Problems with recent B16b swap into 92 civic hb
 

I had an automatic 92 civic dx which i had a b16b swapped into. I also had a factory lightened flywheel put in.

I got my car back from the mechanic last week and he said the type r ecu was not compatible with my car and could not be installed. I was told I had to run the Del Sol VTEC ecu. Is this true?

When the car starts rolling from idle it does not move at all, infact it crawls from 500-1500 rpm even if the pedal is pressed all the way. After 1500 it moves a bit up til 2500 rpm where it picks up and accelerates like normal. Any ideas on what could be wrong?

I also had the Si instrument cluster installed so I'd have the tachometer (auto dx comes only with a speedo) , and the speedo will randomly just stop working and sit at zero.

If anyone has a B16b in thier car i'd appreciate any feedback you might have about the motor, and any answers to the questions posted above. And what should a stock B16b produce on the dyno?

Thank you

**edit**
I also forgot to mention the car overheats when I'm driving at 100 km/h + for extended periods... Do I need to change the radiator? If so what should I use.

get a chipped p28 ecu and run a stock b16b base map. That's your best bet. (pm zeeman for an ecu)

It sounds like you have very very very weak lowend power, your timing may be off.. but its hard to tell from your explaination. Sounds like you need to bring it back to the mechanic

The mechanic put in the LS integra ecu for now and is trying to aquire the Del Sol ecu. It should be installed by the end of the week.
Could the programme of the LS ecu be the reason why I have no low end power?
My instincts tell me I need to lean the mixture at the low rpm's, does that sound right?

My mechanic tells me the poor performance is because im running the stock air intake and exhaust system.
I understand changing them will give me obvious increase in performance but I wanted to get my car running proper without any mods to get a baseline run of the power being created in stock configuration, so that I can see the increases made by the bolt ons.
Is it unrealistic for me to expect that the car should run proper with the stock intake and exhaust system?

take your car to someone who knows what they are doing. sounds like your mechanic is just trying to squeeze more $ out of you. first off, you need to get a vtec ecu, not a non-vtec ecu unless it has been converted.

im with aaron.

Sounds like your mechanic is being a dink. You need the proper ecu, then you can diagnosis your no power issue.

The stock intake and exhaust system will actually give you better low end power then a car with a bigger intake/exhaust.

the ecu is temporary until the proper one comes in because i wanted a stock ecu and not a chipped one...
once again my reason for this is to see what the car makes without any mods..

for a complete swap from auto to a 5 speed b16b including tranny axles ecu and labour and lightened flywheel what is a fair price should i have paid?

man...

a chipped ecu is chipped WITH THE STOCK BASEMAP. It's just like a stock ecu, except 10x cheaper.

except in my case where my mechanic is telling me if i wanted a chipped ecu it will cost me $150 more so i said fu%# that give me an unchipped one so he said he will hafta locate one out of the del sol......
see my problem?

and actually the mechanic said it would be chipped to run an aggresive fuel map and have the rev limiter removed... and thats why i said no because i wanted to see how it ran stock...

but if u say a chipped ecu is just a different ecu programmed for the motor u r running in my case the b16b then i would have told him i shouldnt have to pay extra he should be including that as part of the swap.. (obvioulsy he did not give me this option)

according to what was said
ur being taken for a ride

a stock del sol ecu would suck for ur b16b as its a b16a? in there,

u can run a STOCKB16B program on a certain chipped ecu is what people are telling u

"u can run a STOCKB16B program on a certain chipped ecu is what people are telling u"

ya i get it.... but as u can see im being ripped off being told i have to pay $150 extra for a chipped ecu be it programmed with a stock programme or better....
so i said fine just put me the del sol ecu and tho it wont be as good i will take that $150 and put whatever more on top if required and run hondata and have it tuned properly once i do i/h/e

but i dont know much about swaps, tuning, etc, and thats why i asked what is a fair price for what i got here?

ill tell you what i paid for the swap.. $5500 and 200 on top for the lightened flywheel $5700 total

did i get ripped off?

auto to manual swap already costs 2000 or more

so 3500 for everything install is not bad, it's fair but not cheap nor pricy

but ur mech doesn't know how to deal with VTEC cars, consult Zeeman for ECU options

and i think he did sth wrong when he connect the wires, coz the wires for VTEC is very complicated

including motor doesnt sound too bad

take your car to a trusted shop and dont take chances with this mechanic of yours. your car is not even moving properly to begin with and he is telling you its cuz of stock intake and header..lol

i dont want to knock my mechanics professional ability because i know he is quite capable, my only problem with him was his prices but from what a couple people have said his prices seem fair... so i will wait til the vtec ecu is put in and see what happens with the rough idle and general performance.... and re-post

****my other questions****

what's up with my speedo?
what kind of rad should i use?
what should i expect on the dyno for a baseline run?

a del sol ecu will be the wrong ecu anyways....thats for the b16a.....you have a b16b.
IMO pretty much your only option is to use a chipped p28/p30 and have the b16b program put on the chip, you don't have to remove the speed limiter or rev limiter when using a chipped ecu, its completely up to you where you want the rev limit, speed limit, vtec engagement, etc etc, when using a chipped ecu. The person chipping the ecu will be able to set those perameters to whatever you want before burning the program to a chip, if they aren't don't go to them.
Don't waste your money on hondata b/c crome is just as good, and you don't have to buy crome like you do with hondata, you just pay the tuner to tune your car with crome and he'll burn the custom program he made to a chip and put it in your ecu.

It sounds to me like the cluster you bought is busted, either that or your VSS (vehicle speed sensor) on the b-series tranny they swapped in is broken.
A b16b will put down like 150-165whp on a dyno (depending on what kind of dyno).
I'd use a del sol dual core rad if yours needs replacing.

I can't believe your mechanic gave the car back to you running like crap and things not working and with the car overheating....i wouldn't go back there if i were you.

Yes sir I know how you feel with the mechanic that did the job, but perhaps you need a second opinion. Check your PM

so today i had a dual core aluminum rad and slim fan put in and my car does not over heat anymore.... thats one problem solved..... bought the rad on ebay for 59.99 (120 after shipping, US conversion and duty) and the fan for $39.99 ($80 after shipping and US conversion)

the car also used to bog a bit from the getgo but the mechanic slightly advanced the ignition timing and now its ok....

and the sudden lag and loss of power between 4-5k rpm and when i apply full throttle is no longer apparent once i switched to a 2 1/4 inch catback pipe..

my car is now running as id expect it to.... and i will be taking it to a dyno later this week to see how much power im putting out...

i still dont have the proper ecu with ctr map and am currently running a p72 with a custom map for gsr but it seems to be running fine (for now)...

and the crap gas mileage i was getting before, 300km per tank has also increased to 400 km since the switch of the ecu..

So my car ran fine for the past 48 hours..........
today in the evening i was driving enthusiastically making my way thru 3rd gear when i had a violent backfire/misfire(?) and a sudden loss of power.... my car is now sputtering like a go-kart and is very slow....
it feels almost as if one or more cylinders is not firing...
i also smell fuel.....
i checked my tailpipe and there is soot in it, and considering i just put in new piping and muffler on tuesday the soot is fresh..

WHAT'S GOING ON???? HELP!!!!!

ouch! That happened to me b4 and It was my valves and retainers.

Also made a nice dent in the piston. Did you over rev the car? or perhaps mishift?

were you running 94 octane?

hmm well i have been revving it up to the 8k range for the last 2 days.... but id assume thats safe with my motor....

but i havent misshifted.......

and ya im running 94 oct.... i wouldnt assume this is bad either