NOS on my LS engine??
26-Feb-2003, 02:15 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 743
NOS on my LS engine??
hey guys...
i'm a newbie at Nitrous.....
i have a I/H/E, Chipped ecu
NGK spark plug wires...
what else do i need?
is there a write up on how to install the nitrous....
i've already read everything on clubsi.com
but the information was not that clear...
can someone please give me more info...
thanks
and how would i be able to run the nitrous safely?
is 75 shot too much....
someone is selling me the NOS DRY kit for 300....comes with everything......is that a good price?
do i need a EMS?
i want to tune the engine with the Laptop that i have....what program would be good....
i would like to upgrade to turbo later...what EMS is good for both NOS and TURBO?
thanks
i'm a newbie at Nitrous.....
i have a I/H/E, Chipped ecu
NGK spark plug wires...
what else do i need?
is there a write up on how to install the nitrous....
i've already read everything on clubsi.com
but the information was not that clear...
can someone please give me more info...
thanks
and how would i be able to run the nitrous safely?
is 75 shot too much....
someone is selling me the NOS DRY kit for 300....comes with everything......is that a good price?
do i need a EMS?
i want to tune the engine with the Laptop that i have....what program would be good....
i would like to upgrade to turbo later...what EMS is good for both NOS and TURBO?
thanks
26-Feb-2003, 03:15 PM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 115
For the purpose of this article I will cover the four main types of nitrous injection, which are dry, wet, direct port, and plate injection.
• DRY
By far the easiest to understand and use of all four types is the dry injection system so we will cover it first. Probably when you think of a street-car running nitrous you are thinking of this form of injection. Companies such as Zex and NOS have made dry systems extremely popular recently. Usually these systems are activated at wide-open throttle (WOT) and are almost as easy to use as just flooring the accelerator. A dry manifold injection system works by simply spraying only nitrous into the intake manifold. At this point, the cars fuel injectors must supply enough fuel to burn the additional oxygen.
Now, remembering what we learned earlier about fuel being the key to nitrous injection, we can see the biggest disadvantage to having a dry system. Because the cars fuel injectors are supplying the additional fuel the amount of power you can gain from a dry system is going to be limited. As a general rule of thumb you can only get a maximum of a 75 hp shot out of a dry system. Another common problem with dry kits is that they suffer from distribution problems, meaning that there is always the possibility that the cylinders will get an uneven amount of nitrous sprayed into them. This uneven distribution can cause the injection to be less potent. However, dry kits have some good advantages as well. As I mentioned above, dry kits are very easy to install and use so that means they are perfect for the nitrous beginner. Also if you opt for a Zex kit you get the benefit of a “computer controlled safety module.” Just be careful and do not let the “safety features” lure you into thinking that you are 100% safe from mishaps.
• WET
The next type of system that we will cover is the wet system. In the wet system both fuel and nitrous are mixed together before they are injected. The most common Honda/Acura wet system that you will encounter is the “single fogger” set-up but there are also plate kits, direct port injections, and multi-stage injections as well. There are several manufactures of wet nitrous systems, but the main ones are NOS and Nitrous Express. In a typical wet set-up both fuel and nitrous are delivered and separated from each other by solenoids. Once the system is activated both the fuel and nitrous are pumped into jets/nozzles that will mix the fuel and nitrous together before allowing it to flow into the engine. These systems can be either set-up to inject at WOT or at the push of a button that the driver controls.
Now although wet nitrous injection does have some special problems (especially the single fogger), it is the best way to experience true nitrous power. Because the mixing of fuel and nitrous is done by the solenoids and jets, you get a more accurate shot and you do not have the limitations on a “safe” shot size like you have in a dry system. Wet systems will allow you to use any size shot of nitrous that you want, just be sure you have taken the necessary precautions with your engine. Another advantage of wet kits over dry is the multiple application methods of which we will discuss a little later. Some of the disadvantages that you can expect to see with wet kits are increased install time and costs, extra engine build up and support modifications cost, and more monitoring and maintenance of your engine.
