at a loss here...no start
#41
Originally posted by mrchaos
well we know we have no spray, remember i pulled the rail already
well we know we have no spray, remember i pulled the rail already
#42
Originally posted by bbarbulo
like I said, it's close to the 1/2 circle thingy that the throttle cable is on... one of the arms on it will hit a switch when it's WOT!
like I said, it's close to the 1/2 circle thingy that the throttle cable is on... one of the arms on it will hit a switch when it's WOT!
#44
it's the TAS Throttle angle sensor on the diagram you posted... it's a standard potentiometer.... 3 wires out green/white yellow/white should have the total resistance measured across them... then from green white to red/blue should be 1 resistance and from red/blue to yellow/white should be a another resistance ./.. add the last 2 resistance measurements together you should get the same resistance as measurement one.
do this for various throttle angles
do this for various throttle angles
#45
do you have the FSM, Haynes or Chilton? There is a section that describes what the ECU looks for under starting conditions. It's either in the fuel injection section at the beginning or in the driveability and emissions section at the beginning. It'll describe what the ECU looks for in order to start. Cuz it may be looking for a crank signal from the crank position sensor in the distributor too.... read up on it for now. I'm going to the gym... be back tomorrow
#47
Originally posted by gatherer
it's the TAS Throttle angle sensor on the diagram you posted... it's a standard potentiometer.... 3 wires out green/white yellow/white should have the total resistance measured across them... then from green white to red/blue should be 1 resistance and from red/blue to yellow/white should be a another resistance ./.. add the last 2 resistance measurements together you should get the same resistance as measurement one.
do this for various throttle angles
it's the TAS Throttle angle sensor on the diagram you posted... it's a standard potentiometer.... 3 wires out green/white yellow/white should have the total resistance measured across them... then from green white to red/blue should be 1 resistance and from red/blue to yellow/white should be a another resistance ./.. add the last 2 resistance measurements together you should get the same resistance as measurement one.
do this for various throttle angles
#49
Originally posted by bbarbulo
so you found the problem
as for the TPS, you can do it unplugged and measure the resistance.
so you found the problem
as for the TPS, you can do it unplugged and measure the resistance.
#50
you should still get spark with a shot CAS...
however since the ECU doesn't now where the engine is at it doesn't know which valve is open to spray fuel into with might prevent the fuel from being sprayed at all.....
however since the ECU doesn't now where the engine is at it doesn't know which valve is open to spray fuel into with might prevent the fuel from being sprayed at all.....
#51
not exactly sure (since that picture you posted doesn't have a high enough resolution but it looks like the CAS is another inductor sensor (which makes sense for a magnetic pickup) anyways again check the inductance not the resistance.
#53
I'd think so since the ECU needs to know when the intake valve is open so that it shoots the fuel at the right time ...
if you did the test as outlined in the haynes then thats cool.... best way to do it
if you did the test as outlined in the haynes then thats cool.... best way to do it
#56
Originally posted by bbarbulo
The CPS tells the ECU that the engine is turning over and trying to start. Or similar... I'm not 100% on how it works on your car. For example, on my Saturn, the CPS tells the ECU to start the ignition coil firing (cuz I have a distributorless ignition). So double check what it is for your car specifically.
The CPS tells the ECU that the engine is turning over and trying to start. Or similar... I'm not 100% on how it works on your car. For example, on my Saturn, the CPS tells the ECU to start the ignition coil firing (cuz I have a distributorless ignition). So double check what it is for your car specifically.
#57
Originally posted by gatherer
your welcome ....
(this is a very very good example of how trouble shooting should be done on this board.)
your welcome ....
(this is a very very good example of how trouble shooting should be done on this board.)
most times, ppl just say my car wont start whats wrong?? well there could be 11ty million things wrong in that case
#58
Originally posted by mrchaos
it helps that i had the right information and your guys know your ****
most times, ppl just say my car wont start whats wrong?? well there could be 11ty million things wrong in that case
it helps that i had the right information and your guys know your ****
most times, ppl just say my car wont start whats wrong?? well there could be 11ty million things wrong in that case
anyways I hope this sorts it all out for you now
#59
Originally posted by mrchaos
it helps that i had the right information and your guys know your ****
most times, ppl just say my car wont start whats wrong?? well there could be 11ty million things wrong in that case
it helps that i had the right information and your guys know your ****
most times, ppl just say my car wont start whats wrong?? well there could be 11ty million things wrong in that case
everything is hard to do when you are unwilling to bust out the tools and DO IT DO IT
NICE WORK!!
#60
bb you will enjoy this
did a compression test....
Cylinder #1 - 110
Cylinder #2 - 90
Cylinder #3 - 90
Cylinder #4 - 50
NOW THATS A PROBLEM!!
BHG or valve not sealing...either way red90dx and I are doing a head swap next week.
Cylinder #1 - 110
Cylinder #2 - 90
Cylinder #3 - 90
Cylinder #4 - 50
NOW THATS A PROBLEM!!
BHG or valve not sealing...either way red90dx and I are doing a head swap next week.