no engine light when o2 sensor is disconnected!!
#1
no engine light when o2 sensor is disconnected!!
Whats up everybody.....K...I have a b18c1 in my civic running a chipped sohc ecu.....I installed a new header and didn't connect the o2 sensor...but my f-ing engine light didn't come on...what does this mean?? Am I going to pop my motor?? help!!??! please!
#2
CEL does not set for a dead O2 cuz it can't tell it's dead... it's not outside the voltage specs at that point. Plus it's OBD1, so there wasn't a second O2 to reference to the 1st one. That was one of the big changes for OBD2... why would you pop your motor?
#3
bar.....there is a second o2 sensor that is disconnected.....I have alway had idle problems.....check this out....
when i rev up my engine...my idle bounces from then sometimes settles at 1000 rpm..sometimes at around 750..sometime at 500..why..I have no idea. Now when i drove the car without the o2 sensor pulled in...the same thing occured....there are no vacumm leak that i can detect....do u think its a comp problem?? it got me stumped!!
when i rev up my engine...my idle bounces from then sometimes settles at 1000 rpm..sometimes at around 750..sometime at 500..why..I have no idea. Now when i drove the car without the o2 sensor pulled in...the same thing occured....there are no vacumm leak that i can detect....do u think its a comp problem?? it got me stumped!!
#4
You have a 93, and a chipped SOHC ECU, right? So to be able to plug in, it MUST be OBD1 programmed, which means it expects ONE O2 sensor to be connected, not two. I don't know where you got the second O2 from
O2 has very little or rather nothing to do with idle... idle is determined based on intake air temp, coolant temp, and position of the idle air control valve. Fuct up idle can be anything from a leaky vacuum line at the FPR to ignition timing being off, to ignition components being is crusty shape... to a bad ECU program... etc. Determine if it's a fueling or air or ignition problem at idle. Test IAC valve for proper resitance and refernece signal. Clean your t-body and check for a sticky t-cable. If that checks out, and the air filter element is clean, you can rule out air problems. Hook up a vacuum gauge to your manifold... is the needle steady? When you open the throttle, does vacuum steadily move and return to normal readings? Check your fuel pressure at idle to ensure your pump is working ok. Is the rotor and dizzy in good shape, and do the wires have under 10K ohms resistance? Are the plugs gapped right and are they copper. Read the plugs... oil fouled, excessive carbon build up... glazed appearance? Run a compression check wet and dry.
O2 has very little or rather nothing to do with idle... idle is determined based on intake air temp, coolant temp, and position of the idle air control valve. Fuct up idle can be anything from a leaky vacuum line at the FPR to ignition timing being off, to ignition components being is crusty shape... to a bad ECU program... etc. Determine if it's a fueling or air or ignition problem at idle. Test IAC valve for proper resitance and refernece signal. Clean your t-body and check for a sticky t-cable. If that checks out, and the air filter element is clean, you can rule out air problems. Hook up a vacuum gauge to your manifold... is the needle steady? When you open the throttle, does vacuum steadily move and return to normal readings? Check your fuel pressure at idle to ensure your pump is working ok. Is the rotor and dizzy in good shape, and do the wires have under 10K ohms resistance? Are the plugs gapped right and are they copper. Read the plugs... oil fouled, excessive carbon build up... glazed appearance? Run a compression check wet and dry.
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