The best thing about the wet systems in my opinion is the ability to lay down some serious power for the good old drag strip! Two of the most common ways to do this is with either a NOS Plate Kit for the Acura GSR and Honda Prelude or Direct Port systems. In terms of monster nitrous power the plate kit that NOS makes for the Acura GSR is the best bang for your buck. People who have installed the plate kit correctly can easily rival a turbocharged car any day of the week. The reason the plate kit is only available for the GSR is due to the installation requirements. Basically what happens is that a plate is installed between the two-piece intake manifold found on GSR’s or Honda Preludes. This allows the nitrous and fuel to be directly injected into the intake as opposed to jets spraying nitrous into the intake. The end result will absolutely amaze you, please trust me on this one!! In terms of shot size the plate kit ranges anywhere between 75-200 hp so there is great flexibility to be found with it. Unfortunately, all that power can cause some problems if your engine is not somewhat built or supported with the proper support modifications. We will get into what exactly is needed/recommended for each application in a little while but for now on to the last type of injection that we will discuss. The final nitrous application is direct port injection. Essentially, you will hardly ever see direct port injection on the street because it is usually a race only application. For our purposes lets keep if fairly simple and just lightly touch on it because it can get very complicated very quickly. Direct port injection works by directly spraying nitrous and fuel into each intake port on the engine independently. This makes direct port the best system to have if you need to adjust the amount of nitrous for each cylinder independently of each other. It is a very complicated injection method and is extremely challenging to install, therefore it is usually best to leave this type to the pros!
Dry vs. Wet. Which is better?
This question always comes up with every nitrous discussion. The bottom line is what is your ultimate goal? If you are just looking for a small performance increase, working with a small budget, or new to nitrous then the dry system is the best way to go. On the other hand, if you are looking for big nitrous power, building a drag car, or you feel comfortable with nitrous injection and have the money to spend to get the proper support modifications then a wet system is probably for you. If you have any doubts about nitrous at all then the best policy is to wait and decide if it is really what you want to do. If you are unsure about your decision then research some more or ride in a nitrous powered car until you feel sure about your decision. Better safe than sorry if you ask me!
Equipment Needed
In this next section we will cover the recommended equipment needed for each shot size. There has been and will always be a debate about exactly what kind of support modifications are needed for each shot. My point here is to make a list of things that will keep your engine as safe as possible. Your local performance shop or friends might tell you to add or subtract things from this list but if you follow the guidelines I am about set, you will be as safe as possible. Also, remember as with any other form of forced induction, sometimes bad things happen and even the best precautions cannot stop them but that is the risk we all run when we enter the realm of performance modifications.
The basics
In order to be as safe as possible I would recommend “the basics” for anyone running nitrous. I am also going to assume that you already have an intake, header, and exhaust installed. The basics set-up will be the same for both dry and wet applications with the exception of a 255 lph fuel pump that is recommended for a wet set-up due to the increased fuel requirements.
1. Aftermarket ignition, wires, cap, rotor, and coil. MSD is the most popular brand. If you are on a budget then the MSD 6AL will work fine but if you have some extra cash to spend then the MSD Digital 6 is very nice to have. The great thing about the Digital 6 ignition is that it will automatically retard your timing when you activate the nitrous system and it has a dual stage rev limiter all built in! **Unless you are planning on getting a Jacobs Nitrous Mastermind, then the Digital 6 is my recommended ignition.**
2. Colder spark plugs. NGK bkr7e usually work fine. Make sure to always use copper plugs and avoid platinum and make double sure to gap them correctly.
3. Fuel pressure regulator. B&M is an excellent brand to get.
4. Timing change. The rule of thumb is 2 degrees for every 50 shot of nitrous. This is always under debate but to be absolutely safe use the rule of thumb.
5. A performance clutch because the stock clutch will probably not last long.
• 60 shot or less
“The basics” should be just fine. As noted above there is a constant debate over what exactly is needed. Some people will run a 50 shot with stock everything and be just fine while others will buy some extra parts to be safe. The bottom line is use your best judgment here.
• 60-70 shot
“The basics” and make absolutely sure to adjust your timing by one or two degrees.
• 75 shot
“The basics” and make sure to have you timing kicked back at least 3 degrees. This is also the maximum shot you want to use with a dry kit so unless you just want to blow your motor keep it here for all you dry kit guys. At this level you are probably most likely to see lean conditions and detonation therefore it might be a good idea to pick up an Apexi or Fields vtec/fuel computer so that you can control your fuel flow a little more.
