intake, cams and pulleys - worth it?
16-Feb-2003, 04:35 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Mississauga
Posts: 165
intake, cams and pulleys - worth it?
im buying a JDM GSR motor...it will be OBD1, im thinking of the AEM V2 intake, AEM tru power pulleys and cam gears....do you think i'll notice a difference?
16-Feb-2003, 06:45 PM
#5
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 115
OK...where should i start?
Alright first u have to understand that u have to let ur engine breathe better...so aem cai is a good choice. I/h/c/e should always be first on the list for performance. Amatures are always asking...how much hp will i gain with an intake, or how much more hp will an exhaust give. This is the wrong mindset. You have to think in terms of "systems". An exhaust system consists of a h/c/e setup or headers, hi flow cat, and exhaust. The most overlooked part on a exhaust system is a cat. A good investment is purchasing a hi flow carsound cat.
OK, now if u do have the basics, then you should see how much cash flow u have and purchase accordingly. Any type of non oem crank pulley or pulley set (except the powersteering pulley) is bad for ur engine. I say bad cuz a lightned crank pulley will throw ur engine balance off and for $300 i dont really think its a good investment. If ur running a sound system, then the lightned crank pulley will rob power from it, so u wont be able to have a system anymore (when i mean system, i mean something BIG, not stock speakers and deck, and judging by ur signiture, u have a BIG system running!). For $300 you can spend ur money elsewhere and gain something, instead of screwing something up.
Ok now are u thinking of going naturally aspirated or forced induction? By the looks of it, ur going n/a. The most important part of a n/a setup are the cams (not cam gears, cam shafts!). Now on the gsr motor, i suggest u save up and purchase a type r intake cam and some dual valve springs + retainers. Now this would add about 8-10 whp. If u buy the type r exhaust cam too, then ur looking at 10-12 extra whp. Now i would purchase cam gears at the same time as the cams cuz u can install them together. Cam gears alone add about 2-3 whp cuz they're lighter than stock, but more importantly, they open doors for u. What i mean is that they allow for TUNING!!!! TUNING TUNING TUNING!!!
Ok, now cam gears are what? $200-300 a pair, if u find them at a good price. But trust me they are well worth it. If u want some good cam gears, something to look for is how many bolts they have. THe more bolts, the less slippage, the more expensive (usually). But whatever, just go with some aem tru time cam gears if ur on a budget.
But remember, when u start adding more air, u must match the increase in flow on the fuel side as well. Fuel pressure regulator, chipped ecu, type r fuel pump, vtec/fuel controller...etc.etc.etc.
Are u gonna be buying an aftermarket flywheel or just getting ur stock one lightened? If u buy an aftermarket one then thats great, but i wouldn't lighten a stock flywheel, cuz it can shatter into pieces cuz its not as durable as an aftermarket one.
To be honest, i dont really think there's much difference in a brand name cai, header, or exhaust. How much more can u possilby gain from an AEM CAI or DC headers? You'll only be wasting ur money with that crap. I suggest a generic cai, and some ractive 4-1 headers (or 4-2-1 headers depending on where u want ur powerband to be) cuz all name brands do will put a hole in ur wallet. With the money left over from not spending on the brand name brand, you can put it towards a different part. Cut corners, but know where u should and shouldn't.
Alright first u have to understand that u have to let ur engine breathe better...so aem cai is a good choice. I/h/c/e should always be first on the list for performance. Amatures are always asking...how much hp will i gain with an intake, or how much more hp will an exhaust give. This is the wrong mindset. You have to think in terms of "systems". An exhaust system consists of a h/c/e setup or headers, hi flow cat, and exhaust. The most overlooked part on a exhaust system is a cat. A good investment is purchasing a hi flow carsound cat.
