imported_magicguy

what should i do with 5K?
should i swap a B18c5 and sell my b16a2, supercharge or turbo, i do perfer NA, but its hella expensive...pay more but little gain = NA
so...any suggestion ppl?
if i'm going for NA. what should i do....?
currently i have a B16a2

imported_Thrill_House

What do you plan to do with the car, that is the better question? For the street I think a civic with any more then 200whp is a little rediculous if not undriveable at points. Personally I would by a used LS motor and swap on your B16 head and then do either ITB's or Turbo. Hell you could even just run your B16 on a light amount of boost, it might be that extra kick your looking for.

imported_Thrill_House

Oh and one more thing I forgot to mention, should you do anything that requires different fuel and ignition maps prepare to pay out the *** for the ECU and tuning, I know for a fact that it aint cheap for an OBD-2 car.

imported_kIeRaN

go turbo on your b16a2!

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

IMO you should build a lsvtec or b20vtec. Hella torque from a b20vtec. For $5K you could build one mean lsv/crvtec.
Boost = high maintainance.
For $5k you could build your b16 to make more power than an ITR (i did for about $3K) so i think swapping an ITR would be a waste.

imported_SaYjAiBaO

how reliable are those frankenstein motors though? i'm tempted to go this route but to put out nice numbers decently, how much $$ is required? qnyways, i say you swap out that torqueless motor for at least a 1.8. as zeeman said, turbo will cost you in the long run but if you stay NA, go with atleast a 1.8 because your car isn't all that light. just grab a B18C1 and build it, you can make it better than the R motor.

imported_SilverSleeper

I'm a little wary on the Frankenstein motors especially the B20/Vtec because I've heard they have thin cylinder walls. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

my b16 makes as much torque and more hp than an ITR with bolt ons....been to the dyno to prove it. So theres no need to swap that b16 out for a measly .2 of a litre more displacement and 5whp.
Lsvtec's and crvtec's are only as reliable as you build them. Don't expect a bone stock head/block combo to last long if you beat on it all day and rev it to 8000rpms. For $5k you could completely rebuild/build the bottom end. I'd get the rotating assembly balanced, align hone the mains, bore .25 over, hone, pick and nice aftermarket piston with about 11.5-12.5:1 CR, new bearings, ARP rod bolts (this is a must if you want to rev to more than 7000rpms), ARP head and main studs, vtec oil and water pumps (this is also a must in my opinion), a vtec oil feed line, a complete gasket set, and even pay for assembly. And maybe still have a little left over for dyno tuning.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

b20's have thin cylinder walls but that really only matters if you boost or go really high compression. If that scares you build a lsvtec. The nice thing about lsvtec is that you can use other stock b-series pistons.

imported_SaYjAiBaO

you managed to make as much torque on a 1.6 compared to the R motor? how did you do that and HOW MUCH did it cost you to do that. so what's a better option, LSVTEC or CRVTEC?

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

i am currently building a b20 bottom end to put my b16 head onto.
I built my head for about $3000 but could've easily spent over $5000. The key to a budget build is patience. Wait until you find the sweet deals on these boards, i grabbed some brand new cams, valve springs and ti retainers off someone for like $900 that he paid over $1400 for but never used them and wanted to get rid of them.