• 75-100 shot
At this level you have officially entered wet kit territory so “The basics” and a 255 lph fuel pump are required. Some other goodies that you might want to seriously consider would be a Jacobs Nitrous Mastermind, an Apexi or Fields vtec controller, performance brakes, and motor mount inserts. Also since at this point you are spraying quite a bit of nitrous into the engine, building up the bottom end is an excellent idea. Some things to consider here would be forged pistons, rods, and crankshaft, and a port and polished head.
• 100+ shot
Once you reach this level you must be seriously racing. Everything that is listed for the 75-100 shot is required and an engine build-up and larger fuel injectors are a must now too. You will also want to look into getting a limited slip differential kit so that you can get traction. Once you reach this level you are going to have to be very familiar and comfortable with nitrous or an accident is just waiting to happen.
Goodies to get for the nitrous kit
1. Bottle heater – a must for every nitrous user. This will allow you to keep your bottle pressure at the optimal level. NOS says 900-950psi is optimal but other brands may vary so be sure to check with the manufacturer to be safe.
2. Bottle blanket - to keep your bottle nice and warm so that you can maintain proper pressure.
3. Purge kit – so that you can remove any air that is in your nitrous lines to ensure a good shot. Also it looks really cool to purge at the line right before you pull up to the staging lights at the track! There is no better way to get a good reaction from the crowd then a nice purge before staging! Word of caution though, it looks cool but it is also a fantastic waste of nitrous so don't make it a habit of purging all the time.
4. Pressure gauge – so that you know your pressure is correct to ensure a good shot.
5. Remote bottle opener – very useful in my opinion. A remote bottle opener will allow you to open and close the bottle with a flick of a switch instead of getting out and manually turning the nitrous bottle on and off.
• DRY
By far the easiest to understand and use of all four types is the dry injection system so we will cover it first. Probably when you think of a street-car running nitrous you are thinking of this form of injection. Companies such as Zex and NOS have made dry systems extremely popular recently. Usually these systems are activated at wide-open throttle (WOT) and are almost as easy to use as just flooring the accelerator. A dry manifold injection system works by simply spraying only nitrous into the intake manifold. At this point, the cars fuel injectors must supply enough fuel to burn the additional oxygen.
Now, remembering what we learned earlier about fuel being the key to nitrous injection, we can see the biggest disadvantage to having a dry system. Because the cars fuel injectors are supplying the additional fuel the amount of power you can gain from a dry system is going to be limited. As a general rule of thumb you can only get a maximum of a 75 hp shot out of a dry system. Another common problem with dry kits is that they suffer from distribution problems, meaning that there is always the possibility that the cylinders will get an uneven amount of nitrous sprayed into them. This uneven distribution can cause the injection to be less potent. However, dry kits have some good advantages as well. As I mentioned above, dry kits are very easy to install and use so that means they are perfect for the nitrous beginner. Also if you opt for a Zex kit you get the benefit of a “computer controlled safety module.” Just be careful and do not let the “safety features” lure you into thinking that you are 100% safe from mishaps.
• WET
The next type of system that we will cover is the wet system. In the wet system both fuel and nitrous are mixed together before they are injected. The most common Honda/Acura wet system that you will encounter is the “single fogger” set-up but there are also plate kits, direct port injections, and multi-stage injections as well. There are several manufactures of wet nitrous systems, but the main ones are NOS and Nitrous Express. In a typical wet set-up both fuel and nitrous are delivered and separated from each other by solenoids. Once the system is activated both the fuel and nitrous are pumped into jets/nozzles that will mix the fuel and nitrous together before allowing it to flow into the engine. These systems can be either set-up to inject at WOT or at the push of a button that the driver controls.
Now although wet nitrous injection does have some special problems (especially the single fogger), it is the best way to experience true nitrous power. Because the mixing of fuel and nitrous is done by the solenoids and jets, you get a more accurate shot and you do not have the limitations on a “safe” shot size like you have in a dry system. Wet systems will allow you to use any size shot of nitrous that you want, just be sure you have taken the necessary precautions with your engine. Another advantage of wet kits over dry is the multiple application methods of which we will discuss a little later. Some of the disadvantages that you can expect to see with wet kits are increased install time and costs, extra engine build up and support modifications cost, and more monitoring and maintenance of your engine.
