91blacknight

Well I've been having a lot of fun with my B16 for a little while now, but I'm looking to spend a little money on it to get some more performance I had the car on the dyno not too long ago and it did 154 at the wheels.
My setup is as follows:

B16A JDM
Rebuilt head and added double valve springs
Civic Type R cams (stock cam gears)
chipped
4-2-1 one piece header
short ram intake with k&N filter
lightenend flywheel
fuel pressure regulator

I would like to see some satisfactory gains given a moderate budget. I'm adding some adjustable cam gears this week. I'm not looking to change any other internals at this time. Is it worth going with a new intake manifold, throttle body, maybe an ignition? I would appreciate any suggestions.

dingus88

at this point tuning is the game...get uberdata etc or a vafc to tune the cams gears and a/f curve to get a few more whp outta your setup....plus maybe a jdm 4-1 with 2.5 colector and 2.5 inch exhasut to go with it. I think blox intakes are cheaper than skunks...but then you will need to tune it to get the most...at this stage I'd say invest in a tuning tool like hondata/uberdata/vafc

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

well seeing as your ecu is already chipped, just get it tuned on a dyno with a wideband o2 and burn a custom chip with uberdata/crome like dingus said.
I would suggest the AEBS intake manifold with a hondata heatshield or other immitation intake manifold gasket (fakedata is they've been referred to before), larger t/b 65mm, is fine, or just get yours bored to 64mm but make sure they (whoever bores it for you) uses a new larger throttle plate. I suggest the AEBS IM simply b/c of its price and b/c its what i am using along with a 64mm bored t/b and fakedata intake manifold gasket and am very impressed with its overall performance.
I also recommend a 4-2-1 header w/2.5" collector. I used to have a 4-1 on my built b16 and i much prefer the 4-2-1 i am using now. But wether you choose 4-1 or 4-2-1 make sure to get one with a 2.5" collector. Then get a 2.5" exhaust and high flow cat (to keep it legal).
Tuning is very important as dingus stated, but if you plan on upgrading the intake manifold, t/b, header, exhaust, etc then wait on the tuning until you make all of your purchases. Tuning is expensive and it would be a waste to have to tune several times.
So yeah, i've basically just reinforced what dingus has said.

Younes Si

listen to him ^^

integrada90

get a b20 block n start from there!

or a fab or buy a turbo kit

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

why does everybody hate on b16's?

All it takes to make a b16 quick is some knowledge and the right setup.

But if you plan on boostin' your b16 PM me i have some parts to build your bottom end that i will sell for cheap, i mean real cheap.

Also, spending money on an aftermarket ignition system is a waste, honda ignitions hold their own pretty good.

imported_JookSingKid

IMO lots of things left to do before tuning.

I would lose the short ram and go to a CAI
What kind of exhaust set up do you have? stock? aftermarket?
what kind of Cat? Move to less restrictive cat will help such as an ITR.
How about a lightenened fly wheel?
Performance clutch?
If you budget allows, get a LSD.

Don't get lost in the hp numbers, focus on the driving dymics of your car.

91blacknight

The cat is a stock replacement. The exhaust is 2 1/4 inch with a Dynomax muffler ( probably not a popular muffler with imports but I love the sound). I've been staying away from CAI only because I drive it year round; filter gets too dirty. I do have a lightened flywheel. Clutch is pretty much stock replacement also. As far as the driving dynamics, the suspension is totally complete; sway bars, neuspeed lowering springs, illuminas. Rear brake conversion was done and rotors in the front upgraded.
Thanks for all the suggestions so far!

Dr.K

Pulley Kit. Not too much money and worth a Few HP. LSD will definetly help since your already makign decent power. And There's alway's Nitrous. No cheaper way to get 50hp.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

Since you said that you are on a budget i'd say
mill the head .030" for a bump in compression about a full point ($80)
Take your throttle body to an automotive machine shop and have them bore it to 64mm (or 62mm if its a 1st gen b16a) ($200)
AEBS typhoon intake manifold ($250)
Fakedata intake manifold gasket ($60)
High flow cat ($100)
All this on a buget of around $700
The bump in compression will really get the most out of the CTR cams you have and the larger t/b and IM will really help it breath up top, since you are running dual valve springs (ITR i would assume) you could take the revs up as high as the cams make power. The fakedata intake manifold gasket really works, i am currently using one and am impressed with how cool the IM is even after some hard pulls.
If you mill the head .030" your CR would be around 11:1. Or there is always the option of a thinner headgasket. A one-layer headgasket would yeild a 10.6:1 CR and would be cheaper than milling the head b/c if you mill you would need to replace the headgasket anyways so add another $80 to the price of milling. Oh and don't forget new head bolts (or head studs if the budget allows)

8.5K

Knowledge is Power.......and ZMAN has the strength of a lion.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

is that all the input you (the professional here) have b16 civic?
I'll be sure to bring my car to you....lol

imported_loudsubz

he wants to make power sam not loose, it, so keep the SRI

8.5K

so does my "n/a b20vtec that runs 15.0/1 a/f ratio in vtec for 1800rpm" 225whp car is scary. anyway, ZMAN has learned quite a bit in a short period of time. don't hate.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

lol....thats classic. And i thank you for the compliment.

And i agree with loudsubz....keep the SRI. I used to have a CAI then when i went to the dyno and saw for myself that a SRI makes more power than a CAI i decided to leave the second half of the intake pipe (the cold air part) off and just run a SRI.

8.5K your gunna have to take me for a ride on your B20vtec EF.

RRRROOOAAAARRRR!!!!
hahahaha

Lil' EG

For my current setup in my EL,
JDM b16a2
DC headers 4-2-1
ITR mid-pipe 2 1/4
Hayame axle back 2 1/4
SRI

my mechanic suggested me not to get a high flow cat, cause he said i dun have enough HP n i will loose power from the start....is tis true?
n i am in the same situation as 91blacknight, got the swap done, now its beggin for more....