Installing Ignitor Help
#1
Installing Ignitor Help
Been having a few issues with my distributor. Mostly car is having trouble starting somtimes and the dreaded RPM fluctuating problem. Went on to Hond-Tech to check it out, and narrowed it down to the Ignitor being the problem. The engine is a B16A OBD1
Just wondering how eactly do you remove the ignitor? There are four spode connectors going into the Ignitor, but what else is holding it in? Don't want to break or remove something that doesn't need to be removed. Would I need to re-check my timing after installing a new Ignitor? Finally. if I am replacing the ignitor does it make sense to replace the ignition coil as well?
The Honda-Tech Thread is here
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1407869
Saw another post about the bouncing Tach.. but mine is a bit different... My problem started out as most others with the tach fluctuating underload. But now its starting to do it at idle or under load.
Just wondering how eactly do you remove the ignitor? There are four spode connectors going into the Ignitor, but what else is holding it in? Don't want to break or remove something that doesn't need to be removed. Would I need to re-check my timing after installing a new Ignitor? Finally. if I am replacing the ignitor does it make sense to replace the ignition coil as well?
The Honda-Tech Thread is here
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1407869
Saw another post about the bouncing Tach.. but mine is a bit different... My problem started out as most others with the tach fluctuating underload. But now its starting to do it at idle or under load.
#3
no
the ignitor is a small 1.5"x1.5" 1/4" thick metal backed plastic square(usually a beige/brown colour). it is held in by 2 screws and 3 wires its inside the distributor beside where the wires come out of the housing. i have had one go before on my b16a and i used an ignitor out of a b18a and it worked fine
the ignitor is a small 1.5"x1.5" 1/4" thick metal backed plastic square(usually a beige/brown colour). it is held in by 2 screws and 3 wires its inside the distributor beside where the wires come out of the housing. i have had one go before on my b16a and i used an ignitor out of a b18a and it worked fine
#5
Well I bought the ignitor for now. The car can still start but it shuts off after driving for a bit. And believe it or not I just bought a brand new distributor 6 months ago. Its not OEM .. so that just goes to show right there. The Ignitor was $80! if I were to buy the ignition coil too for the price I could just get a new distributor. Anyway I am praying that the ignitor is the problem.
#6
Going to answer all the questions I previously asked for future members when they search.
Yes the Ignition Coil is different then a Ignitor (Sometimes called Control Module) I had to remove the distributor in order to replace the ignitor then had to put the dizzy back on and needed a timing light.
Didn't have to replace my Ignition Coil, and there are usually two or three screws depening on the ignitor that holds it to the dizzy.
Good news is the Ignitor fixed all RPM fluctuations, and my car stalling while driving when it wasn't under load. My distributor was only 6 months old, so I am hoping it was just a faulty Ignitor.
Yes the Ignition Coil is different then a Ignitor (Sometimes called Control Module) I had to remove the distributor in order to replace the ignitor then had to put the dizzy back on and needed a timing light.
Didn't have to replace my Ignition Coil, and there are usually two or three screws depening on the ignitor that holds it to the dizzy.
Good news is the Ignitor fixed all RPM fluctuations, and my car stalling while driving when it wasn't under load. My distributor was only 6 months old, so I am hoping it was just a faulty Ignitor.
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