imported_sleep

i'm looking into getting nitrus for my b16... just wondering what system you guys recomend and how much of a shot can be done.

i also have itr cams.. if that changes anything at all... heh

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

50 shot, 94 octane gas... use the blue bottle NOS has been around for as long as you, maybe even longer All the new companies are just immitators. If you don't know what you're doing with nitrous, maybe you should buy ZEX... it's more idiot-proof

dingus8

I like the nx wet kit's...or the nos wet kit...I hate dry system's...your cams aren't the best choice for this...you will blow yoru motor I bet seeing how you dont' knwo to much.... I mean jsut go allmotor...but no more than a 50 shot..and you can't spray more than 14-15 secs so it's kinda stupid...nitrious was a fad that all the ricers use to use..not so much anymore for good reason everyone that used it moved on the bigger better thigns like turbo's or allmotor..somethign that is there all the time not jsut 14 sec's at a time with ample time in between as to not cause over exposure to it...if you do go get it get guages and take it to the dyno to run it to see how the s/f ratio is to ensure it's safe

dingus8

oh ya you iwll need a new clutch aswell cause the power will fry any stock type clutch you will need a strong one like a act or cm

1sloweg

Dont go dry.... no power compared to wet and a lot more hazerdous to your motor.

My suggestion is going with an nx or nos wet kit single fogger system....or if you have enough money splurge and buy the 4 fogger direct port system. On a b16 u can spray up to an 80, ive seen it done safely.

Remember for 50.... (colder plugs) thats the bare minimum u need , and 94 octane.


For 75...retard your ignition 2 degrees, upgrade your fuel pump and get a pressure regulator.


Clutch wise, go with eurodrive, best for the money IMO

imported_Gatsby

If you want:

1. Safe
2. Simple and easy on your motor
3. Plug and Play (nothing else in needs of upgrading)
4. Installation in 2 hours with simple hand tools
5. Easy and clean REMOVAL,

then there is only 1 system for you: ZEX dry system.

I used it for 8 months. Nothing to complain about. Power is awsome.

p.s. The only backdraw though, is the FEAR OF GETTING COUGHT!!




Other than that, ZEX is your answer.

imported_sleep

thanks alot guys i'm really thank full... first off i'd have a professional do the install. i don't want to mess around with that sort of thing...

i do have a stage three clutch masters clutch

any sort of interal work i should get done also to make sure it's bullet proof... even tho you probly can't make it that.

imported_BoOsTd

Its pretty well idiot proof, what more would you want as an amature??

Get a wet kit and you will be the engine rebuilders new best friend If you dont have the money to do serious work to it then go with the bolt on dry setup...

If you want to run a 75 shot safely, then I highly recomoned you swap out that weak fuel pump (and the ZEX has a built in FPR to make things even easier and cheaper), buy a set of colder plugs, and something to ignite them like a nice msd, and get a A/F guage



Nice choice of clutch BTW... Maybe you can give me some reviews on it, im gonna be in the market come springtime...

1sloweg

Zex is an utter garbage nitrous system.... any dry kit is. Sure zex is easy to install but who the **** cares? Spend the extra money and get a nince kit. THERE IS NO NITROUS SYSTEM SAFER THAN A 4 FOGGER WET KIT!

imported_BoOsTd

Please explain, share this profound knowledge of yours

There is nothing that makes a wet kit safer, it has all the same requirments, fuel, timing, spark... people blow up on dry kits cuz they are dumb and dont supply the fuel pressure to the management unit and lean out...

If your going to be serious and compete with your car then yah go wet, it has more potential... Are you building a race car or just want abit more punch for your streetcar...?

1sloweg

How do you figure there is nothing that makes a wet kit safer than a dry kit? Your a fool for even thinking this statement. How can a dry kit (just crams air in, **** the fuel ....you have to take care of that , and hey if there isnt enough fuel with the shot or number 4 cylinder leans out....then i guess your fucked)

Wet is the way to go, ask anybody who knows nitrous and has used both kits. Just nitrous Nitrous+fuel (Wet kit)

imported_BoOsTd

Next your going to tell me that a turbo is safer than a super? Its all about how the user installs and maintains the system… When dealing with 50-75 shots the only unsafe system is a true wet manifold system, where puddling in the intake manifold can occur and cause a deadly backfire…

" **** the fuel ....you have to take care of that , and hey if there isnt enough fuel with the shot or number 4 cylinder leans out"

And WTF do you think the nitrous management unit is for? Just too look nice and Ricey under the hood? you think the user has to reach through the firewall and tweak his fpr manually every time you hit the button? common think a little here bud.. The zex kit takes a vacuum line in out, nitrous in nitrous out... It takes a reading on the bottle pressure to provide the most potent mixture, and then the preset fuel jets correspond to the nitrous shot jets and adjusts vacuum accordingly for the stock fpr in turn providing more fuel at the the rail! is that so hard to understand? the only difference being wet makes the mixture before hand which requires more solenoids and complicated plumbing and more potential for human error!