The best thing about the wet systems in my opinion is the ability to lay down some serious power for the good old drag strip! Two of the most common ways to do this is with either a NOS Plate Kit for the Acura GSR and Honda Prelude or Direct Port systems. In terms of monster nitrous power the plate kit that NOS makes for the Acura GSR is the best bang for your buck. People who have installed the plate kit correctly can easily rival a turbocharged car any day of the week. The reason the plate kit is only available for the GSR is due to the installation requirements. Basically what happens is that a plate is installed between the two-piece intake manifold found on GSR’s or Honda Preludes. This allows the nitrous and fuel to be directly injected into the intake as opposed to jets spraying nitrous into the intake. The end result will absolutely amaze you, please trust me on this one!! In terms of shot size the plate kit ranges anywhere between 75-200 hp so there is great flexibility to be found with it. Unfortunately, all that power can cause some problems if your engine is not somewhat built or supported with the proper support modifications. We will get into what exactly is needed/recommended for each application in a little while but for now on to the last type of injection that we will discuss. The final nitrous application is direct port injection. Essentially, you will hardly ever see direct port injection on the street because it is usually a race only application. For our purposes lets keep if fairly simple and just lightly touch on it because it can get very complicated very quickly. Direct port injection works by directly spraying nitrous and fuel into each intake port on the engine independently. This makes direct port the best system to have if you need to adjust the amount of nitrous for each cylinder independently of each other. It is a very complicated injection method and is extremely challenging to install, therefore it is usually best to leave this type to the pros!
Dry vs. Wet. Which is better?
This question always comes up with every nitrous discussion. The bottom line is what is your ultimate goal? If you are just looking for a small performance increase, working with a small budget, or new to nitrous then the dry system is the best way to go. On the other hand, if you are looking for big nitrous power, building a drag car, or you feel comfortable with nitrous injection and have the money to spend to get the proper support modifications then a wet system is probably for you. If you have any doubts about nitrous at all then the best policy is to wait and decide if it is really what you want to do. If you are unsure about your decision then research some more or ride in a nitrous powered car until you feel sure about your decision. Better safe than sorry if you ask me!
Equipment Needed
In this next section we will cover the recommended equipment needed for each shot size. There has been and will always be a debate about exactly what kind of support modifications are needed for each shot. My point here is to make a list of things that will keep your engine as safe as possible. Your local performance shop or friends might tell you to add or subtract things from this list but if you follow the guidelines I am about set, you will be as safe as possible. Also, remember as with any other form of forced induction, sometimes bad things happen and even the best precautions cannot stop them but that is the risk we all run when we enter the realm of performance modifications.
The basics
In order to be as safe as possible I would recommend “the basics” for anyone running nitrous. I am also going to assume that you already have an intake, header, and exhaust installed. The basics set-up will be the same for both dry and wet applications with the exception of a 255 lph fuel pump that is recommended for a wet set-up due to the increased fuel requirements.
1. Aftermarket ignition, wires, cap, rotor, and coil. MSD is the most popular brand. If you are on a budget then the MSD 6AL will work fine but if you have some extra cash to spend then the MSD Digital 6 is very nice to have. The great thing about the Digital 6 ignition is that it will automatically retard your timing when you activate the nitrous system and it has a dual stage rev limiter all built in! **Unless you are planning on getting a Jacobs Nitrous Mastermind, then the Digital 6 is my recommended ignition.**
2. Colder spark plugs. NGK bkr7e usually work fine. Make sure to always use copper plugs and avoid platinum and make double sure to gap them correctly.
3. Fuel pressure regulator. B&M is an excellent brand to get.
4. Timing change. The rule of thumb is 2 degrees for every 50 shot of nitrous. This is always under debate but to be absolutely safe use the rule of thumb.
5. A performance clutch because the stock clutch will probably not last long.
• 60 shot or less
“The basics” should be just fine. As noted above there is a constant debate over what exactly is needed. Some people will run a 50 shot with stock everything and be just fine while others will buy some extra parts to be safe. The bottom line is use your best judgment here.
• 60-70 shot
“The basics” and make absolutely sure to adjust your timing by one or two degrees.
