LX to SiR rear disk swap writeup!
24-Dec-2002, 09:30 AM
#1
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LX to SiR rear disk swap writeup!
So last night after work I swapped my rear drums to disks. I've had the whole conversion for a while, but haven't had a chance to put it in. So last night, this is what I found:
Have lots of patience and penetrating oil around. The bolts closer to the exhaust (pass side) are a lot tougher because of the heat. Do that side first! Be prepared to deal with the exhaust being in the way. Wear gloves, else you'll cut yourself up. You will at a minimum need a 10, 12, 14, 17 mm socket and wrench set. A phillips screwdriver, flat screwdriver, needlenose pliers, and a hammer will be needed too. Also, get flare nut wrenches to save yourself the trouble of stripped fittings.
Some notes...I found the SiR prop valve has 4 lines in total...LX has 6. I figured out that's because the SiR has ABS, so there is one in, one out, front, and back....the LX one has one in, one out, LF, RF, LR, RR lines. On the SiR, the front and back outputs from the prop valve go to the ABS modulator unit, where they are input lines....and then it's split from there into LF, RF, RR, and LR. So if you don't have this part, and you need your car, don't start this. I now have to find a Honda car with 4 wheel disks and no ABS. As we discussed, this appears to be the RS prop valve that may be needed. I will try and find one in the next few weeks/months, and let you know. If you have any info on this, post here or PM me.
Remove the center console and loosed the adj bolt oh the e-brake balance bar. Swing the cable through the slot and pull the end out of its hole. Pull the carpet up and push both cables with the grommets through the holes in the floor after you have take out 2 12 mm bolts in the floor bracket. Under the car, each cable is held in with two 12 mm bolts to the chassis. The pass side one is a little thougher, but you can do it w/o removing the exhaust. On the driv side, remove the plastic cover to gain access to one of the bolts...the plastic cover has three little plastic clips with the phillips center section you can unscrew. Now, there are 5 14mm bolts, and 2 17mm bolts holding in the entire trailing arm assembly. After you get these out the assembly will come out, so make sure you have removed the hydraulic line and the banjo bolt too! Swing the new trailing link in place, and do the reverse. The 14mm bolts are as such....one in the lower arm towards the middle of the car, one on the same arm where the shock mounts, two in the top laterla link that is bolted to the inside of the wheelwell, and the last on is under the sideskirt by the jacking point. The 2 17 mm are just in front of the last 14mm.
That covers that...pics later when I do the GS-R sway bar install, and the front will come later too. Finally, there will be a section on the hydraulics of the system too...master cylinder/booster/prop valve.
Have lots of patience and penetrating oil around. The bolts closer to the exhaust (pass side) are a lot tougher because of the heat. Do that side first! Be prepared to deal with the exhaust being in the way. Wear gloves, else you'll cut yourself up. You will at a minimum need a 10, 12, 14, 17 mm socket and wrench set. A phillips screwdriver, flat screwdriver, needlenose pliers, and a hammer will be needed too. Also, get flare nut wrenches to save yourself the trouble of stripped fittings.
Some notes...I found the SiR prop valve has 4 lines in total...LX has 6. I figured out that's because the SiR has ABS, so there is one in, one out, front, and back....the LX one has one in, one out, LF, RF, LR, RR lines. On the SiR, the front and back outputs from the prop valve go to the ABS modulator unit, where they are input lines....and then it's split from there into LF, RF, RR, and LR. So if you don't have this part, and you need your car, don't start this. I now have to find a Honda car with 4 wheel disks and no ABS. As we discussed, this appears to be the RS prop valve that may be needed. I will try and find one in the next few weeks/months, and let you know. If you have any info on this, post here or PM me.
