belt spun, it made a ticking noise). That is being replaced.

Third, when I was driving, after a while of driving my car felt like it was having hiccups, and would erratically feel like it was pulling back/snapping back, it was a weird experience. Could this be because of the exhaust being so bad? Pressure buildup? Any ideas, I am having it looked at, but it was not a good experience. What are the possible effects of having such a restrictive exhaust setup (its being changed now, but curious what effects it could have).

That's it for now, I will keep you up to date.

Thanks

xrealx
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Old 18-May-2007, 06:35 AM
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DO NOT GET A DC HEADER. For that money get a jdm vibrant j spec 4-2-1 header much better imo. Exhuast get a 2.5 mandrail. skunk 2 stage 2 cams make really good power as well as that intake manfold.

after all that is done u can expect 180whp.
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Old 18-May-2007, 11:36 AM
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Definetly back preasure. You're exhaust needs to be bigger. Think about it this way, imagine pushing water threw a straw that was 1" thick and it was flowing nice then all of a sudden that 1" straw turned into a .25" straw. It would create back preasure. Same as you're engine.
You definetly need a bigger exhaust. The effect is a lose in power. You're engine needs to breath.
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Old 22-May-2007, 01:42 AM
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Well..

Get my car back tommorow, and we will see.

I added a 2.5" straight pipe (have not added 4 to 1 header yet, still using stock gsr header). I am going to add a resonator/cat (boohoo for those who hate the idea) tommorow to compliment my type-r muffler that I have installed.

Hopefully this will remove the tinny (not to confused with a size, but instead the sound the tin makes) sound. I want the car to be quiet enough not to be bothered by cops who love to harass everyone and still be somewhat efficient.

Adding a 4 to 1 header should be easy, I am going to pick up a type-r header I think if its a straight bolt up, otherwise a 2.5" header as suggested above (not dc).

real1st
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Old 23-May-2007, 07:58 PM
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So any answer to what was causing the hiccups to your motor? Was it the exhaust?
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Old 27-May-2007, 03:14 AM
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^ Update

^ UPDATE (May 26 07)

Well, I have had my car since Tuesday! And...

Man what a difference! I have completed my first 1000km (time for an oil change).

No more hiccups. No more bogging, no more nothing. The car takes off. Compared to my 98 GSR (had a 98 gsr teg), this ek is fast.

With Type-R Muffler, cat, rezonator and 2.5" piping (not mandrel piping).. No problems. The exhaust sounds like stock but without the choking effect and horrible performance.

So far, I have noticed a small decrease in Km/Tank (gas mileage).. With a D16Y7 (non-vtech) I used to do 600km a tank. With The B18C and regular (once and a while aggressive driving) I did about 500-510km. If I had not decided to rev it up a bunch of times.. I am sure I could have squeeked a bit more. Even with 500km/tank I am happy, since my dx tank is not even 40litres (think its like 38), and I am doing good milage.

So far so good. I will put up some pics of the car, and the engine, to give you an idea of what my car is looking like. I will take some pics of the engine install etc.

xrealx
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Old 28-May-2007, 03:20 AM
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- Update May 27!

Just my luck.

Today it was a rainy day.. In more than one way.

Hop into the car, start booting down the highway.. Its raining and pouring...

Bang! My Check Engine Light comes on!!! Crap. Like before.. Not so much of a yank when it comes on, but the performance difference you can feel and hear. RPM fluctuates badly when its on..

I am bringing it back to the shop (already dropped it off at KSRD).

I suspect its a sensor, maybe o2 or something.. But I am getting very annoyed.

Anyone got any idea why? Is water or something going into the engine? (Using stock gsr enclosed air intake, so not sure how thats a possibility).

I am having the code checked tommorow.

see ya tommorow

xrealx
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