Here a little comparison

Wet manifold is safer than dry in terms of internal reliability due to the richer mixture (but isn’t an issue anyway with dry kits on a Honda because were dealing with such small shots!). Wet manifold is not as safe in the respect that you are spraying fuel into your intake manifold, and one misfire can send your intake manifold through the hood.(and I realize the fogger systems minimise this hazard)

Dry is the safest if you keep the shot down to 50 (70with an upgraded pump) or so. Too big of a shot and you run lean and detonate, possibly damaging your block badly. Additional fuel is supplied by the injectors, governed by the stock ECU, relative to air density or mass as it is altered during the nitrous boost. Nitrous is not mixed with fuel at the intake tract (nitrous itself is not flammable or explosive until mixed with fuel).

So now again, please share your knowledge here and explain how a wet kit is safer so everyone can learn, and then convince company’s to stop making dry systems…Sounds like you got owned by a salesman and spent huge bones on a wet kit thats compleatly un nececary for your aplication...

Unsafe nitrous use is in the past, when comparing a wet v.s. dry its not an issue of safety, but rather how hard you wish to push your engine and ease of installation/ $$$… Bottem Line is that buying a wet kit to run a measly 50 - 75 shot is a huge *** waste of money! u want to run a 125-200 shot then we can talk wet kits...


Care to call me a fool again? Noob

dingus8

I dont' liek nitrious period....I have alway's hated dry systems and will never ever recommend one ever...I think it's cheesy that the NOS system while good quality jsut bumps up pressure to the fuel regulator to add fuel...same idea with teh zex system that jsut bumps pressure to the regulator...I dont' liek reliying on somethign like that I want to be able to tuen the fuel and nitrious my self by changing out nozzles for the fuel and nitrious and dynoing...I liek wet systems in general for that reason that you dont' have to count on a fuel pressure rise in order to add fuel...teh wet system has more potential and is more safer in the hands of a person who knows...a zex kit is ok for soem young kid who doesn't kwno much because it is all integrated and easy....might I add that nx and nos measure hp at the wheel and zex measures at the flywheel for their shot hp....I just don't like the idea of the dry systems and like the idea of the wet systems...you only have to worry abotu puddling if you have the wrong fuel nozzle sprayign way to much fuel or your manifold is designed so puddling ill occur, all the honda manifolds are fine for usign wet kit's they are designed in a way that puddlgin will nto occur.

imported_sleep

didn't mean to make such a brawl hehe

the stage 3 clutch master rocks... when your pushing 2 gear vtec and then shift to 3rd it's like BAMMMMMMMMMMMM there it is.

crazy just crazy...

but i'm going to get a wet kit i think... probly 50 shot
money isn't really a problem... i'm going to take my time on this.. first i'll get the a/f gauge and fuel pressure before i put it on and make sure i do this right... don't feel like needing a rebuild

1sloweg

plain and simple wet is better than dry.....

imported_BoOsTd

I totally agree 100%... Wet kits are a better system, I never said their not...they have more potential and work the best in the hands of an experianced tuner... that was key point in your statement...and not just the installer, but the owner who maintains it... but they come with a cost.. and for 1sloweg to say wet is "safer" is just plain ignorant and uneducated... I also dont see the need to spend the extra money on it when u can get the same results from the drysetup just as safely... But if moneys no concern than hey why not.

Zex makes a wet kit too and it injects right into the fuel rail, so puddling is not an issue... Its actually a good system, im thinking of aquiring the management unit, to do the conversion for the B20 in the spring

imported_BoOsTd

how is the peddle pressure... Heavy? is it comfortable in traffic as a daily driver?

imported_sleep

if your driving in toronto... and theirs a light every 2 secounds... forget it.

my left leg is bigger then my right leg hehehe

just kidding.. it's not that bad but in heave traffic you might go nuts. around my area it's great.