Bryce

Hey guys,

Ive been doing some reasearch over the months since my car is in storage. Im thinking of a boosting my current setup over the winter to have on the road for march. I already have a turbo kit and here are the specs

-Toyota CT26 Turbo Internally Gated at 7psi
-Turbosmart BOV
-All charge piping
-Custom Turbo Manifold (can add external wastegate)
-Front-mount Intercooler
-Custom 2.5" downpipe
-All charge piping is 2.5"
-Hardware + Fittings

It is already fit for a GSR w/ Sk2 I/M.

My current engine setup is

GSR Block w/Itr Pistons
TypeR Head w/ Ctr Gears/Camshafts

So my questions or concerns are thus:

1. If i shoul run 10.0 Comp. Forged Pistons or lower. Now i know this turbo is cable of running 15psi-20psi. But 7psi will be fine for me with a motor that is already making 200whp N/A. And obviously new rods. Basically the way im thinking is if i lower my compression TOO much ie a 9.5 comp. piston 7psi wont be enough and i will have to get the turbo re-done with an external wastegate to run more boost.

2. My head is in decent shape it only has about 25xxxkm on it its fairly new, Im basically thinking i can keep my valvetrain setup and still make noice power up top with VTEC.

3. Injectors, ECU obviously i will need. Now power goals im only boosting 7psi. So in theory what size injectors should i run 450s? 410s? (Already have a fuel pump Walbro & Fuel pressure regulator.

Bottem line i want this setup to be safe, and with good tuning i think it is acheiveable.

My goal is not to achieve high horsepower numbers. Horsepower is a dirivatve of Tourqe, and the whole point of boosting is to increase the tourqe my little 1.8 fourbanger can make. Im looking to acheive at least 200wtrq (currently making 144trq).

ahh yes.. traction bars, sticky tires :P of course.

Ill apreciate any info / help / tips you guys can provide. Except for Chris haha jk bud.

imported_mikepasini

i would run around pistons similar to a gsr because people keep saying that gsr boosted can handle 10 psi on stock internals if you're engine is in good shape and make great numbers. i would get forged pistos/rods like zeeman was telling me.

i don't see why you couldn't achieve 180-190 lbs/ft of torque off the 7psi with similar compression to a gsr.

if you are doing the pistons though, do arp rod bolts and head studs... may as well strengthen it more... you running a type-r crank? i can't remember...

that turbo setup sounds pretty familiar... i wonder... hmmm.

Bryce

Indeed a Type-R Crank mike

imported_SilverSleeper

Bryce, you bought Mike's turbo kit?

Bryce

Somthing like that.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

usually eagle rods come with ARP rod bolts or its an optional upgrade at least.
10:1 is good and will make nice power, yet still be safe with higher boost levels when u wanna ditch that turbo and get a wicked manifold.
I'd go with a minimum of 440s.
If you're after more torque and have deep pockets and since you'd be replacing the pistons/rods, use a LS crank/rods/pistons to increase the stroke and give you a broader torque band, and still have the nice crank girdle.
Keep your head the way it is, grab some adjustable gears and some ARPs if you're not already using some.

LEITNER

do the exhaust guides for sure if you have the head off.

dingus888

man that turbo is gonna run outta steam so early and make not power at all...fall flat in it's face around 6000-6500 good for d series not for b series

ditch that turbo and get somthign bigger 50 trim t3/4 variant or bigger

chris_si98

andy, like I told you.

boost it stock now, just get colder plugs, good tune, etc.

I'd get 650cc injectors (cause i know you'll turn up the boost) with a 255lph pump

While your boosting around at low boost.. grab a spare b18 block and build that!

Bryce

dingus888

dude it's a tiny little thing not meant for high reving b series engines, it will be running outta steam before you get up on your vtec lobe get something bigger

imported_Zyepher

Going to be hard to get him to believe that lol.

Bryce

The trim size is a 46.

There are many articles about this Turbo " falling flat on its face ". In higher revs. But remember dingus those articles are relating to a 3.0 litre motor. Its a suitable size for mysetup. especially at 7psi

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

common newb misunderstanding. PSI has nothing to do with flow capacity. I'm not saying anything about the turbo, I don't care to comment on it. but don't mistake PSI and CFM. they are two independent concepts.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

^^^^^excatly.

7psi out of that CT26 turbo and 7psi out of a larger turbo thats better suited for your application will be a whole different beast.

imported_Zyepher

oh now andy is gona be mad at j00

Bryce

I Understand what you guys are saying but i can always upgrade the turbo or build it. I understand a bigger turbo would better benifit my setup but i already have the kit, prefabbed prefitted i mayaswell put it on since my plans are to boost the car.

The point of this post was to gather opinions on block setup, ie crank pistons rods. I apreciate the construtive critisism.

And Zyepher stop post whoring

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

the only problem is, its not always as easy as just upgrading the turbo.
You usually need a different manifold, then the turbo will be in a different location, so you'll need to get a new downpipe made or yours modified, same with the charge pipe. And the oil feed/return might need to be a little different (maybe not).

WayFastWhitie

if you can sell the engine and buy a bone stock gsr, build a decent turbo setup with the extra money and make 300+hp.

your compression is too high to boost, i wouldnt go past 260-270hp if you do.. and others dont comment on k20's making good HP #'s stock on higher compression, the piston/combustion chamber design is much different then of a b series.

goodluck though!

WayFastWhitie

its like a bubble air compressor at 100psi vs a large cast iron compressor at 100psi, can only paint a car with one of them.. But both make 100psi :P