J Roll

Can someone explain to me what modifications need to be done in order to swap in the K20A. I have a 96 EK coupe and want to know whether its worth doing this swap. I know they're costly, but assuming that you get a good deal/have the money to get it, is it worth it??? I've heard that once you make the changes, its a b***h to go back to a B or D. Any thoughts?

bbarbulo

iTrader: (2)

k20a.org is your friend

imported_Nicotine

for what you'd spend on a k series, the mods, the swap, the labour, the extra parts...you could do a b series plus turbo and have a reliable setup for around the same cost, and it would crush a k series, and is a whole lot more fun (imo)

imported_xplizitremix

K-series is the future though, swap it now, be ready for later
and you'll be putting down mid 13's to low 13's and if you put some slicks on and strip your interior touch 12's

For a N/A setup thats very respectable.

This of course you spend the money on the instllation , parts and most importantly ECU.


I believe BREAK THE NEEDLE instals them for $5000 + cost of ECU that includes the motor. Thats what i remember what they were quoting last time but you'd have a better chance calling them finding out.


Also regarding the K20-R, its not worth swapping that motor in, it sjust blingness if you get that motor, you could just buy a K20A2 Type-S and swap K20-R internals and you'd get just as well if not better results

Kassim has a k20-R and has suggested not to get one because of the octane we use in North America vs Japan. It doesn't get utilized to it's fullest potential etc. I think theres a thread if you do a search.

Mugen Power

you can run mid-low 13's with a B. K is the future, but, we're no there yet. my boy had a bone stock usdm C1 in a 92' Si hatch and ran 14.0@100 stripped. don't think b's are uncapable. lastly, its too often that a C1 or C5 is compared to a K20. that extra .2 displacement is the real power difference (besides the benefit of i-vtec). i might eventually go K, but, there is still a bit of untapped potential in the B...most B's i see are mild, yet most K's i see are radical...big cams, im, 12.5+ c.r. ultra lightweight rods, 2.4L displacement, Kpro...are you kidding me? of course they will make more power, but the question is....is it worth it? i don't think so....not yet

VTEC_Thunder

I'd get a k24 from a tsx and swap on the head from a k20 in a new civic si or RSX Type-S and you've got yourself a crazy 220-240whp NA monster with all the torque you could ever want!!!

But of course it will cost you....big time. Worth it? To me....yes!.

imported_Nicotine

nah man, eff that.
for 5g's approx, you can get a b16 or a b18, get some forged rods/pistons, feed it a turbo, and laugh at like 14lbs of boost daily. i'll be hitting 18lbs this year. cant wait...

nothing sounds better then boost.

imported_Team Rukus

to answer your question.
mounts (driver side mount hole on the frame has to get drilled out *one of them* so the new longer bolt can go in)

that will basically get the motor and tranny in sitting with no problems.

to make it fit however you will need to relocate the radiator. there are multiple ways 1 is to use back the stock rad and fan and just relocate the lower tab to the driver side or you can use a slim rad and FAL pushers however this requires custom work and trimming and cutting etc...

you will need fuel rail, fuel lines, fuel pressure regulator (these things are not manadatory as you modify the stock ones to fit and adapt)

you need conversion harness (again you dont need it as you can use the stock rsx harness and modify it)

you need axels (same thing you dont need it you can modify the axels in your car with the rsx axels)

you need EMS (again dont need it as you can modify it to make it start and run with stock ecu)

thats the basics of it then there are things like power steering, a/c, thermo unit, coolant switch, shifte box adapter plate etc...

going from k back to stock is easy except for the 1 drilled out hole you will need to reweld back aswell as the relocation for the radiator and the cutting of the floor for the shifter box.

imported_Team Rukus

ENGINE/TRANNY (All gaskets/seals are considered "known to be needed" items)
----------------
K-series engine(K24/K20)
K-series tranny(Type-R/RSX-S/RSX Base)
K-series engine harness(RSX-S 02-04)
K-series charging harness(RSX-S 02-04)
K-series Alternator(For Engine of Choice)
K-series Starter(For Engine of Choice)
K-series ECU(RSX PRB 02-04) Plus Hondata K-Pro(Or JDM K-series ECU)
Header(R-crew/DC/SSR)
Clutch/Flywheel(RSX-S)
RSX Type-S Oxygen Sensor(Primary)
RSX Type-S Knock Sensor(Only if not using RSX-S engine, Or repin stock Knock sensor)
RSX Type-S Clutch Slave Cylinder
RSX Type-S Halfshaft
RSX BASE Axles(For EG only, Swap inner joints)
RSX Type-S Throttle Body(Or Accord throttle body, depending on engine/intake)
RSX-S Intake Manifold(Or RBC/TSX/Accord)
Karcepts Throttle Body Adapter(only if using RBC)
Engine Mounts(Hybrid/Avid/Hasport)
Harness Conversion(Hybrid/Hasport)
Clutch Line(Hybrid Racing)