• 75 shot
“The basics” and make sure to have you timing kicked back at least 3 degrees. This is also the maximum shot you want to use with a dry kit so unless you just want to blow your motor keep it here for all you dry kit guys. At this level you are probably most likely to see lean conditions and detonation therefore it might be a good idea to pick up an Apexi or Fields vtec/fuel computer so that you can control your fuel flow a little more.
• 75-100 shot
At this level you have officially entered wet kit territory so “The basics” and a 255 lph fuel pump are required. Some other goodies that you might want to seriously consider would be a Jacobs Nitrous Mastermind, an Apexi or Fields vtec controller, performance brakes, and motor mount inserts. Also since at this point you are spraying quite a bit of nitrous into the engine, building up the bottom end is an excellent idea. Some things to consider here would be forged pistons, rods, and crankshaft, and a port and polished head.
• 100+ shot
Once you reach this level you must be seriously racing. Everything that is listed for the 75-100 shot is required and an engine build-up and larger fuel injectors are a must now too. You will also want to look into getting a limited slip differential kit so that you can get traction. Once you reach this level you are going to have to be very familiar and comfortable with nitrous or an accident is just waiting to happen.
Goodies to get for the nitrous kit
1. Bottle heater – a must for every nitrous user. This will allow you to keep your bottle pressure at the optimal level. NOS says 900-950psi is optimal but other brands may vary so be sure to check with the manufacturer to be safe.
2. Bottle blanket - to keep your bottle nice and warm so that you can maintain proper pressure.
3. Purge kit – so that you can remove any air that is in your nitrous lines to ensure a good shot. Also it looks really cool to purge at the line right before you pull up to the staging lights at the track! There is no better way to get a good reaction from the crowd then a nice purge before staging! Word of caution though, it looks cool but it is also a fantastic waste of nitrous so don't make it a habit of purging all the time.
4. Pressure gauge – so that you know your pressure is correct to ensure a good shot.
5. Remote bottle opener – very useful in my opinion. A remote bottle opener will allow you to open and close the bottle with a flick of a switch instead of getting out and manually turning the nitrous bottle on and off.
26-Feb-2003, 03:34 PM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 115
Here is some more FAQ....
Is nitrous safe?
Absolutely, so long as you have taken the proper precautions and do not get carried away with the shot size.
How big of a shot can my car take?
For Honda/Acura street cars the maximum shot that you should ever consider running is a 125 shot and this is extreme! Most people however will run somewhere between a 50-80 shot. Just remember that with a dry kit you can only go up to a 75 shot. If you have any aspirations to go higher then you will need a wet set-up.
When should I spray?
The best time to start the injection is right after you have gained traction and are at wide-open throttle (WOT). Additionally, you should NOT spray while in 1st or 5th gear. The reason you don’t want to spray in 1st gear is because unless you have a progressive nitrous controller you will never be able to get traction off the line under full spray conditions. As for 5th gear, this is your highway gear and is not meant to handle a big jolt of power. You will also want to keep from spraying in anything under 2500 rpm or above 7800 rpm (remember where your fuel cutoff is and don’t hit it!!).
How long should I spray?
Although you could theoretically keep the nitrous flowing until the bottle is empty, the general rule of thumb is 15 consecutive seconds maximum.
I have an automatic transmission!! Can I still use nitrous?
Yes, you can but it is best that you keep the shot relatively low (no more than 75). For smaller shots the automatic guys can actually sometimes get a better benefit out of nitrous than manual guys because you do not have to get off the gas to shift. The problem is that over time the bands in the auto tranny will eventually wear out.
I have high miles!! Can I still use nitrous?
Yes, you can but make absolutely sure that your car will pass a leak down and compression test PRIOR to the installation of nitrous. You have to be sure that your rings and seals are all in good condition or problems will start to arise very quickly.
How many shots can I get out of my bottle?
That depends upon what size shot you are running and how long you are spraying each shot. A good estimate is approximately 4-5mins total on a 10 lb. bottle but then again there are a lot of variables involved. Holley, the makers of NOS say this, “For example, a 125 HP Shot kit with a standard 10 lb. capacity bottle will usually offer up to 7 to 10 full quarter-mile passes.”
What will nitrous do to my 1/4 mile times?