OK, now if u do have the basics, then you should see how much cash flow u have and purchase accordingly. Any type of non oem crank pulley or pulley set (except the powersteering pulley) is bad for ur engine. I say bad cuz a lightned crank pulley will throw ur engine balance off and for $300 i dont really think its a good investment. If ur running a sound system, then the lightned crank pulley will rob power from it, so u wont be able to have a system anymore (when i mean system, i mean something BIG, not stock speakers and deck, and judging by ur signiture, u have a BIG system running!). For $300 you can spend ur money elsewhere and gain something, instead of screwing something up.
Ok now are u thinking of going naturally aspirated or forced induction? By the looks of it, ur going n/a. The most important part of a n/a setup are the cams (not cam gears, cam shafts!). Now on the gsr motor, i suggest u save up and purchase a type r intake cam and some dual valve springs + retainers. Now this would add about 8-10 whp. If u buy the type r exhaust cam too, then ur looking at 10-12 extra whp. Now i would purchase cam gears at the same time as the cams cuz u can install them together. Cam gears alone add about 2-3 whp cuz they're lighter than stock, but more importantly, they open doors for u. What i mean is that they allow for TUNING!!!! TUNING TUNING TUNING!!!
Ok, now cam gears are what? $200-300 a pair, if u find them at a good price. But trust me they are well worth it. If u want some good cam gears, something to look for is how many bolts they have. THe more bolts, the less slippage, the more expensive (usually). But whatever, just go with some aem tru time cam gears if ur on a budget.
But remember, when u start adding more air, u must match the increase in flow on the fuel side as well. Fuel pressure regulator, chipped ecu, type r fuel pump, vtec/fuel controller...etc.etc.etc.
Are u gonna be buying an aftermarket flywheel or just getting ur stock one lightened? If u buy an aftermarket one then thats great, but i wouldn't lighten a stock flywheel, cuz it can shatter into pieces cuz its not as durable as an aftermarket one.
To be honest, i dont really think there's much difference in a brand name cai, header, or exhaust. How much more can u possilby gain from an AEM CAI or DC headers? You'll only be wasting ur money with that crap. I suggest a generic cai, and some ractive 4-1 headers (or 4-2-1 headers depending on where u want ur powerband to be) cuz all name brands do will put a hole in ur wallet. With the money left over from not spending on the brand name brand, you can put it towards a different part. Cut corners, but know where u should and shouldn't.
17-Feb-2003, 12:06 AM
#7
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Mississauga
Posts: 165
thanks for the info...im actually going turbo next summer! i am pretty confused with all this crap, lol...i dont plan on doing headers...they add what, 2hp? but i guess the full exhaust system adds more eh? i am gonna buy a cat for sure...but headers prolly not since in a turbo set up the aftermarket DC headers or whatever are useless..and i dont plan in loosing my system, if i go to the strip or something, yea i'll take it out..but not permenantly.
i was thinking of boring out the t/b too, since my friend is a machinist he offered to do this for me....would i need bigger injectors or something?
i was thinking of boring out the t/b too, since my friend is a machinist he offered to do this for me....would i need bigger injectors or something?
17-Feb-2003, 01:24 AM
#8
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 115
bigger injectors are needed for F/I setups such as turbos or nitrous. Mild fuel upgrades would be appropriate in ur specific case. This includes a type r fuel pump, ecu chipped, and vafc or just an air fuel controller. High volume fuel lines are pointless on n/a cars.
Many ppl are misinformed about two things: Fuel pressure regulators, and ecu chipping.
A FPR is a TUNING device. Many ppl think that its a plain old part they bolt on and think they have achieved more hp. In fact, a fpr is used to gain the most optimal air/fuel ratio. Without dyno tuning and the fpr gauge its pointless. Your basically guessing ur air/fuel ratio which may result in a lean or rich a/f ratio.
The second thing ppl usually are confused about is ecu chipping. Now when ppl say they have a ecu chipped with the skunk2 or mugen, etc etc etc...programs they also tend to believe they upgraded the fuel system which results in more hp. They think that some "pshycic (spelling) company" has the ability to tell what type of aftermarket bolt ons u have and chip an ecu accordingly. What you should do is also get ur ecu chipped with a dyno, but with ur own specific program.