RADIATOR/COOLING (This is for using stock radiator)
-----------
Hasport Billet Hose Adapter(For Stock B/D series Fan switch/coolant temp sensor)
Perma-Cool PRM-19120 11"x10" Fan
TOP Rad Hose - RSX Type-S Top Hose(for EK/EG)
BOTTOM Rad Hose - 99-00 Civic Si Top Hose(for EK/EG)

SHIFTER PARTS
-----------
Karcepts Shifter mounting kit
RSX Type-S Shifter Box
RSX-S 02-04 Shifter Cables
Shift Parts to Connect Cables (OEM, easy)

EXHAUST PARTS (Must be custom welded, Can substitute for 2.5")
-----------
Kteller 3" Stainless Piping
3" in/out Muffler
Catalytic Converter if you choose to use one.

FUEL SYSTEM PARTS (Using stock fuel rail, minimum costs)
------------
(www.summitracing.com)
EAR-991945ERL - Converts OEM fuel filter to -6 AN fitting
EAR-165056ERL - Converts OEM fuel rail to -6 AN fitting
RUS-610020 x 4 - Straight -6 AN Hose couplers
SUM-220166N x 3 - Straight cut -6 AN to -6 An hose, Ports on FPR.
RUS-610160 - 90 Degree -6 AN Coupler from fuel filter to FPR.
RUS-632070 - 10 feet -6 AN Hose
AEI-13109 - Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator.
Walbro 190/255lph Fuel Pump(It's cheap, and worth it - www.hybrid-performance.com)

IF REMOVING POWER STEERING
-------------
EP3 Idler pulley/bracket
Manual Steering rack, Or Loop P/S rack
K24 = 52" Serpentine Belt(works perfectly on mine)
K20 = 50.5" Serpentine Belt

IF KEEPING POWER STEERING (With a current P/S rack)
-------------
K20 PS Pump
Jackson Racing Pulley - P/N: 052-154 (This will clear an EG hood with K20 swap, no hole...only cutting.)
52" Serpentine Belt(only for K20 - K24 = Unknown?)
02-04 RSX High pressure hose
3/8" I.D. hose
Oil cooler from Perma-Cool Industries P/N:1007 (for P/S fluid return line)

Fluid NEEDS:
-------
POWER STEERING FLUID - 2 Bottles
DOT3 Brake fluid - 2 Bottles
Coolant 50/50 Mix - 2 Bottles(3 to be safe/cover leaking or spillage)
MTF - 3 Bottles
OIL - 5 Quarts

RANDOM HOSES (Not totaly acurate for ALL swap configurations, keep in mind O.D. and I.D. measurements)
-------
10' 3/16" I.D. Hose (possibly not all swaps)
10' 1/4" I.D. Hose
10' 3/8" I.D. Hose
5' 3/4" O.D. Hose
5' 1" O.D. Hose (possibly not all swaps)

imported_360_vortex

^^^ stickie material

J Roll

Wow lotta work eh. I guess if you got tha cheese it'll be worth it. Great info guys.

Mugen Power

for what? there are like 2 people on here with K's. sticky material? its good info, but, only a handful of peeps care.

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

This bone stock boosted b18b i dyno tuned today was laughing at 13-14psi.
K's are great, if you've got deep pockets. They don't even offer the whole "i wanna be different" factor anymore, b/c lots and lots of people have them (just not on this site). I-VTEC is pretty sweet and that puts the K that far ahead of the B's IMO, imagine if you could control the cam angle in crome/hondata on the B's....the power people would be making, more specifically the torque and how broad of a powerband it would have.
I agree with m_power (as always) about the B's not being done yet and still having hidden power locked away. Not to mention for the price of a K swap you could easily swap in a b-series and boost it and make 250+whp and 240+ft/lbs at moderate boost levels on a stock engine.

imported_Nicotine

holy crap, zeeman is alive!!!!!

brianmcgaugh

[QUOTE]Originally posted by zeeman
[B]

This bone stock boosted b18b i dyno tuned today was laughing at 13-14psi.
set up, #'s???

zeeman

iTrader: (1)

It was a t3/t4 (60 trim i believe) with a cast drag manifold, 2.5" exhaust, FMIC, 440s, very basic setup that makes awesome torque and gained a whole bunch over the 91 octane street tune he was running (75ft/lbs and about 40whp).
There will be some dyno sheets and more details about his setup once he gets some things figured out.
Overall, i was pretty impressed with the setup and power it made especially considering it was a $1500 turbo kit.

Mugen Power

yeah, i only wish.