Low idle

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25-Sep-2003, 12:13 AM

#21

mattharper

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ive also heard that if you change/beef up your grounds it solves this problem...
heres a link on club si
http://forums.clubsi.com/showflat.ph...b=5&o=&fpart=1
...hope it helps you....i think im gonna try this myself,as i have a bunch of extra wire/connectors lyin around

25-Sep-2003, 10:14 PM

#22

EG6_SiRII

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nope, its not helping, already got ground wires, just a headup if you have this problem, this weekend I will definitely try to check on the sensor.

26-Sep-2003, 02:03 PM

#23

kwikb16a2

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anyone know how to test the o2 sensor and what the resistance is suppose to be like?

26-Sep-2003, 03:40 PM

#24

bbarbulo

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can't test it... you try testing it you'll fry it with a regular volt-meter but that's just what I hear

25-Oct-2003, 08:17 AM

#25

imported_Slvr-Bullet

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Bringing back an old thread

Did anyone that had this problem get it solved??

25-Oct-2003, 11:43 PM

#26

imported_Duge

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jus try adjusting the base idle, the flat screw on the top of the throttle body

26-Oct-2003, 11:22 AM

#27

kwikb16a2

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this always happened to me when im at lower than a quater tank of gas, dunno if that has anything to do with it

27-Oct-2003, 02:51 AM

#28

imported_Slvr-Bullet

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Quote:

Originally posted by kwikb16a2
this always happened to me when im at lower than a quater tank of gas, dunno if that has anything to do with it

Did you check your IAC valve?
Did you fix the problem?

27-Oct-2003, 11:51 AM

#29

chanyeehon

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get a oil change

27-Oct-2003, 03:53 PM

#30

imported_Cablerat

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Quote:

Originally posted by bbarbulo
The throttelbody is tuned on a flow bench at the factory, so unless you have a flowbench in your bedroom, don't even attempt it.

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omg Bruno, your ****'s classic man.. wow..
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27-Oct-2003, 04:15 PM

#31

bbarbulo

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cablerat, I'm serious... the the way fuel injection works at idle is that the ECU is given a fixed KNOWN value of bypass air that the throttle body lets in, and that is how the ECU knows how far to open the IAC valve in order to maintain that flow for a given RPM. If you **** with the screw, then the ECU no longer has the correct bypass value, so when you actually fix your problem, then your idle will be out of whack again. The only reason that the screw is even there is for t-body replacement. It's not meant as a diagnosic tool. If you guys take the time to read repair manuals, there is a lot you can learn about fuel injection. The old trick of fixing the idle by turning the screw on a carb is no longer valid, since fuel injection is NOT as mechanical a process as it is electrical.

The mention of 1/4 tank of gas or lower, it would perhaps make suspect of the fuel sender unit (including fuel pump), fuel filter, or if you have a FPR... what pressure are you running at ACC?