What i'm trying to say is that a part here or there may increase air or fuel flow, but getting the right a/f ratio will benefit u the most. And this can all be done with tuning on a dyno.
Cam gears, FPR, and ECU chipping should all be done to ur engines own specific needs and is substantial to any type of engine. I think ksr said that tuning is what got him in the 11's. For about $150-$500, you will see a whopping 10-20 + whp. Can any bolt on give u that constant power for that price?
Bored out TB is always good, and if ur friend can do it at a good price, then go for it.
OK, now if u plan on going turbo, then i wouldn't waste ur money on a exhaust, headers (like u mentioned) don't even waste it on a high flow cat cuz u will probably be upgrading to a 3" exhaust. U don't want any bottle necks in ur exhaust setup, this will only decrease flow. So by buying a high flow cat which is 2.25" in diameter now won't suite ur needs in a turbo setup which needs 3" piping.
I don't know too much about turbo setups, but u gotta buy a lotta new parts if u decide to take that route. So if i were u now, i would save up for the turbo setup or if u want to buy a few aftermarket parts that u can use later...then i would puchase:
Type R cams, dual valve springs and retainers
Cam gears
Type r IM (i think this will fit on a gsr if it is bored out)
Bored out TB
Vafc
and maybe even a fpr
Remember to do ur homework...especially on a turbo setup. If u don't know what u want or what the hell ur doing, then turbo isn't for u. If u need a good article on turbo and other stuff, pm me.
Many ppl are misinformed about two things: Fuel pressure regulators, and ecu chipping.
A FPR is a TUNING device. Many ppl think that its a plain old part they bolt on and think they have achieved more hp. In fact, a fpr is used to gain the most optimal air/fuel ratio. Without dyno tuning and the fpr gauge its pointless. Your basically guessing ur air/fuel ratio which may result in a lean or rich a/f ratio.
The second thing ppl usually are confused about is ecu chipping. Now when ppl say they have a ecu chipped with the skunk2 or mugen, etc etc etc...programs they also tend to believe they upgraded the fuel system which results in more hp. They think that some "pshycic (spelling) company" has the ability to tell what type of aftermarket bolt ons u have and chip an ecu accordingly. What you should do is also get ur ecu chipped with a dyno, but with ur own specific program.
What i'm trying to say is that a part here or there may increase air or fuel flow, but getting the right a/f ratio will benefit u the most. And this can all be done with tuning on a dyno.
Cam gears, FPR, and ECU chipping should all be done to ur engines own specific needs and is substantial to any type of engine. I think ksr said that tuning is what got him in the 11's. For about $150-$500, you will see a whopping 10-20 + whp. Can any bolt on give u that constant power for that price?
Bored out TB is always good, and if ur friend can do it at a good price, then go for it.
OK, now if u plan on going turbo, then i wouldn't waste ur money on a exhaust, headers (like u mentioned) don't even waste it on a high flow cat cuz u will probably be upgrading to a 3" exhaust. U don't want any bottle necks in ur exhaust setup, this will only decrease flow. So by buying a high flow cat which is 2.25" in diameter now won't suite ur needs in a turbo setup which needs 3" piping.
I don't know too much about turbo setups, but u gotta buy a lotta new parts if u decide to take that route. So if i were u now, i would save up for the turbo setup or if u want to buy a few aftermarket parts that u can use later...then i would puchase:
Type R cams, dual valve springs and retainers
Cam gears
Type r IM (i think this will fit on a gsr if it is bored out)
Bored out TB
Vafc
and maybe even a fpr
Remember to do ur homework...especially on a turbo setup. If u don't know what u want or what the hell ur doing, then turbo isn't for u. If u need a good article on turbo and other stuff, pm me.
16-Mar-2003, 11:59 PM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,149
good setup for now woudl be a cai cam gears and a 2 1/4 exhaust with a type r muffler <---you can always sell that exhaust set up very easily and it's not ricey adn loud...and a vafc so you can tune your cam gears, fuel and vtec...plus a vafc will be good to use on a turbo set up so....
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