bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

ok I don't recommend antiseize on closed ended lugs, but I use it cuz I know how... others who don't know how could get it twisted and *** isht up. that's why I don't recommend it.

as for me using it, I'm not the least bit worried about my lug nuts being out of spec on the torque, and I'm not at all worried about them coming off.

as for sliders, I used to think antiseize was the bomb, used to use it all the time... thing is I found if not serviced like all the time, antiseize drys up and bonds with brake dust, making a helluva mess... I actually go out and buy brake specific lubricant now, and I'm 100% more confident in my brakes and their longevity. like it was fine before, but 2x per year it required redoing... now, the lube I use lasts hella longer and I don't have to service the brakes as often. whiplash, I really do recommend going out and getting brake caliper lube, try it and you won't go back to antiseize for floating caliper jobs.

imported_janz3n

oh my god.. why dont you just give up? lol iv never heard of anyone using anti seize on lug nuts..


ok chris. your right your always right. i give up. have a nice day.

imported_chris_v2

100 ft lbs is a bit too high on our cars (since your being so ****)

imported_chris_v2

Because I don't want people on here thinking "oh **** I better not put anti-seize on my rust bucket because my torque is going to be off a few pounds" Anti-seize product metal surfaces, if you were building an engine where the torque spec was to be precise then I would worry but for torquing on a wheel? come on now.. most torque wrenches and torque sticks aren't even accurate anyways.

imported_chris_v2

mind explaining what's your opinion on properly using anti-seize?

Just wana make sure we're on the same page here.. and I agree with your point on how a/s dries up over time, I forgot to mention that. Anti-seize is not really meant to be used as a long-term lubricate.. especially on something as vital as caliper sliders

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

just don't put so much on that it would squeeze into the closed end of the lug and cause compression. I just put a lil bit on one side of the stud and let the lug nut ****** it out.

Oldspower

you're wrong actually. especially if you have aluminum wheels. aluminum being softer also expands and contracts more, thus needed a higher torque spec. There are torque specs for almost everything on a car, minus things like interior/tail lights etc obviously. And when putting on lugs, I always use closed, but it is important that there is not any debris both on the hub and on the hub of the wheel mating surface. Another key point is to not put ANY fluid or what have you on the threads of the lug nut/bolt. Reason being, is fluids do not compress. You WILL have innaccurate torquing, and it is recommended that any rust, fluids- oil/anti whatever the hell you put on your studs, that is not lugs, is removed. Lugs nuts WILL NOT get stuck on, and if they do, you are not rotating your tires every other oil change or 8-10k kms which is the general rule of thumb for maintenence. But if you're finding that the lugs are too tight you're over torquing which is a bad thing. Steel wheels on a Honda should be 85-90 ft/lbs, and aluminum should be around 100 ft/lbs. NO FLUID, thats dry. And don't forget to re-torque your wheels after 2 weeks or 300 kms, whichever comes first, of putting the wheels on. Remeber what threads are designed to do, is pinch something together, and the lug nuts is designed to thread onto the wheel stud(s) and pinch the wheels onto the hub. The manufacturer has designed the wheel to operate in a specific mannor, thus why torque specs are existant. If you over torque a German car, such as a Porsche or VW, in extreme cases the lug bolt will go in so far it feels as though you have the brakes on, since it pushes so far in from way over tightening them.
-Chris

imported_janz3n

i dont do ****.

imported_playboyesq

no not good on sliders..for brakes? antisieze eats the rubber around the sliders.

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

edit... had to add the quote...

^^ WTF is that, that's the most cracked out thing I've ever heard. Someone else reading this might actually think you know what you're talking about!!

first of all, the spec is 80 lbs-ft. not lubricating the lug nuts (or any bolt/nut) will cause higher friction and lead to undertorquing of the wheel. I'm not saying fill the lugnut... if you don't trust yourself use a lightweight oil that will drip off the stud and only leave a fine film behind for lubricity. yes, re-torquing the wheels to 80 lbs-ft after a couple hundred clicks is required because it will have gone through a few thermal cycles from the brakes warming up and cooling off...

rotating the tires... our cars are super light weight, if you don't drive like an idiot, then rotating the tires once a year is more then enough... less weight, less momentum, less momentum, less tire wear.

and no, german lug studs don't push so far in... use your head before you say something like that. for example, some BMWs come with winter steelies as part of the package... the thickness of the hub mounting surface on the aluminium wheel vs. the steel wheel is quite a bit... therefore the lugs screw in further when on steelies... yet this doesn't cause any issues with the brakes.

an overtorqued bolt doesn't screw further in BTW... it stretches itself and distorts the threads.

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

not the guide pins... I think marty is talking about the spring clips that hold the pad in place and allow it to slide on the caliper carrier.

imported_janz3n

theres still no point in using anti seize on lug nuts. no point at all. my lug nuts have never seized on ever.

Oldspower

why the **** wouldnt you rotate your tires. It prolongs life of the tires, doesnt matter how light the car is, they still say rotate your tires. So I guess longer lug bolts that VW guys use to adapt aftermarket or different wheels, dont pinch too hard, and thats why I've seen it before. But youre right everything i said was wrong.. come on. and i said 85-90 ft lbs on steel because most people will need an extension on it, so you lose some of the torquing from the flex of the extension. But thanks. and you're still not supposed to put any fluid on the studs. keep arguing, but you're not, thats just how it is. so shut up and stop telling everyone they are wrong, it's an open forum, not a **** society where what you say goes.

imported_chris_v2

well i've seen countless ones that are rusted to ****.

imported_janz3n

if there rusted then clean them up get new lug nuts and dont worry about it.

a teacher, that used to work as a mechanic that teaches 100's of people maybe 1000's told me not to use anything on lug nuts.. im going to trust him before some punk kid on tcc .... the end.

imported_chris_v2

That's fine..

you aren't educated, I wouldn't expect you to have an opinion anyways.

imported_janz3n

really? thats funny. iv graduated highschool years ago... im almost done college.. good try with the lame come back why dont you just give up? your not always right, im sorry but thats life. dont tell people the wrong info. i would hate to see someones wheel fall off on the 401 because of you.

Oldspower

unless it were his of course, in which case, it may happen one day. lol.