91si

i am currently building a 89 si and i am considering my engine options, i have a gsr in my 91 but i was wondering if anyone has experience with a ls turbo setup. what kinda power can be expected on 8-9 psi.

imported_1sicsol

You can make almost 300WHP without touching internals with a GOOD fuel set up. (ie FULL standalone) Now you have to remember that is really pushing it so ...

8-9 psi you could expect up to 250 whp with the proper tuning and parts would be more reliable.

-Mike.

Cynikal.Mindset

300whp on stock internals? not likely!

Sassafrass

I agree, its prolly been done, but for the most part I know myself I wouldnt want to run that setup, might be hella fast the few times it actually runs.



But I'm currently building an LS/Turbo right now, running a T3 on stock internals, this season I dont plan to put down huge numbers, I'm just hoping to get in and around 200whp, I'd be happy.

Go to honda-tech.com look for a thread for a user called "cheese frog", he's running a fully built LS with a T3 setup at which he can pull on a viper, which wasnt stock

Chigga1

LS/TURBO over 200WHP easily.
with stock internals... my buddy pulled 212WHP or somehting like that with a DRAG III kit.

low boost too.... 6-7 psi

Nova_Dust

Why not just turbo your GSR?

imported_b16turbohatch

with a good set up and good fuel management and and good tuning you should be looking at 230-250 hp which can be very reliable.

imported_Cablerat

POP goes the weeezel..

You'll be burning oil after a few runs..

imported_td-civ

well i did it and the guy is running 8psi on a ls and he puts out 245 at the wheels in a 90 civic hb he got walbro 255 in tank a vafc and dsm injecters and a fmu more fuel then he needs but he can drive his car all day with no probs

markpa

No more guessing....heres some stats.


http://www.importreview.com/d_turbo.html

Jugglez

importbuilders has been around forever

the numbers are still impressive though

imported_gatherer

impressive .. but look at the power from 1000 to 5000 rpm.... not even in the pull they did.... probably very bad low end power...

dingus88

cheese frog was running a t4 60-1 I beleive,,if was huge for highway runs..definatly not a mild setup if you have saw it you know he spent major $$$ on tuning and parts

dude you have a gsr in yoru 4th gen..you shoudl be pulling high 13 sec passes already...just buy a NOs kit and spray a 50 shot and run a mid 13 sec pass which is damn fast

turbo yoru gsr you will get bigger power out of it..and you can run a nice huge t3/t4 63 trim so you can possibly launch it and have some lag so you wont' roast the tires..gsr can spool a bigger turbo...

ls turbo is ok but jsut keep your gsr setup it will be better in the end

oh ya and there is no!!! way you could ever get close to 300 whp on a stock ls bottom end...maybe a 4g63 but not a open deck spindly rod cast piston ls block...200-220 is more what you might get with a small t3/t4 and with afc and injectors

91si

my gsr is in my 91 si this is for another project, and yes i am currently working on a 4 fogger setup to get me in the 12's

Chigga1

the GSR would rev to quick.....

LS tranny is what u need.... you need longer gears....
but any will do fine....

proper tuning is the KEY

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

oh gawd... let's not let this phrase get whored out. like mad JDM y0! It means something to some of us, just saying "mad proper tune y0" is for mooks.

why don't you share your endless wisdom with us Chigga1, tell us how you'd go about tuning? ****, even tell me what value stoichiometric is supposed to be and I'll give you a Nobel prize. Explain EGTs to me. How does a wideband lambda differ from a standard one.

imported_BoOsTd

does the ideal airfuel ratio for max power/ and or best economy , change from one setup to the next, like displacement ect..? Or is 12.whatever:1 a standard value for complete combustion in every combustion process... ??

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

yes it does in practice!!! in theory, the ideal air/fuel ratio by mass is 14.7:1 <--- but with no specifications on the gasoline mixture, it's hard to say. If you have a blend of gasoline with methanol or ethanol, the ratio would change.

Engines generally make the best power when they are slightly lean, but that means possible knock, which is why stock tuning always has a rich preset map. For those with working A/F meters, you'll know that when you floor it, it immediately goes to a slightly rich condition. Not the best power, but it's safe. Usually engines make best power at peak EGT.

Yes, the air/fuel mixture for optimal power differs from engine to engine... this is why you NEED a dyno with a wideband in order to tune.

imported_BoOsTd

Ok I was thinking, that while your on the dyno, you would be looking for a standard number "air fuel ratio" of complete combustion with your fuel management (one that has been pre calculated), in turn produceing the biggest gains.

When in fact your on the dyno looking for the correct (optimal) airfuel ratio for your individual setup. So basically your gonna be on the dyno trying out different air fuel ratios, untill you produce your biggest numbers, and "not" looking for a pre determined value like 14.7:1?

Usefull information Seems like somone here actually knows what "proper tuning" really is

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

no, you're not looking for 14.7 per se. you are really looking for peak EGTs w/o blowing your motor. However it's crucial to know what side of 14.7 your are on, know what I mean? Cuz EGTs and horsepower alone don't tell you where you're at... what you do is start rich and then lean it out bit by bit. When you go too far HP will drop, so back off a couple of steps with the fueling, and start fooling with the ignition timing then. Once that's done, you can try messing with cam timing if you got it. Then fine-tune the fuel and away you go!