This question will depend upon TONS of other factors like modifications and driver skill but as a general rule of thumb this is what you can expect.
50 shot will take about .5-.75 seconds off your 1/4 time
70 shot will take about .75-1 seconds off your 1/4 time
100 shot will take about 1-1.5 seconds off your 1/4 time
Will I be able to see a dramatic performance gain when I spray?
Usually if you are only running a 50-60 shot you will only feel a very slight kick in acceleration. It is when you get to the 70+ shot level that you start to really “feel” the nitrous kick. The point here is to understand that you will not be able to rule the drag strip on a 50 shot. Now, that being said, if you use a plate kit (for GSR’s only remember) or a direct port injection kit then you will be able run with/beat SOME of the domestics and turbo guys.
What should my bottle pressure be in order to get a good shot?
The best bottle pressure to have is usually somewhere between 900-1050 psi. Your best bet is to find out what the manufacturer recommends.
Is nitrous illegal?
For most states it is ILLEGAL to have the nitrous system ARMED while driving on public roads. If you are just driving around with the system off then you should be safe. That is why a remote bottle opener is such a great thing! The best thing to do though is to check with your local and state laws. What’s the moral of the story you ask?? DON’T GET CAUGHT BY THE POLICE WHILE RUNNING NITROUS ON THE STREETS!! Be smart and use common sense.
Do I really have to retard my timing?
Well, as I mentioned in my Nitrous Basics article this topic is always under debate. Just remember the rule of thumb, which is to retard timing 2 degrees for each 50 shot of nitrous. The best thing to do is to get a MSD Digital 6 ignition or a Jacobs Nitrous Mastermind with a lower level ignition (*will not work with ZEX*). Both of these products will automatically retard your timing only when they sense boost, otherwise you get to keep you normal timing.
Will I need to build up my engine to run nitrous?
Please refer to the Nitrous Basics article for this one!
I like gauges!! Which ones make sense for a nitrous set-up?
Some good gauges to have in your nitrous set-up are:
Nitrous pressure gauge
Fuel pressure gauge
Air/fuel gauge
What’s a window switch and do I need one?
A window switch is an add-on component that will only spray nitrous in a specified range. They use “pills” just like a shift light to determine the “window”. For example, lets say that you do not want the nitrous to spray unless you are between 4500-7500 rpm’s. What you would need to do is simply put in a 4500 pill and a 7500 pill so that the nitrous will start after you have traction (hopefully around 4500 right!) and will stop before you get close to your redline/fuel cutoff (thus 7500). It is a nice thing to have if you want to be in total control of you nitrous system and cannot afford a progressive nitrous controller but it is defiantly not necessary.
Do I really need a bottle heater and/or a nitrous blanket?
ABSOLTULY!! When compressed nitrous gets “cold” while sitting in the bottle the psi will begin to fall. If your bottle pressure falls below the recommended psi then your shot will be very weak or completely ineffective. That is why it is vitally important to keep your bottle nice and warm. Don’t even think about running a serious nitrous set-up with out one.
Ok, I know you need colder spark plugs to safely run nitrous. What is a good spark plug to run?
NGK bkr7e’s are a great choice and my recommended plug but you can also use Zex plugs or any plug that has a similar profile to the NGK's as well.
Is nitrous safe?
Absolutely, so long as you have taken the proper precautions and do not get carried away with the shot size.
How big of a shot can my car take?
For Honda/Acura street cars the maximum shot that you should ever consider running is a 125 shot and this is extreme! Most people however will run somewhere between a 50-80 shot. Just remember that with a dry kit you can only go up to a 75 shot. If you have any aspirations to go higher then you will need a wet set-up.
When should I spray?
The best time to start the injection is right after you have gained traction and are at wide-open throttle (WOT). Additionally, you should NOT spray while in 1st or 5th gear. The reason you don’t want to spray in 1st gear is because unless you have a progressive nitrous controller you will never be able to get traction off the line under full spray conditions. As for 5th gear, this is your highway gear and is not meant to handle a big jolt of power. You will also want to keep from spraying in anything under 2500 rpm or above 7800 rpm (remember where your fuel cutoff is and don’t hit it!!).
How long should I spray?
Although you could theoretically keep the nitrous flowing until the bottle is empty, the general rule of thumb is 15 consecutive seconds maximum.