Remove the center console and loosed the adj bolt oh the e-brake balance bar. Swing the cable through the slot and pull the end out of its hole. Pull the carpet up and push both cables with the grommets through the holes in the floor after you have take out 2 12 mm bolts in the floor bracket. Under the car, each cable is held in with two 12 mm bolts to the chassis. The pass side one is a little thougher, but you can do it w/o removing the exhaust. On the driv side, remove the plastic cover to gain access to one of the bolts...the plastic cover has three little plastic clips with the phillips center section you can unscrew. Now, there are 5 14mm bolts, and 2 17mm bolts holding in the entire trailing arm assembly. After you get these out the assembly will come out, so make sure you have removed the hydraulic line and the banjo bolt too! Swing the new trailing link in place, and do the reverse. The 14mm bolts are as such....one in the lower arm towards the middle of the car, one on the same arm where the shock mounts, two in the top laterla link that is bolted to the inside of the wheelwell, and the last on is under the sideskirt by the jacking point. The 2 17 mm are just in front of the last 14mm.
That covers that...pics later when I do the GS-R sway bar install, and the front will come later too. Finally, there will be a section on the hydraulics of the system too...master cylinder/booster/prop valve.
24-Dec-2002, 10:17 AM
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dented...I picked up the parts one day months ago when I was in toronto, off the classifieds either here or CSi I forget. $600 gets you front and back, plus new rotors and pads all around, at about $600 in new parts, so $1200 total.
24-Dec-2002, 10:40 AM
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If you can't find a Teg LS/RS p/v, you can get a CTR one. Expect to pay about $120 for a brand new one. A&J in Vancouver stocks them. Otherwise, you can find a used p/v from a U.S.-spec 99-00 Si (DOHC).
24-Dec-2002, 10:54 AM
#6
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Originally posted by SW20 MR2
If you can't find a Teg LS/RS p/v, you can get a CTR one. Expect to pay about $120 for a brand new one. A&J in Vancouver stocks them. Otherwise, you can find a used p/v from a U.S.-spec 99-00 Si (DOHC).
If you can't find a Teg LS/RS p/v, you can get a CTR one. Expect to pay about $120 for a brand new one. A&J in Vancouver stocks them. Otherwise, you can find a used p/v from a U.S.-spec 99-00 Si (DOHC).
Are you saying the US spec 99-00 USDM Si had no ABS?? If that's the case, I can do that!
24-Dec-2002, 11:33 AM
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Yes, US Spec Si's didn't have ABS (along with "fan type" washer nozzles, bigger washer reservoir and heated ouside mirrors). Us Canadian's are lucky. I got 4 wheel discs on all my cars. No need for conversion for me. I just need better pads and rotors for my SiR....
Mark
Mark
24-Dec-2002, 11:53 AM
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Dented, I'm doing all SiR...brakes and suspension bits all around (but with H&R coilovers and GS-R rear sway), hence the cost. Yes, just rears can be had for less.
My SiR, actually, no ABS is what I want...ABS is junk for performance-oriented driving, so...I'd consider the USDM luckier in this case. My Civic is a summer only car w/ sticky rubber...I'm not very concerned with locking up. Thanks a lot for the info though, at least now I know what I'm looking for.
My SiR, actually, no ABS is what I want...ABS is junk for performance-oriented driving, so...I'd consider the USDM luckier in this case. My Civic is a summer only car w/ sticky rubber...I'm not very concerned with locking up. Thanks a lot for the info though, at least now I know what I'm looking for.
24-Dec-2002, 12:01 PM
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Originally posted by dented dx
I just want to do the rear, i have heard that the parts wass around 200-300 for the teg rear disk and arms
I just want to do the rear, i have heard that the parts wass around 200-300 for the teg rear disk and arms
I would change them all at once..
DA6 Xsi brakes would do you good Dave..
I'm going 4 corner GSR swap this spring as well..
24-Dec-2002, 01:13 PM
#13
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Originally posted by SW20 MR2
I had a tough time looking for the U.S. Si p/v and couldn't find one.
I had a tough time looking for the U.S. Si p/v and couldn't find one.
But, pssst...the 92-93 integra prop valve is $150 brand new at the dealer and will work...dunno if it bolts up though. And the 92-93 Civic Si prop valve works too!
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