I have an automatic transmission!! Can I still use nitrous?
Yes, you can but it is best that you keep the shot relatively low (no more than 75). For smaller shots the automatic guys can actually sometimes get a better benefit out of nitrous than manual guys because you do not have to get off the gas to shift. The problem is that over time the bands in the auto tranny will eventually wear out.
I have high miles!! Can I still use nitrous?
Yes, you can but make absolutely sure that your car will pass a leak down and compression test PRIOR to the installation of nitrous. You have to be sure that your rings and seals are all in good condition or problems will start to arise very quickly.
How many shots can I get out of my bottle?
That depends upon what size shot you are running and how long you are spraying each shot. A good estimate is approximately 4-5mins total on a 10 lb. bottle but then again there are a lot of variables involved. Holley, the makers of NOS say this, “For example, a 125 HP Shot kit with a standard 10 lb. capacity bottle will usually offer up to 7 to 10 full quarter-mile passes.”
What will nitrous do to my 1/4 mile times?
This question will depend upon TONS of other factors like modifications and driver skill but as a general rule of thumb this is what you can expect.
50 shot will take about .5-.75 seconds off your 1/4 time
70 shot will take about .75-1 seconds off your 1/4 time
100 shot will take about 1-1.5 seconds off your 1/4 time
Will I be able to see a dramatic performance gain when I spray?
Usually if you are only running a 50-60 shot you will only feel a very slight kick in acceleration. It is when you get to the 70+ shot level that you start to really “feel” the nitrous kick. The point here is to understand that you will not be able to rule the drag strip on a 50 shot. Now, that being said, if you use a plate kit (for GSR’s only remember) or a direct port injection kit then you will be able run with/beat SOME of the domestics and turbo guys.
What should my bottle pressure be in order to get a good shot?
The best bottle pressure to have is usually somewhere between 900-1050 psi. Your best bet is to find out what the manufacturer recommends.
Is nitrous illegal?
For most states it is ILLEGAL to have the nitrous system ARMED while driving on public roads. If you are just driving around with the system off then you should be safe. That is why a remote bottle opener is such a great thing! The best thing to do though is to check with your local and state laws. What’s the moral of the story you ask?? DON’T GET CAUGHT BY THE POLICE WHILE RUNNING NITROUS ON THE STREETS!! Be smart and use common sense.
Do I really have to retard my timing?
Well, as I mentioned in my Nitrous Basics article this topic is always under debate. Just remember the rule of thumb, which is to retard timing 2 degrees for each 50 shot of nitrous. The best thing to do is to get a MSD Digital 6 ignition or a Jacobs Nitrous Mastermind with a lower level ignition (*will not work with ZEX*). Both of these products will automatically retard your timing only when they sense boost, otherwise you get to keep you normal timing.
Will I need to build up my engine to run nitrous?
Please refer to the Nitrous Basics article for this one!
I like gauges!! Which ones make sense for a nitrous set-up?
Some good gauges to have in your nitrous set-up are:
Nitrous pressure gauge
Fuel pressure gauge
Air/fuel gauge
What’s a window switch and do I need one?
A window switch is an add-on component that will only spray nitrous in a specified range. They use “pills” just like a shift light to determine the “window”. For example, lets say that you do not want the nitrous to spray unless you are between 4500-7500 rpm’s. What you would need to do is simply put in a 4500 pill and a 7500 pill so that the nitrous will start after you have traction (hopefully around 4500 right!) and will stop before you get close to your redline/fuel cutoff (thus 7500). It is a nice thing to have if you want to be in total control of you nitrous system and cannot afford a progressive nitrous controller but it is defiantly not necessary.
Do I really need a bottle heater and/or a nitrous blanket?
ABSOLTULY!! When compressed nitrous gets “cold” while sitting in the bottle the psi will begin to fall. If your bottle pressure falls below the recommended psi then your shot will be very weak or completely ineffective. That is why it is vitally important to keep your bottle nice and warm. Don’t even think about running a serious nitrous set-up with out one.
Ok, I know you need colder spark plugs to safely run nitrous. What is a good spark plug to run?
NGK bkr7e’s are a great choice and my recommended plug but you can also use Zex plugs or any plug that has a similar profile to the NGK's as well.
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